New to Chinook

[pdemarest]

Thanks for the input, Blu. My rig has an aftermarket sway bar but I don't know the brand as I haven't checked under it and the rig is now at the upholstery shop having the springs cut out of the jack knife sofa so that the cushions can rest on a flat plywood surface and be stuffed with a layered memory foam to make it more useable as a bed. I'm checking it when it gets back but in the meantime I will quietly shop for an E-450 sway bar. Thanks!

[pdemarest]

One more question: What are model numbers for those Koni adjustable shocks? the Ford E450 sway bar?

[Blue~Go]

I don't have a model/part number for the swaybar. Reason is I bought it from a junkyard. Not that I have anything against new, but at the time it was an experiment (and also it's not like they wear out; I did get new bushings however). I used car-part.com and looked for one that wasn't more than a few states away ('cause I was staying in the parking lot of the suspension shop until it arrived). I did call places to confirm vs. just ordering through car-part because it has to be a dually bar (some were listed confusingly). It was something like $65 shipped (so a nice price). I can't remember how much the new bushings were, but it was nothing remarkable or I would remember.

Here's what I have in my notes on the Roadmaster bars, but of course double check before ordering anything. I got my front Roadmaster bar as I was getting the new front end, so it's the '09-and-up one vs. the other one for pre-'09. The rear one is the one I ended up not using in favor of the E-450 bar.

Roadmaster bars:
1139-115 for 1992-2008 front
1139- 176 for 2009 and up front
1139-117 for 1975 and up rear

The Koni adjustable shocks... I can't put my hands on the part number right now. I didn't order them as they had them already at the suspension shop, and were willing to let me try various combinations. They are red for what that's worth. I did have the Koni FSD (gold) on all four corners, but since I was trying to cure the new harshness (but keep the goodness of the beefier sway bars), I went with the adjustables at that time on the rear. Possibly it would have been fine with the FSD (I did drive with both) given that I went "down" to the E-450 rear bar from the Roadmaster rear bar; but as I was a big gunshy at that point (and let's face it, even a long test drive isn't the same as a few months' experience), I decided I wanted the potential adjustability. So what I'm saying is that the FSD on all four corners might be fine (if you can't get the adustables - not sure if they still make those specific ones).


My notes say I bought Koni FSD are part numbers 8805-1042 for the front, and 8805-1043 for the rear.

So to re-cap, here was my progression:

1) Stock configuration, rear leaf springs (no More-Ryde), original shocks, 49,000 miles. Nothing hideous in the handling, but it did feel like it constantly wanted to "fall off a giant ball" into one of the corners. Put on the Koni FSD shocks and that was much improved. But I knew I still wanted it to be more "fun."

2) New 2014 front end (mostly for brakes, but there are some slight Ford suspension improvements starting in 2009). Also added Roadmaster bars front and rear. This resulted in great handling, but a horrible harsh shudder in the rear going over any bumps at all (pebbles, etc.). Removed the rear bar and that went away (but so did the goodness it added). Removed the front Roadmaster bar and that didn't change it. So I left that visit with the front Roadmaster bar, the new front end, and the stock rear bar (I think there was a stock rear bar.... I forget now! Anyway the Roadmaster rear bar was off and the harsh shudder was gone. I knew I was on the way to another suspension shop to continue the mods so I was content to sort it out there (I only did the bars at this stop since they had the front end off anyway so it made sense).

3) Long test drive at RV suspension specialist. They actually gave it high marks, but I still wanted to do a few things. I did a Safe-T-Steer, and experimented further with the rear bars and rear shocks. That's when I went to the E-450 rear bar, because it's a "middle ground" size. This proved to be the best compromise, giving me most of the goodness of the Roadmaster rear bar, but not the added harshness. I kept the Roadmaster front bar. I also switched from the Koni FSD shocks in the rear to the Koni adjustable, but I'm not sure that was completely necessary. I did not consider a panhard rod (Track bar) because the rig exhibits no symptoms of "rear wheel steer" (but it's something that some motorhomes do add).

