Chinook RV Forum

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 Post subject: Re: Mor Ryde need repair
PostPosted: November 1st, 2017, 4:01 am 
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Joined: December 31st, 2016, 5:57 am
Posts: 131
The MORryde manual linked above shows four choices on page 3 for the spring style with two rubber blocks bonded together. They are 63, 75, 88, or 100 for different vehicle weight ratings. The numbers represent the rubber “density” that is related to spring stiffness.

The Customer Service Representative told me #75 is rated for 9,001 - 12,000 lbs. GAWRR and is the appropriate match for my Concourse with a GVWR of 10,700 lbs. The complete part number is DSR108-075 and these are presently $169.99 each.

By the way, here is a Youtube showing the installation process for those inclined to do this at home. Love the bottle jack used - hardly convenient to fit in the Chinook’s storage bin behind the spare!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uRPvBPmSI7U

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"The Blue Chook" 2002 Concourse Dinette on 2001 E-350 chassis w V10


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 Post subject: Re: Mor Ryde need repair
PostPosted: November 1st, 2017, 9:54 am 
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Joined: June 26th, 2017, 9:38 pm
Posts: 98
Location: Southern CA
I called MorRyde, and they said the one I have probably is a DSR-108-100, and I missed the last digit. I will go home and see if I can confirm that it is a "100" tonight.

However, the rep said she does not recommend DSR for RV. She said the DSR series is for transit bus. She said I should get the Mo-25-003 instead, rated for GAWRR 12-15,000#.

The mounting holes are the same, and the MO is compatible with the DSR.

However, my concern is if the MO spring maybe be too stiff for the Chinook. And what is concerning is that she give different info from what they told some of you guys. Any suggestion?

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 Post subject: Re: Mor Ryde need repair
PostPosted: November 1st, 2017, 1:36 pm 
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Joined: October 31st, 2014, 10:25 pm
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chin_k wrote:
I called MorRyde, and they said the one I have probably is a DSR-108-100, and I missed the last digit. I will go home and see if I can confirm that it is a "100" tonight.

However, the rep said she does not recommend DSR for RV. She said the DSR series is for transit bus. She said I should get the Mo-25-003 instead, rated for GAWRR 12-15,000#.

The mounting holes are the same, and the MO is compatible with the DSR.

However, my concern is if the MO spring maybe be too stiff for the Chinook. And what is concerning is that she give different info from what they told some of you guys. Any suggestion?


I replaced mine with DSR108-075 (2001 Concourse), as noted by RokRover and recommended by Mor Ryde when I inquired a couple of years ago. I am quite happy with the comfortable ride. It sounds like she may be thinking of a much larger RV for the MO spring if the GAWRR rating was 12-15000#.

Clay

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 Post subject: Re: Mor Ryde need repair
PostPosted: November 1st, 2017, 2:13 pm 
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Joined: December 31st, 2016, 5:57 am
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Not all customer reps are fully familiar with their line of products and applications. I had to confirm our Chinook application with their service engineer after several back and forth e-mail exchanges. Transit bus is generic to the E-350 / E-450 chassis and the actual spring requirement depends on how it is built up and loaded. My opinion is #100 will be too stiff but maybe a previous owner thought it might be an upgrade to cure mushy handling? Caconcourse also just endorsed #75 so this is a safe bet.

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"The Blue Chook" 2002 Concourse Dinette on 2001 E-350 chassis w V10


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 Post subject: Re: Mor Ryde need repair
PostPosted: November 1st, 2017, 9:15 pm 
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Joined: June 26th, 2017, 9:38 pm
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Location: Southern CA
I took a closer look tonight. The existing spring is MO-25-10 with "10" molded on the side, like I said. It is not DSR-108-100 with a missing zero. I think I confused the MorRyde rep by not telling her that it is actually two pieces bolted together.

So the spring rate is 1000#/inch for the MO-25-10. The corresponding one with the same spring rate is DSR-108-100. If I want to get the MO version that corresponds to the DSR-108-75, then it should be MO-25-008. The GAWRR is 7500# if I read the label on the door correctly. I am going to call them again tomorrow and see if they have consistent recommendation to go with the MO like what I have on it right now.

