MORryde Shocks

[dougm]

I looked and searched extensively online as well as visited with mechanics at the local Freightliner shop as well as Inland Truck parts to get thoughts, experiences, and opinions. However you will find as i did that there are only a couple of companies that actually make a complete replacement kit for the Ford E-350 Super Duty. One of the selling points for the Reyco kit is the fact that it uses existing mount points and as many of the existing holes in the frame as possible, which means its basically as simple as removing the old suspension and bolting on the air conversion system. Of course you still have to mount the compressor and reservoir, route wires and air lines. Other companies manufacture air kits for the E-450 but that system uses a four link control arm type setup and has a different final ride height than the E350 so it cant be used on the Chinook. But then again anything is possible, i just didnt want to purchase a kit for the E450 and be the test pilot dummy who wasted thousands on a suspension that ended up not working properly. Each vehicle has a specific factory ride height, each after market kit also comes with a predetermined ride height that you must measure from the axle center line to the top of the chassis frame at a specific point when you install the system. Each system is designed to have a specific amount of suspension travel up and or down based on that predeterminded height when you install it. If you dont install it per the instructions and set that ride height incorrectly you could be bottoming out the axle housing or ruining something else. Anyway once you have the ride height correct the air system will maintain the vehicle at that same height regardless of what load you have on the vehicle. Beyond that the Reyco system uses what is called a Z spring which aids in softening the ride, versus a rigid 4 link style setup with just air bags attached. I also ordered a few add ons like a low pressure warning system, an enclosure for the compressor, and what they call a ping tank which ties into the air system and helps to soften the ride even more. The last selling point for Reyco is that they have been in business for a very long time, meaning if something needs replaced i dont need to worry that they went out of business and i cant get replacement parts. It is quite an investment for a vehicle i purchased used, but if it takes care of the spine jarring bumps associated with whats currently on the vehicle it will be worth it to me.
http://www.linkmfg.com/products/ultraride/
http://reycogranning.com/suspensions-cat/ambulances/

[Blue~Go]

It sounds like you have researched it well. I don't know if you know these things (yet), but here are three things I'm interested in:

1) As a side bonus, can you use the air suspension to level the rig when parked? (This is a feature of the air suspensions on some Class A's - would be a fun bonus.)

2) Is there a projected net gain or loss of rig weight with the air suspension vs. the stock one?

3) Can you occasionally (and gingerly) "lift" the ride height to get over an obstruction or apron? (This could be done on the Class A mentioned above, for limited time periods and at slow speed.)

I don't mean to send you off researching, but just wondered if you knew any of these things from what you've already studied. As you can tell, many of us are very interested!

[dougm]

Those things would be possible with additional add ons and modifcations, however out of the box the system is designed to be installed as i stated by making the initial ride height setting and then thats where the height control valve keeps the vehicle as far as height goes. If you had an instance where you needed the vehicle higher briefly you would have to readjust the linkage going to that valve or reach back in there and move it by hand. Im certain there is a way to make it an adjustable height setup from the cab, but in stock form its intended to be set at the optimal ride height and thats where its maintained by the control valve. As far as a weight saving or gain over the factory springs i cant say at this point because i havent seen what the kit weighs yet. Once it shows up i will have a shipping bill showing the weight, and can make a comparison, if i was to venture a guess i would say that there isnt going to be much difference because even though the factory springs are heavy and those rubber blocks and frame work prolly weigh a few pounds each, your putting back on z spings which arent as heavy but certainly arent weightless, your also adding air bags, brackets, sliders, valves, compressor, reservoir, ect... If there is any weight savings it would be minimal IMO. By the way the solar kit showed up already today, i sent you a PM about the OEM charge controller. PS... i know for a fact you can purchase an in cab remote blow down system from reyco because thats how they lower the ambulance to load people on stretchers, so i dont know why there wouldnt be a kit to do the opposite.

[Blue~Go]

Thanks for the additional info. I see what you are saying about ride height setting. And really, a great ride is the main purpose after all.