I felt the Safe-T-Steer that was supposed to go on our rigs was a bit stiff. In other words, it made the rig track like an arrow on the freeway (steering wise), but it was a chore to drive in town or on curvy roads as a result. I went with a lighter version (I think made for a Toyota Dolphin - it's orange). I would prefer something right in the middle but they don't make one.

Other options for the rear suspension were as follows:

1) Full air. They had done this to one Chinook, but I felt I had things reasonably dialed in, and I had spent my budget for that session already on other mods.

2) Parabolic rear springs. Apparently they replace the leafs on ambulances with these to help with the known harshness issue. Same reason as above for me not doing it.

3) More-Ryde or Sulastic shackles. I think these are somewhat similar in that they make a softer connection between the leaf springs and the rig. I wanted to try the Sulastic shackles but their website was somewhat confusing and I can't remember the other details but basically there wasn't a good way for me to get them in a reasonable time frame (and it wasn't clear which model I should get). So that got back-burnered. I still think they would be interesting to try.

This was all done in late 2014 and I've been happy enough with it since then to not do anything additional. Not planning on buying another Chinook, but if I did I'd do the same things to the new one, but maybe try the shackles too. With the sway bars upgraded, cornering is much more fun, and it's also better for not "whanging" the living room from side to side when going off something like an apron at an angle (where one rear wheel goes off first, then the other one); much more controlled there.

[pdemarest]

Thanks, Blue. I'm also considering those scholastic shackles in addition to changing the rear sway bar. I'm curious about these front end swaps for later models of the E-series vans. Which steering and suspension components are changed when you go to sway front ends with a later model? Cost? I'm okay with how my 2003 steers but then I'm comparing it to a 1987 Ford E-150 van conversion that I used to own where I had to constantly steer to keep it in a straight line - even after alignment. Would I see any difference in my 2003 Premier if I went to a 2008 front end?

[FatBuoy]

Again, replying to an old thread, as to not clog up the system. This one had a ton of good info, and seemed relevant to a newbie conducting research.

Opinions: I know the answer is probably, "It all depends on the condition of each", but would you rather have an older unit with lower miles or a newer one with higher miles, cost and condition being similar. Example would be a 2000 with 80k miles as compared to an 04 with 140k miles. I guess what I'm asking is, do the updates to models as they matured have enough benefits to warrant grabbing one with higher miles? Yes, would love a later model with low miles, but not sure my pocketbook will accommodate.

[caconcourse]

Again, replying to an old thread, as to not clog up the system. This one had a ton of good info, and seemed relevant to a newbie conducting research.

Opinions: I know the answer is probably, "It all depends on the condition of each", but would you rather have an older unit with lower miles or a newer one with higher miles, cost and condition being similar. Example would be a 2000 with 80k miles as compared to an 04 with 140k miles. I guess what I'm asking is, do the updates to models as they matured have enough benefits to warrant grabbing one with higher miles? Yes, would love a later model with low miles, but not sure my pocketbook will accommodate.

I will offer my personal opinion on this one. I have a 2001, which had 56000 miles when I purchased 5 years ago. So an equivalent age buying today would be 2006, which doesn't exist, since they stopped making them in 2005. We have driven about 58000 miles, so effectively doubling the mileage, but the engine has been fantastically reliable, and it seems to be still going strong.

There were a couple of improvements added in the 2000-2001 models era I like in particular: one was consolidating all of the hookup connections into one door, and the second is the Corian counters with smooth solid sink and stove covers. The rear step was changed to an electric "Kwikee" step that seems to be more problematic than the manually folded step in prior models. I don't know of any other significant changes after the 2001 model. I do like the new paint job (I have stripes) but that is a matter of personal preference and won't affect your camping experience.

