Mor Ryde need repair

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chin_k
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Mor Ryde need repair

Post by chin_k »

When I check out the Chinook, I did not know exactly what I should be looking at under the chassis. After reading a couple posts on the MOR Ryde, I remember than mine looked different, and i take a look this evening with a flash light in the dark. I noticed that one of them is torn. I think it was like that before I drove off. Anyway, sounds like this going to set me back a couple hundred dollars in parts. My question is, do I really need to bring it to an authorized shop to be replaced, or it is simple enough that most mechanically inclined DIYer can handle? I have a feeling that it is not simply jack it up, unbolt the old part, put the new one in, and lower the jack :(

When I drive it, I did not notice big issue, but I guess it is the heaviest rig I own, and just take it as characteristic of big and heavy.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
Rokrover
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Re: Mor Ryde need repair

Post by Rokrover »

I was going to replace the torn MORryde blocks on our 2002 Concourse myself but research convinced me to leave this job to a qualified shop. So I can’t speak from direct experience and shamelessly copy from old threads by Steve and Tom that might help. I’m sure the suspension experts here will chime in with more comprehensive advice.

= = = = excerpts from old threads = = = = =
If you look closely at yours and you see either cracks or wrinkles in the rubber, then they are toast and need to be replaced.  On my Chinook Concourse, they actually failed so badly that the metal plates bonded to the rubber parts bent and tore away from the main brackets.  For mine, Mor Ryde replaced the original parts with some heavier duty ones - stiffer durometer rubber, heavier backing plates and larger mounting bolts.  Required drilling out the original mounting holes to accommodate the larger bolts, but never had another problem with them.
- Steve


= = = = = = = = = =
I just finished replacing the Mor/Ryde rubber springs on my 2001 Chinook Concourse. Mine were only torn 1" but I did not want to wait for a total failure. The replacement rubber springs and now one piece and cost $150 each. Its takes a special tool to disassemble and reassemble that I bought from Mor/Ryde.

Its a compression tool that unloads the rubber springs so they can be removed. The tool only works on the drives side. On the passenger side, the exhaust pipe is in the way. I used a 2-ton cable come-along to unload on the passenger side.

The old rubber springs were 6.5 in length but the replacement springs were only 5.5". Mor/Ryde customer service said the rubber is more dense so less rubber in needed. I would also recommend replacing all the bolts with new grade 8 with deformed
type of locking nuts. Since the springs system is dynamic, make sure that all bolts and fasteners are tightened to the proper torque. The special tool that Mor/Ryde sells is like a big gear puller and it is used to relieve the rubber spring tension so that the long bolt and steel block can be removed that are under each leaf spring ahead of the bushing eyelet.

If you decide to not buy the special tool that Mor/Ryde sells and instead use a cable come-along, be very careful because of the hazard of the chain coming off and releasing the rubber springs that are in tension. You will need jack stands and a floor jack to hold the rear frame up which relieves most of the rubber
spring tension. The remaining tension is released when the long bolt and steel block are removed and allows the Mor/Ryde bracket to rotate on the leaf spring eyelet bushing.
- Tom


= = = = = = = = = =

Cheers, Ted C.
Ted C. / SW Arizona
"The Blue Chook" 2002 Concourse Owner: 2013-2019
chin_k
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Re: Mor Ryde need repair

Post by chin_k »

Thank you, Ted.

I probably will try to do it myself first, and bring it to my mechanic if I hit any issue.

BTW, is there any issue with continue driving the Chinook with one tore "spring?" Besides poor ride, I think it is bad for the chassis because the leaf springs is hitting the top of the bracket. I want to do a short trip next weekend, and do not have time to replace them first. In fact, I still need to figure out where is a good place to order them :oops:
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
Skillet
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Re: Mor Ryde need repair

Post by Skillet »

When I got my Concourse, I had no clue what they were or how bad of shape they were in. I went quite a few months before I got them replaced. Mine were totally shot as well. I called Mor Ryde directly and they got me hooked up with a shop that does trucks and sent the parts directly to me. I had a very noticeable difference in the ride. Going over bumps at an angle or down a driveway, no longer rocked it back and forth like a boat in bad seas. I got a much firmer ride.
'02 Concourse where there's always a project going on...
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HoosierB
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Re: Mor Ryde need repair

Post by HoosierB »

chin_k wrote:BTW, is there any issue with continue driving the Chinook with one tore "spring?" Besides poor ride, I think it is bad for the chassis because the leaf springs is hitting the top of the bracket. I want to do a short trip next weekend, and do not have time to replace them first. In fact, I still need to figure out where is a good place to order them :oops:
My 2001 Concourse was driven from Florida to Indiana with a torn "rubber spring". No problems, other than the occasional "bang/bump" in the ride. Fortunately, MorRyde headquarters is about 20 miles from me and the sales rep got the right parts to the service center in about 30 minutes for the fix. Suggest emailing MorRyde for parts and recommending a local qualified installer. Most "large truck/fleet service centers" could do the work. FYI: have both "rubbers" replaced at the same time.
"Wanda" – '01 Chinook Concourse XL V10
Rokrover
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Re: Mor Ryde need repair

Post by Rokrover »

For what it’s worth, here are some dimensions with the picture I supplied in correspondence with MorRyde to get replacement cost & P.Nos. The attachment got posted sideways for some reason.

MOUNTING PLATES
* driver and passenger side units appear identical
* front / rear mounting plates = 5” wide x 10” tall
* width at midpoint of “sandwich” = 4 1/2 ~ 5”
* sandwich inner plate = 5” x 8 1/2”

BOLTS
* grade 5, 1" long by 9/16" hex, coarse thread
* 4-hole pattern front / rear plates = 3" x 9"
* 3/8" hole diameter

RUBBER BLOCKS
* Stamped BAR 75

I was informed these are the DSR rubber shear spring block #75 rated for 9001 - 12,000 lbs. GAWRR but don’t have replacement cost and part nos. yet. They will ship direct.

BTW, my mounting bolts don’t have lock nuts and were rather loose. I would recommend new bolts with blue Loctite next time.
Attachments
IMG_0238.JPG
Ted C. / SW Arizona
"The Blue Chook" 2002 Concourse Owner: 2013-2019
chin_k
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Re: Mor Ryde need repair

Post by chin_k »

Ted:
My mechanics think he can help me with this, but he want to removed them before ordering them. I wonder if you have your removed, do you think you can sell them to me so that I can let him all the time he needs? I have a feeling that he even may suggest me to get used one to replace mine (the right side is completely tore), but I feel that will be a waste of labor.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
Rokrover
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Re: Mor Ryde need repair

Post by Rokrover »

I haven’t removed my old MORryde units yet. The manual recommends replacement if there is a tear or crack exceeding 3” long and 3/4” deep. My units have some weather checking but no tears, so still have some life left.

I just uploaded the Installation Instructions and Owner’s Manual in the Reference Material section: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=831

Considering the labor involved I think it would be false economy to install used units.
Last edited by Rokrover on October 10th, 2017, 7:15 am, edited 1 time in total.
Ted C. / SW Arizona
"The Blue Chook" 2002 Concourse Owner: 2013-2019
chin_k
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Re: Mor Ryde need repair

Post by chin_k »

I agree with the false economy. If it is my time, it maybe OK, but he charges me $120 an hour. In fairness, he does not charge me for little things, so that is not too bad.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
chin_k
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Re: Mor Ryde need repair

Post by chin_k »

Anyone know what is the stamped number on the Moryde means? Mine says "10" but I noticed that Rokover's says "75." I was under impression that each number identify with a specific model of spring. I am going to call the company and see if they know which one to send me.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
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