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PostPosted: May 11th, 2017, 6:59 pm 
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A friend of mine has a 97 Premier that I am helping her get fully fixed up and ready for the season. The rv is an e350 v10 with about 95k miles on it. It is definitely in need of new shocks, so I will take it in for that next week.

What shocks are preferred? While the shocks are being done, is there anything else you you recommend to replace, given the mileage?

Other than the shocks, everything else seems to run well and all the systems run well.

Thanks.


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PostPosted: May 12th, 2017, 4:08 am 
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Location: Northern NJ
The favorite shock seems to be Bilsteins. Use the forum search with that word and you'll find the part numbers as well.

Mine only has 50k miles, but out of curiousity I also pulled the front steering damper to check... and yep it was shot after all these years! About $40 later I had a factory replacement off eBay and what a nice difference it made by actually working :D

So I recommend checking the steering stabilizer as well (or installing one if it's missing).

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PostPosted: May 12th, 2017, 6:40 am 
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Joined: July 31st, 2014, 1:01 am
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Location: 1999 Concourse
That's at just about the year/mileage my previous camper van (also Ford w/Triton engine) was at when I got it, so I'll blend my thoughts on that and my Chinook (which is lower mileage but around same age). Here are a few things that come to mind that I either had done preventatively or that needed to be repaired at around that age/mileage. Of course if any of this was recently done, then take that into consideration.

1) Serpentine belt, replace
(kept removed one as spare).

2) Spark plugs, replace
(these can be tricky on the Triton engines, so best to have someone experienced or do them yourself if you have the bent).

3) Coolant, check (if dirty/worn flush and replace)

4) Brakes, check

4.5) Brake fluid, check (if dirty replace)

5) Front suspension, check

6) Shocks, check/replace (I like the Koni FSD but there are others that work well too).

7) Start battery, check age, terminals' condition (should be Group 65; I have seen others used by mistake as people didn't know about unique size)

8) Tires, check (if over 6 years old replace even if tread is "like new" because rubber ages out).

9) Valve stems, check (I recommend replacing "extenders" (rubber tubes, may be metal covered) with true extended valve stems from Borg or Tireman (solid metal and all one stem). Dually issues are even less fun on the road than "singly" ones.

10) Oil/filter, change.

11) Apparently the upper/lower radiator hoses on these go a pretty long time, but I'd still give them a look/feel.

You likely won't need to do all of the above, but since I can't tell for sure from your post, and you asked, I figured I'd mention everything that came to mind for around 100k. You might also want to look up the Ford recommended service for the past 25k or so to see if there is anything else.

When I got my campervan at 95k it had been reasonably maintained. But still, within the first thousand miles I did tires/brakes/Air-con recharge. Within the first 5k (so at 100k), spark plugs and serpentine belt. Then at around 125k the front suspension components needed replacing (ball joints/tie rod ends, etc.)

BG

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PostPosted: May 12th, 2017, 4:39 pm 
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What Blue~Go said. In addition here is the work I did on our 2002 when purchased used in 2013 with 33K miles. Both age and mileage cause their respective issues.

CHASSIS
* Check MORyde rubber blocks (if installed on rear springs) for cracking
* Torque wheel lug nuts
* Change rear axle fluid
* Grease front ball joints
* Bilstein shocks
33-187563 Front
33-176840 Rear

COACH
* Replace generator oil
* Exercise generator to be sure carburetor is clean
* Drain / flush hot-water tank and new anode rod
* Replace regulator on propane tank
* Service Fantastic vent fan (loose wires, dirty switches)
* Check bathroom vent lid not cracked
* New roof-top AC shroud
* New black / grey waste tank valves
* Check refrigerator for cooling
* Dometic refrigerator recall service and new Dinosaur board to fix check-light problem
* Check furnace for wasp nests
* Clean all 7 chassis ground points

Hope this helps. Cheers,

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"The Blue Chook" 2002 Concourse Dinette on 2001 E-350 chassis w V10


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PostPosted: May 13th, 2017, 12:47 pm 
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Joined: August 8th, 2015, 11:54 am
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Location: Santa Cruz, CA
When I bought my 2003 Premier it only had 22k miles on it but the front brake pads had begun to crack due to age - might want to check those out as well. Agree with Blue on the tires - if they're older than 6 years replace them.

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2003 Premier V-10


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PostPosted: May 13th, 2017, 7:29 pm 
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Location: 1999 Concourse
Oh, and one more thing on the disc brakes: Make sure to have the caliper slides lubricated. They are somewhat known for sticking, and then the whole brake/hub gets super hot and you are stuck. This happened to a friend of mine with a 2006 E-450. I was in the passenger seat and the passenger front caliper slide stuck and the whole thing started smoking and got super hot. We had to pull over and let it cool down and then limp home (only a couple of miles). Caliper slides hadn't been lubricated in a while (and also it sat for awhile).

I also had the place that did my big "baseline" service when I got the Chinook mention this to me (and then lube them).

With a '97 I believe you will have front discs (so they have calipers) and rear drums.

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PostPosted: May 14th, 2017, 9:39 pm 
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Thanks to everyone for the advice. Happy trails!


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PostPosted: May 19th, 2017, 11:27 pm 
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helpful tip on the serpentine belt replacement... borrow the slim tool from AutoZone. I've used just s big wrench in the past to unload the tensioner, but thing are too tight in the ford van engine bay. Easy job with the right tool.. lots of cussing without it.


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PostPosted: May 20th, 2017, 3:09 pm 
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Joined: July 31st, 2014, 1:01 am
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Location: 1999 Concourse
Good tip! I needed a slim wrench when I was upsizing the chassis/start battery ground. The way Ford had it in there was impossible to get to! Called a couple of bicycle shops because they often use slim wrenches but no luck in the size I needed. Ended up heating up a standard spanner with a torch and bending it to fit. But a slim tool just available for the borrowing is a great thing!

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