MORryde Shocks

Post project writeups, ideas, DIY mods and off the shelf modifications and improvements. Also "Known Issues" and their resolutions.
dougm
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Posts: 516
Joined: June 7th, 2016, 9:25 pm

Re: MORryde Shocks

Post by dougm »

I got black pipe and 4 elbows but the vice broke off of the wooden work bench while i was threading the piece i shortend so the yellow pipe is only a temporary fix.
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Blue~Go
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Joined: July 31st, 2014, 1:01 am
Location: 1999 Concourse

Re: MORryde Shocks

Post by Blue~Go »

Ah, gotcha, good to know. Now I'm glad I mentioned it (didn't want you thinking I was getting all elitist or something). You already know and now anyone else who sees it won't think "Oh, I can just run to Lowe's and get a yellow ribbed flexible appliance connector piece."

I'm still blown away that you got that whole air system installed - and it didn't even take years! :D Come on over and finish my interior remodeling if you don't mind - based on the air install it should only take you a week :D
1999 Concourse
Skillet
Posts: 495
Joined: March 22nd, 2015, 7:45 am
Location: Northern Virginia

Re: MORryde Shocks

Post by Skillet »

Wow, that went in quick and looking good too! Yeah, I was expecting to get updates over the next month, etc. Don't know where you're at or your work situation, but you could probably make some good money installing stuff for rv people.
'02 Concourse where there's always a project going on...
dougm
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Posts: 516
Joined: June 7th, 2016, 9:25 pm

Re: MORryde Shocks

Post by dougm »

It took a solid week from noon till about 10 PM. I have never installed one before so i had to sort out all of the details of where to locate each reservoir ect.... And even though it comes with ample fittings, most of them are straight so alot of them had to be replaced with 90 degree fittings ect... Some details are not in the instructions even though what is in the instructions is detailed they forgot a couple of important details. For instance, there is a plate that sits between the Z spring and the air bags which has a tab on it for the height control valve linkage, that plate has a slotted hole in the center for the air bag bolt to pass threw, however the slot allows the plate to slide for and aft 3/8". It seems like a non issue as long as you slide them both either forward or backward however that 3/8" has a huge affect on the height control valve and since the kit is pre-set for the E-350 super duty chassis height i was left having to learn that those plates must be slid all the way back or else the valve lever is pushed upwards 3/8" causing extra air to go into the air bags and effectively raising the truck higher than it should be. :lol: I got my generator put back in and everything hooked up, also installed a new spark arrestor on it as well as new exhaust from the arrestor all the way back. P.S....Just an added note, the factory tailpipe will not work with this system, i had to cut it off because it turns out exactly where the air bag sits. Once i finish all the small details and other items i want to tinker with, i will take it to an exhaust shop and have them bend me a custom tailpipe that goes back further before it turns out. One other item worth a mention is the mud flaps, i dont know if they all came with mud flaps or not but mine has them and they also must be trimmed to allow clearance for the air bags. It was alot of money but man the thing just rides like a dream compared to what was on it, was well worth the investment to me, of course if you have to pay a shop to install the kit im sure they will hit you with a bill for a couple grand just to install it on top of the purchase price.
BobW9
Posts: 252
Joined: February 16th, 2018, 4:46 pm
Location: Full-Time on the Road

Re: MORryde Shocks

Post by BobW9 »

Dougm, I was wondering how you have found your air suspension to ride over rough gravel roads, or dirt roads with lots of small rocks/roots/bumps? Not so much for potholes, which are obviously slow going in any vehicle - just these roads with 1"-3" bumps.

These are the one type of road I simply can not go on because the vibrations are so bad in the rear I have to go like 5 mph. There have been some Federal lands, and even a few state parks, that had these terrible roads going to nice, remote, dry camping areas, and I have given up trying to get to them.

