Spare tire relocation
Spare tire relocation
Has anyone mounted their spare tire on the roof?
Re: Spare tire relocation
I have seen where one person (at least) made a reinforced mount for the spare on the roof. If I remember correctly it involved fiberglass with some metal reinforcement. It was in the broad, flattish area just to your left as you disembark the ladder. Obviously, you'd have to have a plan for how to get it up and down (I would not involve the ladder in this as I don't think either the ladder - or more specifically the ladder mounts) would take more weight than a person.
Born Free Class C's don't come with a spare (or at least didn't for many years), and some of the owners have carried an unmounted tire on the roof (because it's a lot lighter but still better than nothing).
I moved mine to the front for a couple of reasons:
1) To get the bulk away from the entry area at the rear.
2) Easier access to the "tire locker" storage area (the one just ahead of where the stock spare mounts).
3) Remove weight from rear axle.
Numbers 2 and 3 were mostly just side bonuses.
I did save all the rear spare mounting hardware in case I change plans, but so far I'm still happy with it on the front (has been two years since I moved it). If this option interests you, you could probably turn up older posts with a search - I mentioned part numbers and etc.
Born Free Class C's don't come with a spare (or at least didn't for many years), and some of the owners have carried an unmounted tire on the roof (because it's a lot lighter but still better than nothing).
I moved mine to the front for a couple of reasons:
1) To get the bulk away from the entry area at the rear.
2) Easier access to the "tire locker" storage area (the one just ahead of where the stock spare mounts).
3) Remove weight from rear axle.
Numbers 2 and 3 were mostly just side bonuses.
I did save all the rear spare mounting hardware in case I change plans, but so far I'm still happy with it on the front (has been two years since I moved it). If this option interests you, you could probably turn up older posts with a search - I mentioned part numbers and etc.
1999 Concourse
Re: Spare tire relocation
Thanks Blue, I saw your other posts regarding the front mount. Have you had any overheating issues with it up there? Also have you done any suspension mods to your rig...While I have built/modified close to 70 cars in my lifetime (still have 7) I am new to the RV thing. Thanks for any education you can provide.
Re: Spare tire relocation
I haven't had any overheating issues at all. I run a Scangauge II so I can keep an eye on fresh-water temperature and transmission fluid temperature. I had also heard/read rumors of overheating, Ford warranty voiding, etc. But I found some solid info that made me feel like trying it (it's easily reversible). A fellow with a Born Free (very similar to our Chinooks, size, chassis, and engine wise) had done a long trip to Central America. He'd mounted the front spare and also ran a Scan Gauge. No issues. If it could get him and his family/gear through Central America, I figured I'd try it too.
Around the same time (but a month or so after the tire) I put on a larger transmission cooler. This also hasn't changed the fresh-water (engine cooling) temperature but I think it does cause the cooling fan to come on slightly more often to maintain the temperature (typical FWT for my rig is around 198ºF). Say, when chugging up a pass in hot weather. The reason I'm pretty sure it's the transmission cooler and not the tire is that the tire is quite a ways out in front of the grille, whereas the transmission cooler is right in front of the radiator (as the stock one also was) and of course it not only blocks the radiator slightly but it also spews heat (as it cools the transmission). If I were to change anything, I'd probably see about fitting a transmission cooler that was sized about halfway between the original and the one I added. On the other hand the engine cooling does have the fan, and when it comes on it cools the engine down in about ten seconds. (And it did come on even before the tire/trans cooler too of course.) Whereas the transmission doesn't have that ability.
I have done suspension mods. When I got my rig, it was pretty much bone stock and had 49,000 miles on it. It has a leaf spring rear suspension (no More-Ryde). First thing I did (suspension wise) was put on new shocks. I went with Koni FSD. Then I drove it a while. Nothing was horrible, but I like something fun to drive, so I still wanted to make some improvements.
Next thing was a new (2014) front end (take-off from a van being converted to 4WD). This was a HUGE improvement in braking (that's the reason I did it), but also gave me the somewhat improved newer front suspension (2008-onwards), and of course also resulted in all new ball joints, etc. This was such a great mod that I'd do it again in a heartbeat. No more dreading the "stale" green light. (My original brakes were in good condition; just seemed under-braked. And the new brakes and front suspension are MUCH beefier than the originals.)
At the same time I put on a Roadmaster front and rear anti-sway bar. This was great for handling, but caused the rear end to get harsh (when going over bumps). Not acceptable. I did some experimenting (helped by the good folks at Henderson's Line-Up in Oregon) and ended up changing to a stock E-450 rear anti-sway bar (is sized between the stock bar and the Roadmaster bar), plus going to a Koni adjustable shock on the rear (adjusted to softest setting). This gave me the goodness of a beefier sway bar, but without the way-too-harshness of the Roadmaster rear bar. (I kept the Roadmaster front bar.)
I also added a Safe-T-Steer to the front, although again I found the "recommended" size to be a bit much. Great on the highway but made a twisty road or driving around town a bit too much of a chore. So I went to a smaller version (I think made for a Toyota Dolphin). That got everything to be just about right for me. One note is that Henderson's has a "test route" and when you arrive there they take your rig (and you) on a long drive around this route (many miles) and then give you a score sheet showing everything you could/need to do and what all the handling faults are. They said the Chinook was already pretty darned good (I did already have the Koni FSD shocks, the front Roadmaster bar [had the stock E-350 rear bar on for the test drive], and the 2014 front end). But I did at that point still elect to do the rear bar and shock tweaking and the Safe-T-Steer installation.
