MORryde Shocks

Post project writeups, ideas, DIY mods and off the shelf modifications and improvements. Also "Known Issues" and their resolutions.
dougm
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Re: MORryde Shocks

Post by dougm »

Yes you have to remove the door and trim ring or the generator wont come out. Even with the trim ring off mine just barely comes out with it
encased in that sheet metal housing. Chinook mounted the generator on top of their own frame work so once you unbolt the generator from underneath that frame comes out with the generator. I found that one of the ground wires had vibrated over such a long period that it actually broke and thats why mine wouldnt stay running. The generator has a ground wire that attaches to the onan chassis, then the onan chassis is grounded to the chinook chassis, and the chinook chassis is grounded to the RV frame. I was just going to try to find a 4k onan and maybe i will again down the road but for now i installed a new carb, spark plug, air filter, fuel filters, ground wires, and now im just waiting on the spark arrestor which i had to order. Once the arrestor gets here i can put the covers back on it and stick it back in the rig. I worked on the Air Suspension for a while today because it was cloudy outside which cut down on the heat considerably. I will have a list of issues as long as my left arm when im done. The hardest part of the job is getting the leaf springs and the Moryde crap off of the vehicle. The driver side front leaf spring bolt is a problem which you have to address, the drivers side air bag upper spring perch bolts are also an issue as the fuel tank prevents you from being able to put nuts on the perch bolts when you mount it. Those are the two primary issues i had with the drivers side. If you go out and look at the bolt in the front leaf spring eyelet and pretend your going to take that bolt out, you will see the problem. The bolt is pushed threw the eyelet from the outside in towards the vehicle. Chinook (trailwagons) should have removed that bolt and pushed it threw from the other side prior to lowering the camper body onto the chassis. In otherwords you either have to lift the entire camper up off the chassis or you have to drill a 2 inch hole in the storage compartment directly behind the bolt so as to get a socket on it and be able to yank the bolt out of the spring completely. :cry: I can see that on the drivers side that the propane line that feeds the fridge is going to be an issue so i shut the propane tank off tonight and am burning off the propane in the line so tomorrow i will be ready to remove that line and make appropriate modifications to it otherwise the new block that rests on top of the new Z spring will most likely be pounding against it when i hit a bump.
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Blue~Go
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Re: MORryde Shocks

Post by Blue~Go »

dougm wrote:Yes you have to remove the door and trim ring or the generator wont come out. Even with the trim ring off mine just barely comes out with it encased in that sheet metal housing.
Okay, now I'm wondering if ours even are the same. Reason I say that is the sheet metal surround that is on my rig is huge, and basically a permanent part of the coach floor. The generator sits inside it, but there is quite a bit of room between the generator and the sheet metal box. The generator itself has the teal colored Onan housing. Maybe I'll post some photos to help clarify one way or the other.

Sounds like you got yours going though, so that's good.
1999 Concourse
dougm
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Re: MORryde Shocks

Post by dougm »

Mine has the Onan teal colored cover on the generator, but then it has a sheetmetal cover that goes over that and screws into the chinook generator base, then once all that is assembled you have to lift it up and slide it back into the RV. Its not done yet, they had to order the spark arrestor and there was only one available threw Cummins and its in Tennessee, spose to be here tuesday.
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Blue~Go
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Re: MORryde Shocks

Post by Blue~Go »

Ah okay, that sounds like something that must have changed by the time your Chinook was built. On mine, there is a rather large sheet metal box that is built in as part of the floor (under the fridge). It extends about 12" or so up into the living area (through a cutout in the plywood floor) and is permanently attached to the coach. But when you open the side hatch you just see the generator and then some inches of space all the way around it (between it and the sheet metal box). The sheet metal box doesn't remove (well of course anything removes with a Sawzall, but I mean it doesn't normally remove). It only surrounds four sides of the generator (then a separate floor piece), but there is nothing on the hatch side.

