Devil’s Highway to the Arizona Alps
Posted: June 14th, 2017, 3:47 pm
This may sound incongruous, but Arizona lays claim to their own Alps, with Alpine at just over 8,000’ presuming to be the gateway. Beyond this small villa you come to Eager, Springerville then Show Low on the Mogollon Rim where sunbirds from Phoenix congregate in hordes during the Summer.
Our favorite mountain drive is AZ Route 191 or the Coronado Trail Scenic Byway from Clifton to Alpine. Prior to 1993 this used to be Route 666 or the Devil’s Highway. It is famous as one of the best sport motorcycle rides in the States. RV-ers may think of it as the Devil’s Highway for another reason, namely 427 sharp curves and steep grades along the 100 mile section north from Morenci. The preferred big-rig route is by the more gentle Route 180 across the border in New Mexico.
However, since our Chinook is an SURV or Sport Utility RV thanks to nimble handling we enjoy the more scenic and often challenging byways. The route starts in earnest from Morenci, home to Freeport-McMoRan’s largest open-pit and acid leaching mining operation in Arizona. Sometimes 191 is closed briefly for blasting operations when all cell phones must be turned off. This alien moonscape is quite a contrast to the alpine meadows and pine forests beyond yet fascinating in its own right.
We started out confident our rig had been well sorted out and indeed the performance was flawless. But, like the game whack-a-mole another problem surfaced! This time the Fan-Tastic Vent Fan lid was sucked open by turbulence and my rooftop inspection revealed a stripped gear on the elevator arm. Fortunately I had just added Gorilla tape to my extensive toolbox consisting of vise grips and hammer so could temporarily secure the lid shut.
We stopped for lunch next to 191 at the Sheep Wash Ecosystem information area in complete solitude. Next up was the beautiful Hannagan Meadow then Alpine, where we left 191 to head east on 180 for an overnight at Luna Lake. We were lucky to get an open site as the next few days through the weekend were booked solid for a local festival and Father’s day.
The night was unusually cold and I was glad our furnace had been restored to operation with a new thermostat. Early next morning we treated our eager puppy to delightful aromas hikng around the pristine lake before continuing the drive into New Mexico and an incredible lunch at the Adobe Cafe & Bakery near Reserve. This isolated cafe is a true gem and I indulged in an elk burger while my wife enjoyed the vegetarian omelette special of the day. Afterwards I couldn’t resist the Key lime pie, made with real Key limes no less!
Our two-day loop covered a mere 460 miles but was packed with variety and interest. The Chinook is champing at the bit for more but needs to be patient while a suitable replacement Fan-Tastic vent is sourced.
Our favorite mountain drive is AZ Route 191 or the Coronado Trail Scenic Byway from Clifton to Alpine. Prior to 1993 this used to be Route 666 or the Devil’s Highway. It is famous as one of the best sport motorcycle rides in the States. RV-ers may think of it as the Devil’s Highway for another reason, namely 427 sharp curves and steep grades along the 100 mile section north from Morenci. The preferred big-rig route is by the more gentle Route 180 across the border in New Mexico.
However, since our Chinook is an SURV or Sport Utility RV thanks to nimble handling we enjoy the more scenic and often challenging byways. The route starts in earnest from Morenci, home to Freeport-McMoRan’s largest open-pit and acid leaching mining operation in Arizona. Sometimes 191 is closed briefly for blasting operations when all cell phones must be turned off. This alien moonscape is quite a contrast to the alpine meadows and pine forests beyond yet fascinating in its own right.
We started out confident our rig had been well sorted out and indeed the performance was flawless. But, like the game whack-a-mole another problem surfaced! This time the Fan-Tastic Vent Fan lid was sucked open by turbulence and my rooftop inspection revealed a stripped gear on the elevator arm. Fortunately I had just added Gorilla tape to my extensive toolbox consisting of vise grips and hammer so could temporarily secure the lid shut.
We stopped for lunch next to 191 at the Sheep Wash Ecosystem information area in complete solitude. Next up was the beautiful Hannagan Meadow then Alpine, where we left 191 to head east on 180 for an overnight at Luna Lake. We were lucky to get an open site as the next few days through the weekend were booked solid for a local festival and Father’s day.
The night was unusually cold and I was glad our furnace had been restored to operation with a new thermostat. Early next morning we treated our eager puppy to delightful aromas hikng around the pristine lake before continuing the drive into New Mexico and an incredible lunch at the Adobe Cafe & Bakery near Reserve. This isolated cafe is a true gem and I indulged in an elk burger while my wife enjoyed the vegetarian omelette special of the day. Afterwards I couldn’t resist the Key lime pie, made with real Key limes no less!
Our two-day loop covered a mere 460 miles but was packed with variety and interest. The Chinook is champing at the bit for more but needs to be patient while a suitable replacement Fan-Tastic vent is sourced.