Chrome lug nut removal

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Skillet
Posts: 495
Joined: March 22nd, 2015, 7:45 am
Location: Northern Virginia

Chrome lug nut removal

Post by Skillet »

Attached is a pic of one of my tires. The stem extender holder has come loose from being attached to the underside of the lug nut. Been that way since I got it in March and I keep forgetting to address it. Today I went looking for a tire iron to loosen it up so I can slide it back under. Turns out I only have a standard iron onboard. Am I missing something or do I just need to purchase a larger diameter tire iron to remove it? The compartment I found the tire changing tools is located behind the spare tire.
The picture is not of the tire in question, but of how it's supposed to be attached.
Attachments
Chinook Tire.jpg
'02 Concourse where there's always a project going on...
Manitou
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Re: Chrome lug nut removal

Post by Manitou »

Isn't all that just some sort of cover? The "wheel simulator" they call it(?).
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Blue~Go
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Joined: July 31st, 2014, 1:01 am
Location: 1999 Concourse

Re: Chrome lug nut removal

Post by Blue~Go »

Hi Skillet,

As Manitou said, what you have there is the KII brand "simulator." This is what they call the hubcaps on a dually (I guess). I have the exact same ones. They are stainless steel, and the wheel beneath is steel. So, most of those lug nuts are fake (don't twist them!). Two of them (across from each other) will have a little crosswise dimple shaped a bit like a Twinkie near the base (hex) part. Those are the real ones. You remove those and then the simulator comes off and under that are the real lug nuts and the steel wheel.

I think that supposedly, you take the stainless cap off of the two "real" simulator nuts (there is a T-shaped tool you may have with a sort of socket on one end), and then remove the simulator nut that is under it. But, most everyone I have seen or talked to just (carefully) takes the stainless cap and the simulator nut together with a 1-1/16" socket.

There are a couple of different ways that the two (non-fake) simulator nuts connect to the actual lug nuts, but it's fairly obvious once the simulator is off. So, to recap:

1) Two of the stainless "lug nuts" on the stainless simulator (hubcap) are "real" and the rest are completely fake. Don't turn any of the fake ones or they can break right off (then it is new simulator time...).

2) The two "real" stainless simulator nuts have oblong ridges on them (near the base) and are roughly across from each other (the fake simulator nuts don't have the ridges). Those can be removed with a 1-1/6" socket (or you can take the chrome cap off, I think, and then the simulator nut, but I have done them together with the socket).

3) Once you get those two ridged nuts off, you can remove the simulator and then see what is on the outside of the real actual wheel lug nut (maybe something with a hex key hole) that the simulator hooks onto. I think these can vary by year.

4) Now you are down to the actual real steel Ford (nut and washer together) lug nuts. Finally! IIRC they are 7/8" (but double check on that).

I take the simulators off myself beforehand if going to a tire shop (and then put them back on after I get the rig back). I've read too many accounts of employees using the impact gun on the simulator nuts (the fake fake ones) and tearing them off. Plus it drives me NUTS when they lay the front ones down chrome side down, use them for lug nut "dishes" and then kick them along the floor (scraaaaatch). :x

PS: I ditched those aggravating valve stem extenders (ugh, ugh!) that came on the Chinook and instead had extended valve stems put on. These are one-piece brass tubes (hence extended stems vs. stem extenders), custom bent so that they come out where you can reach them (ahhhh) (on all SIX wheels). The ones I have are made by "Tireman," but I believe Borg makes similar ones. Checking and adding air is a joy in comparison to the original ones, and from what I have read, they are also much more reliable. I've had mine for just over a year and have no complaints. Hardly ever need to add air, but checking and adding air are both a breeze.
1999 Concourse
Skillet
Posts: 495
Joined: March 22nd, 2015, 7:45 am
Location: Northern Virginia

Re: Chrome lug nut removal

Post by Skillet »

Learning something new everyday... Ok, I'll look for what was described tomorrow. Maybe I can just shove the bracket back under where it should go then, unless they are going under the "removable" lug nuts to begin with. Thanks for the heads-up!
'02 Concourse where there's always a project going on...
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Blue~Go
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Re: Chrome lug nut removal

Post by Blue~Go »

I was just looking for something else, and ran across these photos. They're from before I had the Tireman extenders put on.

This is one of the front simulators off - with holes where the two "real/fake" lug nuts are, and then the "fake/fake" ones still in place (which never come off, unless someone does something wrong).
front simulator off.jpg
And the wheel and "real/real" Ford lug nuts underneath (rear this time).
Wheel under simulator.jpg
What I can't remember at the moment is what goes on the Ford lug nuts to hold the simulator on via the two "real/fake" simulator nuts. Reason is that I just helped a buddy with his 2003 (which has little threaded inserts that go in via hex wrenches), and I can't remember if mine has those or some other arrangement. You sound like the type of person who will figure it out (but then I figure it's nice to have data in the thread for future/others too).
1999 Concourse
Skillet
Posts: 495
Joined: March 22nd, 2015, 7:45 am
Location: Northern Virginia

Re: Chrome lug nut removal

Post by Skillet »

Easily fixed my problem. I didn't see any indentations but the two were obvious because they weren't seated down all the way like the fake ones are. Since my ratchet set didn't quite go up to that size, I used a pair of RoboGrip Pliers to remove the bolt and get it all situated before I tightened it down. 5 minutes tops. It was getting a little too hot to experiment and take the whole thing off so that's all I did. Thanks for all the help.
'02 Concourse where there's always a project going on...
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Blue~Go
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Re: Chrome lug nut removal

Post by Blue~Go »

Sweet! Glad to hear it went so easily (especially in the heat).
1999 Concourse
kyidletime
Posts: 154
Joined: September 8th, 2015, 4:02 pm

Re: Chrome lug nut removal

Post by kyidletime »

Does anyone know where you can get a replacement nut, the one that holds the simulator on? My rig has one missing.
Alan Croy
Hamilton, Ohio
1995 Chinook Concourse
Upgraded Converter/Charger System.
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Blue~Go
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Joined: July 31st, 2014, 1:01 am
Location: 1999 Concourse

Re: Chrome lug nut removal

Post by Blue~Go »

I think they may be the ones on this page, but if not, you can see the "main" url of the company (www.kaper2.com) to get a part number.

http://www.kaper2.com/products%20page/s ... 201211.jpg
1999 Concourse
jlarry214
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Joined: September 27th, 2015, 10:09 am
Location: EAST TEXAS

Re: Chrome lug nut removal

Post by jlarry214 »

Here is where I gt mine for our1999 Concourse.

http://dicorproducts.com/Wheel-Parts-Finder/

Larry
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