So personally I would emphasize low mileage over model year after 2001 models, because you have more miles to go before engine/transmission worries. I have already decided however, if the engine or tranny goes, I would put in a new engine/tranny and keep going, because I love everything in this vehicle as it is. All of the cabin components (AC, fridge, water heater, furnace, entertainment, etc) are serviceable or replaceable. The worst damage to the cabin I have seen on-line was due to rodent damage. Water damage is also fairly common, but I have stopped the leaks and repaired a lot of the woodwork, replacing damaged MDF near the floor with solid oak scraps.

Another important criteria is the layout. I have a club lounge, which I am so grateful for, since it seems so much less crowded than the dinette. But we are good sleepers and are Ok with sleeping on the jackknife sofa. Many are not, and a larger bed or twin sofas is more desirable for them. But it is not easy to change from one layout to the other, so it would be worth holding out for the layout you want.

[FatBuoy]

Great info, thanks! So, I'll focus on mileage and condition rather than year. Is it 2000, or 2001, that had the changes? Or perhaps there were changes in both years?

Another question for the group- towing. Can you not tow with the massive step in the back? Is there a workaround? I'm going to be towing around 3500 lbs. I have a trailer with 4-seat RZR, and sometimes a pontoon boat. Or are some capable of towing and some not?

[caconcourse]

Great info, thanks! So, I'll focus on mileage and condition rather than year. Is it 2000, or 2001, that had the changes? Or perhaps there were changes in both years?

Another question for the group- towing. Can you not tow with the massive step in the back? Is there a workaround? I'm going to be towing around 3500 lbs. I have a trailer with 4-seat RZR, and sometimes a pontoon boat. Or are some capable of towing and some not?

There were some model year 2000 that have the changes and some that don't. Probably depends on when they were made during the cycle. I think all 2001 models and beyond do.

As far as I know, all Chinooks can tow. There is a two-inch receiver, and people use an extender to get through the steps.

[deppstein]

FatBuoy--welcome.
I agree with Clay and your conclusion to focus on mileage and condition. I lucked out with a 2004 Premier that I bought in 2012 with 16,000 miles on it. Now at 90K and going strong. Brakes and shocks and tires have been the major chassis items. And I did have to replace a transmission--but that was my fault (carrying electric bikes with covers on a front mounted rack interfered with air flow that caused trans cooler to overheat--engineered a fix by re-mounting bikes so that covers were on outside away from grill...but blocking headlights so had to install high plow lights...works great!) Thanks to advice on this forum, I installed a Scan Gauge II to monitor trans temp--no more issues.
Other significant items that you might expect to replace at some point are the original converter/charger (not smart at all), and perhaps the water pump (pretty easy to do yourself). Probably want to transition to LED lighting as well (also simple plug-in replacements available). Solar...worth considering if you plan on boon docking without power and there are a couple of ways to go--roof, or suitcase. Both have their advantages, just depends on your preference and user parameters.
Regarding towing...yes, seems that all Chinooks have a tow hitch and harness for lights included in basic package. You will need to purchase an 18" extension (Reese Towpower 11004 hitch box extension is what I got)...had to have it grinded down slightly to fit the 2" receiver, but then it works fine...does not interfere with my electric step operation, as it goes in above the descending step.
As you have found out already, this forum is a fantastic resource. One stop Chinook Info Center.
Safe Travels.
David

[FatBuoy]

You guys are great!

I'm going to look at a local one today. 2000 Concourse for $32k. 67k miles. Seems a bit high, but everything is negotiable.

There are different models/packages that are hard to find info on, so a couple more for ya.

The Cascade- 24ft- I saw somewhere that this model was less expensive than the Glacier because of the lack of slide-out, rectangular windows, and that it has less expensive appointments. Other than the slide, any idea of where they cut corners to keep the price down? It has the Chevy 8.1 instead of the Ford V10. Just thinking that maybe the interior had cheaper materials. I found one of those with 32k miles for only $32k.

I also see Councourse XL21. Is there a difference between XL and non-XL, or are they all XLs, and they are just not referencing it on some?

And lastly, I see Councourse Premier. Any idea what that has over non-Premier?

Would LOVE the Baja, but that seems like a Unicorn!