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 Post subject: Re: Mor Ryde need repair
PostPosted: November 2nd, 2017, 5:26 pm 
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Joined: June 26th, 2017, 9:38 pm
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Location: Southern CA
This is the MO-25-10. You can see it is completely tore.


Attachments:
File comment: You can see the molded #10 on the rubber, although I can do better job on the focus.
20171102_174656[1].jpg
20171102_174656[1].jpg [ 1.29 MiB | Viewed 87 times ]
20171102_174710[1].jpg
20171102_174710[1].jpg [ 1.41 MiB | Viewed 87 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: Mor Ryde need repair
PostPosted: November 3rd, 2017, 8:14 am 
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Joined: July 31st, 2014, 1:01 am
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Location: 1999 Concourse
I don't have Mor Ryde (not all Chinooks came with it), but given the E-350's propensity for a "harsh" rear end suspension (this is not just a Chinook thing, ambulances, etc. also deal with it), I can't see getting a suspension rated for 12,000# or more (?). Especially if others with our Chinooks have successfully used the one that does fit our weight rating. (I mean, unless you have already had the "over-rated" one and are happy with it.)

I know some Chinooks have rear-end sag, but I'm not sure stiffer Mor-Rydes would be the way to fix that (mine has the opposite: rear end is perky, so I either live at a slight angle, or put blocks under the front wheels).

Our rigs have a GVWR of between 10,000# and 11,000#. (At least speaking of the 1997-up 21-footers.) I think it might have been 10,500# early on, but my '99 has a GVWR of 10,700#. I'm typically running just over 10,000#, myself (scale weights).

In contrast, the E-450 RV's I know of have a GVWR of around 14,400#. But they have different parts and pieces (same tires though, which is what I think may be the limiting factor at that point).

It is true (and annoying!) that oftentimes, if you have read the literature and tech info, you know more than company employees who are advising you :? Kinda like asking an "expert" in the paint department a question and to answer it they pick up and start reading the can (um, I can - and did - do that).

BG

PS: I'm curious: Do they remove any of the stock suspension to install the Mor-Ryde? Or is it all still there with the MR just added? Not saying anyone should or would want to do this, but just wondering if one could remove it and go back to the Ford stock suspension. That's what I have (Ford stock suspension - not all Concourses had Mor-Ryde), so I can't see what is altered when they add Mor-Ryde.

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 Post subject: Re: Mor Ryde need repair
PostPosted: November 3rd, 2017, 9:37 am 
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Joined: June 26th, 2017, 9:38 pm
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Location: Southern CA
The part that the springs attached to the frame is removed, and a MorRyde attachment is added so that you can connect the leaf springs to the rubber springs, and the rubber springs to the new attachment point. This is how I understood what they do when they convert from stock to MorRyde.

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 Post subject: Re: Mor Ryde need repair
PostPosted: November 3rd, 2017, 7:30 pm 
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Joined: July 31st, 2014, 1:01 am
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Location: 1999 Concourse
That makes sense. So somewhere there is a big pile of Ford rear leaf connector bits :D

I've considered adding the Sulastic shackles (to my Ford stock leaf springs). In fact, I would have done it when I did my big suspension upgrade, but it was one of those products that is not "Amazon simple" to order. And I didn't want to wait around since it was getting late in the season. And with my other mods, it was much better even without them (but hey, it can always be even better).

There is another way to "calm down" the rear springs: Tow a car. (Unexpected side benefit.) I'm not 100% sold on towing a car, but it's nice sometimes at least (and what a huge recreation gear storage box!). And of course there's no rule that you have to always tow it.

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 Post subject: Re: Mor Ryde need repair
PostPosted: November 6th, 2017, 8:22 pm 
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Location: Southern CA
I think this is a silly question, but where is a good jacking point if I want to left up the back by the frame? I know people usually use the jack point near the u-bolts on the axis, but for the rubber spring, I need to lift up the Chinook without touching the axle. Do I just pick any place on the frame near the leaf springs? The frame beams are higher above the ground after they go over the rear axle.

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