Chinook RV Forum

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PostPosted: October 31st, 2017, 9:03 pm 
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Joined: July 31st, 2014, 1:01 am
Posts: 1956
Location: 1999 Concourse
I've used the original jack (and long handle) to lift the front, no problem (and I'm not burly). It was tough on the back of a friend's E-450 (although that rig is quite a bit heavier on the rear axle). The same friend had no jack at all so bought a small hydraulic bottle jack (I want to say 6 ton?) and that was much easier on the rear. Downsides (to his particular one) were that it didn't have any sort of top fitted cradle and no super long handle (so you had to be slightly underneath... ugh).

I carry what I need to change a tire -- started that habit due to towing trailers which are more likely to need attention. But I also wanted to be able to change a tire on the Chinook. I have done both fronts (when I bought new rims). And helped buddy do all six on his E-450 when he was painting his rims.

I found that I need a 24" breaker bar to get the lugs loose (and even that is difficult if they are over-torqued, so now I try to do that myself to make sure they aren't - what is it with tire shops and massive over-tightening!?). I have an 18" torque wrench for re-tightening them, but that makes it tough (for me) to get all the way to spec. I can do it though. Friend has a 24" torque wrench which is much easier --- but my 18" one in its box fits perfectly under the shower floor (accessed from the "tire locker" on the rear). I also have a little kit of various tire lug sockets, plus an extension for the rears ('cause the dually wheels are so dished). I should get a pipe extension for the breaker bar...

Oh, and I also carry a socket (with the tire stuff) specifically for the fasteners that hold the spare to the spare holder (on my front mounted spare). They are not the same size as the lug nuts.

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PostPosted: October 31st, 2017, 10:49 pm 
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Joined: June 26th, 2017, 9:38 pm
Posts: 118
Location: Southern CA
So is the 3-ton bottle jack that comes with it good enough for the Chinook, or I should look into a 6 ton one like the one your friend uses?

I don't want to carry extra 3 tons of weight (6 ton - 3 tons = 3 tons) unless I have to. ;)

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PostPosted: October 31st, 2017, 11:18 pm 
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Joined: October 20th, 2015, 6:57 am
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Location: Northern NJ
I think it's a good idea to practice at home, lifting one rear side under the spring-axle attachment, and loosening one lug after removing the simulator cover, to see what tools you might be missing or wish to upgrade.

For example, Blue finding out his spare used a different socket! Or carrying a long helper pipe or getting a battery driven impact wrench or a better jack.

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PostPosted: November 1st, 2017, 6:05 am 
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Joined: June 26th, 2017, 9:38 pm
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Location: Southern CA
Nothing beat practice, I guess. My driveway is sloped. As long as I put a block behind each of the front wheels, I should be fine, I think. Just don't want it to pop the jack stand out due to the slope.

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PostPosted: November 1st, 2017, 7:05 am 
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Joined: February 17th, 2015, 1:57 pm
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Location: Marysville, WA
I carry a 5 ton bottle jack and electric impact wrench as well. I hope to never have to use them!

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PostPosted: November 1st, 2017, 11:00 am 
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Joined: October 12th, 2015, 5:54 am
Posts: 250
Location: Santa Cruz
The stock 3 ton will lift any of the Chinook's corners. However due to the short lever, it requires a bit of crawling around and quite a bit of force, especially when doing the rear. If you want to change a tire by yourself on the road, I think a full practice run is very wise. Fiddling with simulators and valve extension hoses can be fiddly; you don't want to be caught off guard or re-assemble incorrectly. Steel Ford wheel and stock size tire is 75 lbs., so just getting the spare off the mount can be a bit of a feat for some. You generally do not want to jack a rig unless it's dead nuts level. I use combination jacks; they're great for the added convenience and safety, plus they're faster since you only need one contact point (instead of a jacking location then a jack stand). For a mobile tire-changing arsenal, I'd want a 2 foot breaker, an extension (I think mine is 6"), an impact rated socket, a jack that you can operate comfortably, and a pair of thick gloves. I always have a drill, which can really speed things up.

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PostPosted: November 1st, 2017, 1:33 pm 
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Joined: June 26th, 2017, 9:38 pm
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Location: Southern CA
I guess I can park the rig sideway in front of the garage, so that the slope is side to side. I will still put a choke on the wheels. For changing tires, I just need to jack up enough to get the tire off the surface, but I am going to work on the suspension (Moryde) so I need more clearance. Sounds good, or there is a bet on if my wife will collect my insurance?

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PostPosted: November 1st, 2017, 9:11 pm 
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Joined: July 31st, 2014, 1:01 am
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Location: 1999 Concourse
Just to clarify on my spare: I have a Draw Tite "spare holder" that goes into the front hitch on my rig (then the tire attaches to it). It comes with three carriage bolts/nuts to hold the spare to the holder, and those are not the same size as the Ford lug nuts. I can't remember any more what the situation is with the normal spare holder on the rear (I still have mine, but it's in storage).

Since I had to install the spare to the holder in the first place, I had plenty of advance warning. And it's not an odd size (but I still carry a socket for that in with my tire changing tools so I don't have to dig through my other toolbox).

Also, I agree that the stock Ford jack will lift all four corners of the rig (one at a time of course). It's just more work on the rear since it's heavier. Since it's a screw jack it has a looong handle, which is nice for not having to be underneath.

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PostPosted: November 2nd, 2017, 6:06 am 
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Joined: June 26th, 2017, 9:38 pm
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Location: Southern CA
The one that mine came with is a bottle jack (hydraulic), not a screw jack. I heard people sometimes put a jack under the differential, and jack the entire back end up. Will the stock jack be able to lift up the back end that way, or it need to be a larger capacity one? Is it a good idea to jack up the rig that way so that you can put the two jack stand under then rig at the same time?

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PostPosted: November 2nd, 2017, 9:47 am 
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Joined: October 12th, 2015, 5:54 am
Posts: 250
Location: Santa Cruz
Mine came with a generic hydraulic bottle jack and a two piece lever about 18 inches long. I didn't ask the original owner if it was the stock jack. Guessing not.

I've seen many folks use the pumpkin as a jacking point under light trucks (using a floor jack), but I suggest against it for your Chinook, especially with a bottle jack. The Dana 70 is quite stout, but that location was not designed to support 5000+ lbs.

As Kevin said, align the jack under/near the leaf spring, then the jack stand right next to it.

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