Post project writeups, ideas, DIY mods and off the shelf modifications and improvements. Also "Known Issues" and their resolutions.
November 7th, 2017, 11:59 am
The proper way to go about it is jack the vehicle up and place heavy duty jack stands under the frame. Once the vehicle is on stands then place a floor jack under the axle to prevent it from dropping while you remove the bolts from the Moryde blocks. Once the bolts are out of both sides lower the floor jack so that the springs drop down on both sides. Meaning it doesnt really matter where you jack initially because you arent going to leave the jack in that spot anyway.
November 7th, 2017, 1:07 pm
I'll be using one of those hydraulic jack/jack stand combo, so the jacking point is where the stand going to be. So I can place the jack/stand anywhere on the frame to jack it up, and leave it there? I just want to make sure so that I don't damage the frame since so far, I have never use a jack on the Chinook since I got one. For my regular car, there are specific jacking point on the diagram. The diagram on the jack that the Chinook come with shows the points on the rear axle, but that is not the right place to jack if I want to work on the MorRyde.
November 7th, 2017, 3:38 pm
I got send to another rep, and was told again that the DSR is for transit bus, not for motorhome. The complication is that they told me that the MO25-010 is too soft for the GAWRR of the RV, and they want to give me a stiffer one the MO25-002 for 74k to 90k#. However I would like to just replace one side since the other side still looks good, and the MO series is a bit more expensive than the DSR. Maybe that's why the salesman want to sell the MO series to me?
I am tempted to just get the MO25-010 and get one side replaced, but the engineer said that it will tear prematurely. Well, the good side has been holding up the entire coach all this time (the tear on the other side looks like has been a while), so I am not sure if it is going to tear prematurely.
November 7th, 2017, 5:17 pm
I searched and found the email conversation I had with a Mor Ryde rep when I was ordering mine. If you want I can provide you her name and contact info, just let me know. Here's what she said when I sent her a pic of what I had:
"Thank you for the picture! You have the MO25-002 spring assembly on your Chinook. We don’t use the MO25-002 assembly anymore, so the part number for your replacement spring assembly is DSR108-075. This will have the same dimensions for the bolt hole pattern but the assembly won’t be as thick as the MO assembly. Each assembly is $154.99. You would need (2) to replace both sides (one on each side). Parts are ordered directly through us at MORryde – most dealers would not have our replacement parts in stock."
A few emails later she was able to find the MO25-002 in the warehouse and that's what I went with instead of the replacement series.
November 7th, 2017, 7:24 pm
They have both MO25-010 and the MO25-002 still. They also have the DSR-108-075 that some of us on the forum had.
My preference is to go with the 010 since I just need to order one. The DSR is cheaper, but I will need two. From their weight rating, it sounds like the 002 is the right one, and if I order it, then I will have to order two, same problem as the DSR. This double the cost and labor.
Is the 002 too stiff for your Chinook? I think a softer ride is better, but I heard too soft of rubber, and it will tear pre-maturely. The one on it (010) is probably original, and one of them still look alright, so I don't know if it is really a big difference if I get a softer version.
I just want to get the spring fixed. How difficult can it be!?! This is so frustrating!
November 7th, 2017, 7:49 pm
I don't find it stiff, but then again, I've never driven anything this big and tall. Before I even knew what the Mor Ryde system was I just figured something this big/heavy was supposed to rock around when going over bumps or taking driveways at angles. After the installation I appreciated how it tightened and didn't rock like a boat in choppy waves. I find it drives very comfortably but I have nothing to compare it to.
Also consider the following: I find the Concourse couch comfortable to sleep on\I only like sweet wine (to the aggravation of my ex-wife)\and I used to enjoy the pizza at strip clubs. So my opinions and tastes might vary from everyone else's....
November 8th, 2017, 7:45 am
Skillet wrote:Also consider the following: I find the Concourse couch comfortable to sleep on...
Okay, so basically everything he says is questionable now.
November 8th, 2017, 9:04 am
I also do not feel the jackknife sofa to be uncomfortable.
There is a major difference between Skillet and me: the only reason I went to Larry's is never for the pizza, but for the sweet wine....
(Seriously, I never stepped inside a strip club in my life, but I often go to local bar when I was a teenager to get dunk customers)
November 19th, 2017, 12:59 am
One of the board members got a used MorRyde that he does not need anymore, and he was kind enough to deliver it in person to me yesterday. What a gentleman!
I called my mechanic, who wanted to take a look and asked me to get an used one, but he was too busy until after the holiday. Well, my wife wants to go for a trip since the kids are out of school all week next week, so I decided to try to replace it myself. I know they are not the same MO-25-010 vs MO-25-002, but I think it is better than having no rubber spring on the passenger side. Besides, the MorRyde rep told me that it should only take an hour, two hours max, so it should not be too bad if I need to get two same model later and redo the install steps again.
So I started to work on it this afternoon, and after 10 hours, I finally got it done. This is a lot more difficult than I though. First of all, I have a hard time removing the old spring. Because it is completely ripped, the assembly was all the way up, touching the bracket. I end up using a winch to pull the rubber spring off.
After the old spring was removed, I was able to remove the spring carrier easily. I noticed that the bolt was installed incorrectly since the manufacture instruction says to have the nut between the spring and the tire, while the bolt is facing the opposite direction before I removed it.
I then started to install the used rubber spring on the Chinook. That was pretty easy, and no surprise. However, when I tried to install the spring carrier bolt, I got into difficulty. The side that I am working on is the passenger side, and there is the tail pipe right under neath the spring carrier. I can't put the installation tool properly on the lobes without the pipe getting in the way. I was able to put the tool toward the tip of the carrier, but there is no space for me to install the bolt. I was thinking about cutting the tail pipe off, but decided not to do it because I have other alternatives.
The first alternatives is using the C-clamp as suggested by the installation instruction. However, it did not work well since my clamp was not able to compress the rubber enough to install the spacer bolt.
I then used the Porta Power, and it worked. I used a scissor jack to hold the hydraulic since it is pretty heavy, and I don't want it to rest on the brake line.
If I have to do it again, it probably will take me two hours. It will be quicker if I need to do the driver side, since I can use the installation tool. I learn that I should get these spring replaced before they are completely split, so that it is easier to remove.
November 19th, 2017, 5:40 am
Man, major kudos for not giving up!
It always seems that the actions we think should take just a short amount if time, only would be that quick the second
time around... AFTER we figure out all the pitfalls and tricks
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