Other options I considered (and would still consider) for the rear are Sulastic shackles, More-Ryde, parabolic springs, and air suspension (in order of least $ to most $). I'd likely try the Sulastic shackles before anything else. The goal would be to maintain the fun but reduce rear harshness (even more). Perhaps then the rear Roadmaster bar could be used.
I still don't mistake the Chinook for a Miata, but it's pretty fun to drive. (And a Miata lacks a kitchen, couch, and bathroom
).
Around the same time (but a month or so after the tire) I put on a larger transmission cooler. This also hasn't changed the fresh-water (engine cooling) temperature but I think it does cause the cooling fan to come on slightly more often to maintain the temperature (typical FWT for my rig is around 198ºF). Say, when chugging up a pass in hot weather. The reason I'm pretty sure it's the transmission cooler and not the tire is that the tire is quite a ways out in front of the grille, whereas the transmission cooler is right in front of the radiator (as the stock one also was) and of course it not only blocks the radiator slightly but it also spews heat (as it cools the transmission). If I were to change anything, I'd probably see about fitting a transmission cooler that was sized about halfway between the original and the one I added. On the other hand the engine cooling does have the fan, and when it comes on it cools the engine down in about ten seconds. (And it did come on even before the tire/trans cooler too of course.) Whereas the transmission doesn't have that ability.
I have done suspension mods. When I got my rig, it was pretty much bone stock and had 49,000 miles on it. It has a leaf spring rear suspension (no More-Ryde). First thing I did (suspension wise) was put on new shocks. I went with Koni FSD. Then I drove it a while. Nothing was horrible, but I like something fun to drive, so I still wanted to make some improvements.
Next thing was a new (2014) front end (take-off from a van being converted to 4WD). This was a HUGE improvement in braking (that's the reason I did it), but also gave me the somewhat improved newer front suspension (2008-onwards), and of course also resulted in all new ball joints, etc. This was such a great mod that I'd do it again in a heartbeat. No more dreading the "stale" green light. (My original brakes were in good condition; just seemed under-braked. And the new brakes and front suspension are MUCH beefier than the originals.)
At the same time I put on a Roadmaster front and rear anti-sway bar. This was great for handling, but caused the rear end to get harsh (when going over bumps). Not acceptable. I did some experimenting (helped by the good folks at Henderson's Line-Up in Oregon) and ended up changing to a stock E-450 rear anti-sway bar (is sized between the stock bar and the Roadmaster bar), plus going to a Koni adjustable shock on the rear (adjusted to softest setting). This gave me the goodness of a beefier sway bar, but without the way-too-harshness of the Roadmaster rear bar. (I kept the Roadmaster front bar.)
I also added a Safe-T-Steer to the front, although again I found the "recommended" size to be a bit much. Great on the highway but made a twisty road or driving around town a bit too much of a chore. So I went to a smaller version (I think made for a Toyota Dolphin). That got everything to be just about right for me. One note is that Henderson's has a "test route" and when you arrive there they take your rig (and you) on a long drive around this route (many miles) and then give you a score sheet showing everything you could/need to do and what all the handling faults are. They said the Chinook was already pretty darned good (I did already have the Koni FSD shocks, the front Roadmaster bar [had the stock E-350 rear bar on for the test drive], and the 2014 front end). But I did at that point still elect to do the rear bar and shock tweaking and the Safe-T-Steer installation.
Other options I considered (and would still consider) for the rear are Sulastic shackles, More-Ryde, parabolic springs, and air suspension (in order of least $ to most $). I'd likely try the Sulastic shackles before anything else. The goal would be to maintain the fun but reduce rear harshness (even more). Perhaps then the rear Roadmaster bar could be used.
I still don't mistake the Chinook for a Miata, but it's pretty fun to drive. (And a Miata lacks a kitchen, couch, and bathroom
).1999 Concourse
Re: Spare tire relocation
If my only option was putting my spare on the roof i just wouldnt carry one. Spares not much use when you break your neck trying to get it down.... 
Re: Spare tire relocation
Thanks everyone for helping with my education. Now if I can find the right unit. Saw one posted in California with 24,000 miles for $49k but don't really want to travel that far to see one that I "hope" would be nice only to be disappointed ( I live in Kansas City) although that might be exactly what I have to do.
Re: Spare tire relocation
dougm, Archimedes would suggest not "breaking one's neck" but rather "mechanical advantage". But thanks for the advice 
Re: Spare tire relocation
Sorry, more new questions about spares. If you had a flat, say on the front, could you use one of the outside rears up front to limp along to a service location rather than sitting on the side of the road, if of course you didn't have a spare. You can probably see where I'm going with this.
Re: Spare tire relocation
Unless you have a force multiplier lug nut wrench, a good jack, chocks and perhaps stands, most people are better off waiting for better equipped (and younger - grin) help.
Personally, I think it'd be better to purchase Good Sam roadside assistance.
https://www.goodsamroadside.com/compare/
Unlimited towing, tire changing, etc. I also got another Good Sam package (I forget its name) which will arrange for someone to drive the RV back home if something happens to me. This has made my wife feel much better about taking trips.
Personally, I think it'd be better to purchase Good Sam roadside assistance.
https://www.goodsamroadside.com/compare/
Unlimited towing, tire changing, etc. I also got another Good Sam package (I forget its name) which will arrange for someone to drive the RV back home if something happens to me. This has made my wife feel much better about taking trips.
1994 Concourse dinette, Ford 7.5L (460 V8)
Re: Spare tire relocation
Thanks for the info, makes sense! I knew that there were road side assistance policies (aside from my regular State Farm) but didn't know who, so thanks for the web address. I presume you recommend them?