Maybe it will be easier to remove (one can hope :) ).
1999 Concourse
dougm
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Re: MORryde Shocks

Post by dougm »

Just sharing my final experience with Stengel Brothers whom i ordered the kit from. I was told multiple times that this kit comes with Blistein shocks tuned specifically for the air suspension, it was also stated on the web page prior to them editing the page after their false claims about shipping to residential addresses. The kit came on a pallet with about 5 boxes and the z springs all strapped to it, there were no shocks once i inventoried all of the boxes. I emailed Stengel Brothers informing them that they did not send the shocks. Stengel brothers replied stating the kit doesnt come with shocks and basically told me to pound sand. If you plan to purchase this system for your chinook i would highly recommend finding a distributor other than Stengel brothers. I paid over 4300 dollars for this kit expecting shocks were included, i also had to drive 100 miles round trip to pick the kit up at a trucking company because after i was told that it would be delivered to my residence two days after i submitted paypal in full i was notified that they can not deliver to a residence. Save yourself some aggravation and find a distributor who doesnt intentionally mislead you just to get your money and then leave you hanging out to dry. Very poor experience dealing with Stengel Brothers. I am now left with no other option but to file a complaint with the Attorney General State Department of Consumer Affairs.
dougm
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Re: MORryde Shocks

Post by dougm »

Got all of the suspension installed, routed all the air lines and secured them, mounted the air compressor and then used jumper wire to start the compressor so i could check for leaks and proper function and then took it for a short trip down the street to the bumpiest road in town. Everything works like its supposed to, i may have to adjust the length of the the height control valve linkage tomorrow after i measure final ride height because it goes to high IMO. The rear of the Chinook now rides like a baby stroller in comparison to the Morryde junk that was on it. Well worth the money to me, ride quality is superior. Tomorrow i just finish wiring things up, adjust the ride height, and then go pickup the spark arrestor for my generator.
If you have a chinook and you are sick and tired of being beat half to death with the rough ride then this kit is a God send to say the least. If you are not mechanically inclined then you need to pay someone to do the swap for you because it is very labor intensive to say the least. I am very pleased with the product so far.
dougm
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Re: MORryde Shocks

Post by dougm »

Some pics from install.... Also note the little grey box. I mounted the kneeler valves inside the boxes (one on each side) to protect them from
the rain, snow, mud, ect....
Last edited by dougm on July 28th, 2016, 11:41 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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Blue~Go
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Re: MORryde Shocks

Post by Blue~Go »

Wow, I'm impressed. That kit looked daunting. Glad to hear it rides so well.

(I will say that mine doesn't "beat me half to death" either, although I'm sure air-ride has to be superior. I did do some mods which improved it somewhat, and it was slightly harsh originally, but doesn't sound as bad as yours was. (I also never had Mor-Ryde at all.)

I'm curious: Do you have a scale weight on the rear axle at all? I think the later ones seem to have more weight there, but I'm not sure.... plus you'd almost think that would have made the stock ride softer, not harsher (?).

I range from between ~6,500# on the rear axle when fully loaded with stuff, but only a partial tank of fuel; to ~7400# when fully loaded with stuff, plus full of fuel, plus towing (~310# tongue weight, which adds around 500# to the rear axle). Since the 37 gallon fuel tank is behind the axle, it makes a fair difference whether it's full or not.

Anyway, sounds like your air suspension is fantastic, and I'm totally impressed at your doing your own installation. Very cool.
1999 Concourse
dougm
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Re: MORryde Shocks

Post by dougm »

Main reservoir location....
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Blue~Go
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Re: MORryde Shocks

Post by Blue~Go »

I have a question on the LP line. I thought that the yellow "ribbed" type flexible LP line was not meant to be used in RV's. Reason that I read was that although it's flexible, it doesn't stand up to vibration at all well.

Boats do use flexible line, but it's an approved black hose. (That said, it's not subject to road debris, but it still may be fine for that.) Propane systems on boats are subject to a lot of really strict rules, since any leaks inside will stay aboard and an explosion at sea is a real downer.

Usually on RV's, it's black pipe on the undercarriage, and then copper inside. I do see that Chinook used some of the black hose between the tank and the first black pipe though (perhaps that area is best with a flexible connection.

I don't mean to sound like a downer - and I'm not one who thinks folks shouldn't work on their own LP lines - I do. Maybe the hose you show isn't the same "yellow ribbed" type as used to hook up appliances in a home. It just looked a bit like it and I wanted to let you know it may be unsuitable in case you wanted to check into it.
1999 Concourse
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