For leveling (when camped), I use Lynx blocks and really, I find I only level around 30% of the time. But still, when I had this brief notion about buying a Class A, I thought the air leveling was pretty slick. It used the air suspension that was already designed in, and when you parked you just pressed a button and "ki-shuuuh, ki-shuuuh, some air magic happened and your rig was sitting level - with nothing but the tires touching the ground! Very cool for a parking lot or etc. (it wouldn't handle huge adjustments though). But that's likely a more involved system.

[dougm]

Received an email today that my order is being built as i speak, so maybe it wont take 5 or even 4 weeks. I hope it doesnt take that long, im ready to do some traveling.

[robtbritn]

Received an email today that my order is being built as i speak, so maybe it wont take 5 or even 4 weeks. I hope it doesnt take that long, im ready to do some traveling.

Good deal...I'm exited and it's not even going on my rig! Should make for a nice upgrade.

[dougm]

Picked the suspension kit up today at the trucking company dock. Loaded it all in my FJ Cruiser for the ride home. Opened all of the boxes and started to inventory everything. About all i can say at this point is #1) The kit does not include Bilstein shocks as i was told at point of sale. #2) I wasted money on the air compressor enclosure because it is to big to mount under the chinook, plus it weighs a ton since its made out of plate steel. Looks like i will probably have to mount the compressor in the side compartment behind the batteries, not 100% certain yet. I will have to jumper the compressor to see how much it vibrates and how much noise it might make inside of that compartment. Beyond that everything else looks pretty straight forward as far as install goes. There are a zillion fittings and washers and bolts so i am now reading papers to locate where each of them belong. Not 100% sure when i will start the actual install process because its been almost 100 degrees here everyday for a week now.
Also for anyone considering the kit.... It does not come with wire to wire everything up nor does it include 1/4" DOT rated air line, i will find out how expensive that stuff is first of next week. My generator quit on me while i was out of state camping with my Dog so i yanked it out the other day. Anyone have a good Microquiet 4K generator forsale? Heres a pic of the Pressure gauge, compressor on/off switch and Kneeler valve switch as well as the Low Pressure alarm.

[Blue~Go]

Picked the suspension kit up today at the trucking company dock.

The air suspension has arrived!

Anyone have a good Microquiet 4K generator for sale?

I'm going to be selling my Microlite 4k (original to my Concourse). It has 27 hours on it (which tells you why I'm going to sell it - I don't use it). When I bought the rig I had it completely gone through and maintained. It was working fine, but I just wanted a baseline.

I haven't put up an official ad yet because I haven't yet removed it. Unless someone wants it sooner, I'll likely do that this fall. It has the official Onan inside panel with start button and hour meter (near the closet), plus the auxilliary start on the cab ceiling (although you probably already have that switch anyway).

[dougm]

i have all the switches already. Is your generator enclosed in a sheet metal cage? Mine has a sheel metal enclosure around it. I assume its to prevent heat from absorbing in threw the walls and floor when the gen is running. It makes it a pain in the A@$ to get out of the rig.

[Blue~Go]

Yes, mine is in the sheet metal box that extends both up into the rig (under the refrigerator) and then down to the generator. I think that came in around 1997 or so (or at least I know on a 1994 it's different). It looks as though it should come out fine, but... you've done it and apparently not? I think I will remove the hatch door and frame for extra clearance as so not to damage it (good chance to re-bed it anyway). Did you remove the hatch door and frame? Or did you work around it?

I think it's more that the metal enclosure was a suggestion/requirement from Onan (been a while since I read the Onan install manual so I'm hedging). Due to flame/gas vs. living space or the like. On my rig it was only covered with carpet padding and carpet on the living space side, which not exactly great for accoustics or heat. If I were keeping the generator I had planned to instead cover the living space side of the sheet metal box (inside the rig that is) with something like dynamat and then a heat insulating layer. I have already removed the carpet/padding/glue (removed fridge so had easy access). Well, actually, I'll probably still give it "the treatment" since it's basically a tin box to the outdoors, and can't be helping the noise level in the rig while driving.