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PostPosted: August 4th, 2014, 11:46 am 
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I assume it's the internal locking mechanism that's making the noise. Sounds like something needs to be greased (graphite lube?), but what exactly? I haven't tried to take the rear door handle cover off yet.. maybe it'll be self explanatory after that.(?)

as always, thanks!


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PostPosted: August 4th, 2014, 1:43 pm 
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Location: Santa Rosa, CA One hour north of San Francisco
Mine did the same and I used WD 40 which not only stopped the sound but let it close easier as well. I have two locks...the OEM one and an after market deadbolt.

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PostPosted: August 4th, 2014, 2:30 pm 
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If you havent done so already .....Try lubing it up before you start taking it apart . Spray some in the key hole , Some where the latch / bolt comes out of and a little into the hole where the latch/ bolt goes into.

Cycle the lock in and out and repeat a few times. wd40 / pb50 or similiar followed by a wipe down works well.

The dry lube works but if it,s been neglected / not lubed for awhile your better off with something a little wetter .


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PostPosted: August 4th, 2014, 2:51 pm 
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Joined: July 31st, 2014, 1:01 am
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Location: 1999 Concourse
I can see where one wouldn't want something greasy that would attract dirt, but on the other hand, isn't WD40 a solvent? Seems like it would work at first but then not (would free things up but then not lubricate later on). I guess I would use a lubricant (vs. either a grease or a solvent). Perhaps a PTFE lubricant such as Tri-flow or McLube. Or something like Boeshield T-9.

Maybe if these don't work, then a solvent like WD-40 to get it going, followed by a lubricant.

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PostPosted: August 4th, 2014, 4:01 pm 
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Yes it,s mainly solvent which helps wash away grit , then it leaves a slight film of oil behind to lube a little. It doesn,t last forever but it,s easy , cheap and readily availible and works for the application .

The main thing is to lube it every once in a while regardless of what you want to use.

Those graphite lubes or anything heavier work as well but can build up in time, then you need to hit it with something lighter , more solventy anyways to clean it up .

That,s been my experience doing ornamental iron work for 25 years and installing countless amount of locks in exterior gates .

Y.m.m.v.


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PostPosted: August 4th, 2014, 4:05 pm 
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Location: 1999 Concourse
chinook440 wrote:
... doing ornamental iron work for 25 years and installing countless amount of locks in exterior gates.


Sounds like you definitely have the "mileage"! If you ever feel like posting some of your work in the Campfire sub-forum, I bet I'm not the only one who would enjoy seeing it.

I've taken a liking to PTFE lubes, but as you say, the main thing is not to neglect something.

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PostPosted: February 2nd, 2015, 6:07 pm 
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I still can't find the source of this screech. I mean I can feel it but can't get to it. From outside, about 6-8inchea to the right of the handle in the flat part of the door. That's where the locking mechanism must be, but even shooting lube in through any crack I can find doesn't get to it. I don't see how to remove the outside or inside handles even? The inside has 3 screws but the handle is still in the way with no noticeable screws to remove the handle?
Lil help? Will post a pic if someone has an idea..


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PostPosted: February 2nd, 2015, 6:54 pm 
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Just after posting that last call for help, I looked at it again and saw it. You have to take about 10 screws out from around the inside frame. Whole plastic back cover comes off. Got the actuator thing out.. Lubed up the end piece (all I could see getting to.. Removed protective boot cover thing). Unfortunately, the squeal must be down inside that actuator. With no model number or brand name.. I'm in the hunt for a new actuator. When I get my hand in a drill, I'll drill a small hole just big enough to shoot some sort of lube into and see if I get lucky. Could burn out the electronics though.


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