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PostPosted: September 13th, 2017, 2:11 pm 
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Joined: August 5th, 2016, 6:21 am
Posts: 38
Location: Front Range, Colorado
The plastic door catches that hold up my storage compartment door and my generator door have long since broken off. I'm sick of holding the doors up with my head whenever I need two hands to do whatever it is that I'm doing, so I want to replace them. The problem is that so few companies advertise the spacing for the mounting hole on their replacements.

I have a 1994 Premier. The holes that are in the fiberglass are 3/4" apart, center-to-center. I've seen some advertised as .77" C2C, and several at 1". There are a few that are 3/4" but they are steel and I'd really like antique white to blend in to my faded paint job. Also, I REALLY don't want to drill any extra holes. I'd rather stick with the head holding than drill holes.

Has anybody replaced theirs with direct replacements? What brand were they?

I've looked at Camco #44163, RV Designer E209 and E206. I've even spoken to RV Designer and they measured a couple for me. The E206 is promising, but she couldn't clearly describe what she was measuring over the phone.

http://www.camco.net/product/baggage-door-catches-10209/?sku=44163

http://www.rvdesigner.com/catview.asp?ci=11

I guess I could drill the base of the catch instead of the body of the RV, but I'm not convinced that would last very long since they're made of relatively cheap plastic.

Also, as a side note, I'm planning on buying an extra catch to mount on the interior above the rear entry door to hold the bathroom door open for those times when we're barely off level. Has anyone else tried this?

As usual, thanks for the info!

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"Harvey" - 1994 Chinook Premier, 7.5L V8


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PostPosted: September 13th, 2017, 4:43 pm 
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Joined: July 31st, 2014, 1:01 am
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Location: 1999 Concourse
It's bad enough when they don't publish dimensions, but to not be able to figure out how to give you a center to center hole measurement? Geesh.

I haven't purchased them, but there are links to a couple of threads where people have done so at the end of this thread:

(Starts out being about interior door struts, but if you read on it goes to the "tongue" and "receptacle" outside door hatch holder-uppers.)

viewtopic.php?f=13&t=282

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PostPosted: September 14th, 2017, 7:49 am 
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Colorider wrote:
I have a 1994 Premier. The holes that are in the fiberglass are 3/4" apart, center-to-center. I've seen some advertised as .77" C2C, and several at 1". There are a few that are 3/4" but they are steel and I'd really like antique white to blend in to my faded paint job. Also, I REALLY don't want to drill any extra holes. I'd rather stick with the head holding than drill holes.
Also, as a side note, I'm planning on buying an extra catch to mount on the interior above the rear entry door to hold the bathroom door open for those times when we're barely off level. Has anyone else tried this?

As usual, thanks for the info!


I'd be pretty confident the .77" is the same as 3/4" part, as a .02" difference is negligible and probably someone's measurement error. I'm sure the original screw holes would work with that tolerance.

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2001 Concourse
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PostPosted: September 14th, 2017, 4:58 pm 
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Yea, the need for three hands when trying to get something out of the outside storage/battery bin under the water heater was bugging me too. I have a 2004 Premier, and, to my knowledge, there never was a catch above the door. Rather than install something (didn't want to drill the shell if I could avoid it), I simply use a small bungy cord--wrap one end around the cam lock on the storage door, and hook it to the "doo-hicki" that holds the small grill of the water heater in place. That piece has a hole in it that works well for this purpose. Been doing this for more than a year without issue...not elegant, but it does the job! My generator cover has a catch already installed above it, so no issue there for me.
David


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PostPosted: September 14th, 2017, 9:35 pm 
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Joined: January 23rd, 2017, 2:25 pm
Posts: 17
The plastic door catches on my 2005 Glacier are manufactured by Top Line Manufacturing. The part number is T10056-04. They sell them from their web site. They call them Door Retainers.

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2005 Glacier 2500


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PostPosted: September 15th, 2017, 5:20 am 
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Joined: November 29th, 2016, 9:06 am
Posts: 16
Location: Houston, TX
Colorider wrote:
Also, as a side note, I'm planning on buying an extra catch to mount on the interior above the rear entry door to hold the bathroom door open for those times when we're barely off level. Has anyone else tried this?


My Premier had a catch for the bathroom door that I suspect was installed by a previous owner rather than the factory. It's just a piece of wood that swivels down to catch the door, but it works great. This is a lousy picture that was taken for another purpose but that happens to show it. I can get a better picture if you want one.


Attachments:
20161202_112806.jpg
20161202_112806.jpg [ 44.07 KiB | Viewed 100 times ]

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PostPosted: September 17th, 2017, 7:57 am 
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Joined: August 5th, 2016, 6:21 am
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Location: Front Range, Colorado
Thanks for the responses. I think I'm going to try the .77" ones and drill out the hole on the catch (not the rv) if necessary.

I like that bathroom door solution. I don't have a piece of wood across the back to mount a door latch on. That gives me a good idea of how I can build one, though.

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"Harvey" - 1994 Chinook Premier, 7.5L V8


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PostPosted: September 17th, 2017, 9:54 am 
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Joined: February 17th, 2015, 1:57 pm
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Location: Auburn WA
FWIW What I use all over my 2004 Premier is the "hook" side of velcro which grabs lik a magnet to the carpet like fabric on the roof. (I also carry a roll of the adhesive hook and loop with me.) A short strap holding the door would be easy to make.

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2004 Premier V10


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