After reading this forum the past week, I've decided to try removing my large Helwig rear sway bar and see what that does. But air suspension has always seemed like something to dream about, and you're the only one I've read about that actually did the full conversion :)

Thanks,
Bob
dougm
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Posts: 516
Joined: June 7th, 2016, 9:25 pm

Re: MORryde Shocks

Post by dougm »

I cant really give an unbiased opinion because when i got my Chinook the MORryde blocks were already shot, meaning my comparison would be worn out MORryde versus brand new air suspension. I have no idea how a chinook rides with new rubber blocks installed. Regardless its a 6 ton truck so no matter what you install they arent going to go over 3 inch bumps smoothly. I like the air suspension ride quality but i also have hellwig sway bars front/rear and i hate them so they will be coming off this spring when i update the front suspension. I will replace the front sway bar with a newer style factory bar andi havent decided what to do on the back yet. I may just have a track bar built for rear versus a sway bar. I have a huge list of springtime upgrades to get done which includes all new front suspension system which should net 2 inches lift, a brand new 4k generator which is currently sitting where the dinnette used to be,new vinyl plank flooring to install, remove rear step to have it powder coated and install new stepmotor, have custom rear bumpers built, build new cabinets and wall for fridge, new jack knife sofa or just build day bed couch (undecided on couch). Then i f i have a penny left to my name i want to change the front seats. I also have new FOX shocks for it because imo these things need the best shocks you can find, i currently have bilsteins front/rear and they are already worn out after 2 years. I lifted my FJ cruiser and installed FOX shocks and it was like riding on a cloud, but then again it wasnt 6 tons either. :o
BobW9
Posts: 252
Joined: February 16th, 2018, 4:46 pm
Location: Full-Time on the Road

Re: MORryde Shocks

Post by BobW9 »

Let us know how the ride changes when you remove the sway bar in the rear. And change to those FOX shocks, too, as I haven't met anyone that really talked about them. For me, its always been Koni vs Bilstein. I have Koni, but got them just before the FSD came out. I like them, but have to wonder if the FSD, or Bilstein version of them, would give me smoother ride over gravel.

Does sound like you've got a busy Spring ahead of you ;)
dougm
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Posts: 516
Joined: June 7th, 2016, 9:25 pm

Re: MORryde Shocks

Post by dougm »

The mechanical stuff will take me 2 or 3 days in the driveway. The interior stuff on the other hand will take me some time because im not a carpenter. My father was going to help with the cabinets and wall because he use to do carpentry work years ago but he had a stroke recently, but he will still help even if its just advice.
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Blue~Go
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Re: MORryde Shocks

Post by Blue~Go »

BobW9 wrote: For me, its always been Koni vs Bilstein. I have Koni, but got them just before the FSD came out. I like them, but have to wonder if the FSD, or Bilstein version of them, would give me smoother ride over gravel.
You may have read some of my thoughts elsewhere in the forum (IOW, sorry if I'm repeating myself), but the first suspension work I did was to put the FSD shocks on all four corners. Huge improvement over the stockers, which made the rig feel like I was constantly driving on top of a large ball, that would randomly dip/roll down to one of the four corners. So I was very happy with the FSD's.

But then went further down my upgrade path and, on the rear, that consisted of putting the big Roadmaster anti-sway bar on (along with other front stuff, but let's ignore that for now and concentrate on the rear). Well the handling was great, but the all-new added rear end shudder/jarring/things-falling-down on anything rougher than velvet was most definitely NOT great.

So then my mission was to try to keep as much of the "great" as I could while losing the newly added jarring in the rear (and this was on pavement; I don't even want to think about a gravel road!). Basically that consisted of backing off on the rear anti-sway bar (went to a narrower diameter bar) and then I also changed the rear shocks (see, I'm getting to my point here) from the FSD to the Koni adjustable, set on the softest setting.

I think that shock change made a slight improvement, but I couldn't swear to it. I just liked the idea of the adjustability just in case. (The lighter bar made the lion's share of the difference.) I kept the FSD's on the front (and the beefy bar). No complaints at all up front. The rear could always stand to be improved, but it's acceptable to me.

However, maybe the Fox shocks would be king of them all, so yeah, let's hear more about them!
1999 Concourse
dougm
Senior Member
Posts: 516
Joined: June 7th, 2016, 9:25 pm

Re: MORryde Shocks

Post by dougm »

3 inch lift which is supposed to net me two inches of lift in the front. Note the bends in the I-beams to mitigate any camber/caster issues at alignment time. Course there are a ton of parts not in the photos,balljoints, alignment bushings,brake pads, ect.... P.S...almost forgot the shocks are revalved for the RV, they are not standard off the shelf E350 van shocks. New style radius arms and brackets.
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