steering stabalizer question
steering stabalizer question
1998 concourse...40,000 miles. Just bought it 2 weeks ago. Everything seems fine just have a touch of "bump steer". Got me thinking about upgrading with a good steering stabilizer. Any suggestions? I honestly don't even know if it has a factory installed stabilizer or not. Does anyone know? I also am thinking of upgrading to ceramic front brake pads. Any feedback on upgrading front brakes?
1998 Concourse V-10 Triton....AKA...Land Shark
-
Chinookers
- **Forum Contributor**
- Posts: 73
- Joined: August 3rd, 2014, 3:05 pm
- Contact:
Re: steering stabalizer question
Re brake upgrade ...
With my rig normally loaded for travel it's right on E350 GVWR. As such I always felt the brakes were under-powered in my 2003 Premier.
Last September my brakes burnt out due to a bad caliper. Rather than just getting a regular brake job with standard Ford parts I decided to upgrade both front and back brakes to Powerstop cross drilled and slotted rotors, high performance pads, and new calipers. I'm pleased with the result. I'm much more confident when the freeway suddenly stops and I have to stomp on the brakes, or when I'm going down a long steep mountain road.
With my rig normally loaded for travel it's right on E350 GVWR. As such I always felt the brakes were under-powered in my 2003 Premier.
Last September my brakes burnt out due to a bad caliper. Rather than just getting a regular brake job with standard Ford parts I decided to upgrade both front and back brakes to Powerstop cross drilled and slotted rotors, high performance pads, and new calipers. I'm pleased with the result. I'm much more confident when the freeway suddenly stops and I have to stomp on the brakes, or when I'm going down a long steep mountain road.
Re: steering stabalizer question
Hi, Flame. When you say "bump steer", do you mean that the steering wheel sometimes jumps a bit one way or the other when you hit bumps?
If so, I went through a terrible time when I got mine and it did that, sometimes in a very scary fashion on the highway, until I finally found a really good suspension/steering specialist. He took one test drive and told me that one or more of my ball joints were sticking a bit. I had already had them replaced, except the first shop had only replaced the lower ball joints, saying the upper were fine and they would "save" me some money. They were wrong, and I spent huge amounts of time and money before this guy went and replaced the upper, and matching lower (not strictly necessary to do it again, but a good idea that they were all identical new parts from the same manufacturer). Steering was no longer jumping after that.
I did still have loose steering, where there was nearly 2" of play in the steering wheel. I was told, again by multiple shops (including the suspension guy that fixed the ball joints), that it was driving normal for a Ford van chassis. Had to have things 'tightened' a couple more times over the next few years, as the steering would loosen up after a year or two. After 4 years living with this, I completely lost steering one day (turn wheel, tires do nothing). Found that the pitman arm teeth had been grinding down over time, as repair manuals say can happen. With a new pitman arm and gearbox, I now finally have the stable, tight, car-like, driving feel that others have talked about. Maybe 1/2" of play in the steering wheel, just like my car.
Just a precautionary tale, as I had bought a steering stabilizer, and heavy anti-sway bars, and all that was doing was mostly trying to compensate for the real issues of sticking ball joints, and worn teeth between gearbox and pitman arm.
Good luck,
Bob
If so, I went through a terrible time when I got mine and it did that, sometimes in a very scary fashion on the highway, until I finally found a really good suspension/steering specialist. He took one test drive and told me that one or more of my ball joints were sticking a bit. I had already had them replaced, except the first shop had only replaced the lower ball joints, saying the upper were fine and they would "save" me some money. They were wrong, and I spent huge amounts of time and money before this guy went and replaced the upper, and matching lower (not strictly necessary to do it again, but a good idea that they were all identical new parts from the same manufacturer). Steering was no longer jumping after that.
I did still have loose steering, where there was nearly 2" of play in the steering wheel. I was told, again by multiple shops (including the suspension guy that fixed the ball joints), that it was driving normal for a Ford van chassis. Had to have things 'tightened' a couple more times over the next few years, as the steering would loosen up after a year or two. After 4 years living with this, I completely lost steering one day (turn wheel, tires do nothing). Found that the pitman arm teeth had been grinding down over time, as repair manuals say can happen. With a new pitman arm and gearbox, I now finally have the stable, tight, car-like, driving feel that others have talked about. Maybe 1/2" of play in the steering wheel, just like my car.
Just a precautionary tale, as I had bought a steering stabilizer, and heavy anti-sway bars, and all that was doing was mostly trying to compensate for the real issues of sticking ball joints, and worn teeth between gearbox and pitman arm.
Good luck,
Bob
Re: steering stabalizer question
As mentioned, I'm not sure a steering stabilizer is the thing to cure bump steer. I test drove a Ford van that had that and it was not fun (didn't buy it though, so never had to solve the problem).
