Suburban NT-16-S furnace problem,

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Blue~Go
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Re: Suburban NT-16-S furnace problem,

Post by Blue~Go »

kdarling wrote: ...and at least in my model, the air intake is behind the front passenger seat, and can be covered by the bottom of the curtain. (At least, I assume that's the fan intake.)
Just a minor difference, but I believe that is the cold air return. Not that the fan won't use that air, but just to put it in "furnace terms" in case that helps anyone. On my '99 club chair layout it's a metal grille on the forward edge of the seat base, so sounds like the same location.

kyidletime: Always nice to get other things done so one can get to.... wiring! :mrgreen:
1999 Concourse
kyidletime
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Re: Suburban NT-16-S furnace problem,

Post by kyidletime »

You're exactly right Blue, cold air return is indeed the correct terminology.
Alan Croy
Hamilton, Ohio
1995 Chinook Concourse
Upgraded Converter/Charger System.
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kdarling
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Re: Suburban NT-16-S furnace problem,

Post by kdarling »

Hey Alan, or anyone else...

My dinette furnace won't light. I do have a spare new Dinosaur control / igniter board that came with the rig.

I know that you actually pulled your furnace to fix it, and I know that's SOP.

My question is, do you think there's any way to replace the board with the furnace still in place? Perhaps loosened at its front?

Thanks! Looking for an easier way out here :D

Kev
1994 Concourse dinette, Ford 7.5L (460 V8)
b6fischer
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Re: Suburban NT-16-S furnace problem,

Post by b6fischer »

I had the same issue, fan cycle, ignition, burner lighting, then going out after 3 seconds to as long as a couple minutes.

Trouble shooting guide states first check board and second gas valve. In my case it's the LP tank regulator.With all my research and reading online about RV life, somehow I missed the RV regulator maintenance item.

Two things come to mind:
1. Change your tank regulator every few years as the rubber diaphram does go bad and they only cost $30. Many carry a spare.
2. When you have a gas appliance issue, you can make sure you have adequate lp flow by lighting all the stove burners and seeing if they will run on high for a period of time.

Now, back to trying to remove the stuck nut holding my reguator to the tank valve.

Cheers,
Bill
1997 Chinook Concourse, over 200,000 Miles
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Blue~Go
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Re: Suburban NT-16-S furnace problem,

Post by Blue~Go »

That's a good point on the regulator.

You can also check the system with a manometer (obviously your method is a good one too because you don't need a tool).

A note for buying a spare regulator: They come with the relief port oriented either horizontally or vertically (it's kind of like a little horn). Ours are horizontal since the regulator is installed lying on its side.
1999 Concourse
b6fischer
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Re: Suburban NT-16-S furnace problem,

Post by b6fischer »

Blue~Go wrote: You can also check the system with a manometer (obviously your method is a good one too because you don't need a tool).
Now where did I store that manometer...? :roll: :?:
1997 Chinook Concourse, over 200,000 Miles
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Blue~Go
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Re: Suburban NT-16-S furnace problem,

Post by Blue~Go »

I know, I know, who carries one? I have to laugh because I have this friend who is a sucker for every new tool. But then he often "hands down" the old one to me. Hence, I have a manometer (and he has a better manometer :D ).
1999 Concourse
chin_k
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Re: Suburban NT-16-S furnace problem,

Post by chin_k »

I never use a man-o-meter since I got married. It probably will read zero nowadays. ;)
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
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