That said, I have a Safe-T-Steer and it seems like a good unit. It replaced the leaking stock Ford one and looks kind of like a sideways shock absorber in the front suspension area (as did the Ford one).
I'd describe the effect as making it a little bit harder to steer. That's nice on the freeway, but more of a chore in town or on curvy back roads (at either extreme). I didn't really "need" one and found that the recommended size one did just that: Made it nicer on the freeway but made it a real chore to drive around town or do a curvy back highway. Boo! But the shop had a smaller (in force) one that was meant for a Toyota Dolphin, IIRC, and that seemed like a better match. I wish there had been on in between but they didn't make one at that time. It's also supposed to hold things a bit steadier if you have a blowout.
As far as brakes go, another option is to install the Ford brakes that went on vans 2009 (maybe 2008?) and newer. They are much larger. I got a set as part of a complete new-take-off 2014 front end (which has a lot of beefed up parts), but it was the brakes I was really after and they have not disappointed - they're night and day to the original pre-2008 brakes. What a difference!
Since not everyone could zip up to the place that had the take-off front ends (and since they may not be plentiful anymore anyway), some have just ordered the new brake parts from Ford and done just the brakes. Basically glowing reports similar to mine. So that's another option. I agree the stock pre-late-2000's E-350 is under-braked even with everything in tip-top condition. I was shocked coming from an E-250 van to my Chinook (even with brakes in great condition). Well, they were trying to stop an extra 3,500# on the same brakes, so....
That said, I have a Safe-T-Steer and it seems like a good unit. It replaced the leaking stock Ford one and looks kind of like a sideways shock absorber in the front suspension area (as did the Ford one).
I'd describe the effect as making it a little bit harder to steer. That's nice on the freeway, but more of a chore in town or on curvy back roads (at either extreme). I didn't really "need" one and found that the recommended size one did just that: Made it nicer on the freeway but made it a real chore to drive around town or do a curvy back highway. Boo! But the shop had a smaller (in force) one that was meant for a Toyota Dolphin, IIRC, and that seemed like a better match. I wish there had been on in between but they didn't make one at that time. It's also supposed to hold things a bit steadier if you have a blowout.
As far as brakes go, another option is to install the Ford brakes that went on vans 2009 (maybe 2008?) and newer. They are much larger. I got a set as part of a complete new-take-off 2014 front end (which has a lot of beefed up parts), but it was the brakes I was really after and they have not disappointed - they're night and day to the original pre-2008 brakes. What a difference!
Since not everyone could zip up to the place that had the take-off front ends (and since they may not be plentiful anymore anyway), some have just ordered the new brake parts from Ford and done just the brakes. Basically glowing reports similar to mine. So that's another option. I agree the stock pre-late-2000's E-350 is under-braked even with everything in tip-top condition. I was shocked coming from an E-250 van to my Chinook (even with brakes in great condition). Well, they were trying to stop an extra 3,500# on the same brakes, so....
1999 Concourse
Re: steering stabalizer question
Bob, Can I assume you have a chevy chassis since you spoke of ball joints? Mine is a Ford E-350 chassis with a v-10 engine. I have twin I-Beam suspension.I will look into pittman arm situation though. Thanks so much everyone. I will get a closer look at my stabilizer arm too.
1998 Concourse V-10 Triton....AKA...Land Shark
Re: steering stabalizer question
Flame, I have a Concourse 2000 on a Ford E-350 chassis (presumably 1999) with Triton v10 engine.
It has a pair of upper and lower ball joints on each side in the front. I'm not so great with cars, but I'm under the impression that almost all vehicles have ball joints, as the go-between connecting the control arms to the steering knuckles? Though I think cars with MacPherson struts might have only a lower ball joint on each side.
Anyway, replacing them was not cheap - $183.90 for each side, just for the parts, and then some 3 hours labor (this guy in Minneapolis was great, he let me hang with him to one side out of his way, and talk and watch everything he did, was a great learning experience).
It has a pair of upper and lower ball joints on each side in the front. I'm not so great with cars, but I'm under the impression that almost all vehicles have ball joints, as the go-between connecting the control arms to the steering knuckles? Though I think cars with MacPherson struts might have only a lower ball joint on each side.
Anyway, replacing them was not cheap - $183.90 for each side, just for the parts, and then some 3 hours labor (this guy in Minneapolis was great, he let me hang with him to one side out of his way, and talk and watch everything he did, was a great learning experience).
Re: steering stabalizer question
I can confirm this. On my late-90's E-250 camper van, I did get new ball joints (at around 125k). So they exist, and Bob does not have a one-off 
1999 Concourse