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PostPosted: December 12th, 2017, 9:43 pm 
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Location: 1999 Concourse
No sealant -- that's pretty bizarre.

Yes, what I would do is bed the entire backside of that aluminum angle (not inside the Chinook though). Mine doesn't have any plywood inside, just the screws poking through the fiberglass. Hasn't failed, but not overly confidence inspiring. I will have to give them a close look-see as I'm re-bedding a few other things this winter.

I had forgotten you already had the Bed-It. Glad it's working well for you.

Go easy on tightening down, especially if the butyl is cold/firm. You don't want to strip the "threads" in the fiberglass. Once you put some pressure on it (by light tightening) that will continue to slowly put force on the butyl and then you can go back and tighten more. As menyioned I like a small worm under the screw head as well.

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PostPosted: December 13th, 2017, 8:46 am 
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Before I removed the brackets, I slowly tightened each self tapping screw (all same size), they all felt solid. The front bracket above the window was really loose and there was evidence of rust where someone had installed a larger and longer zinc coated, hex head self tapping screw in the lower 3rd of the bracket.

IMO the location of these additional fasteners is a good idea because it eliminates any possibility of the mounting brackets pivoting on the main screws attaching the mounting brackets to the side wall. This could happen if the extended awning was lifted higher than intended. That scissor support is quite beefy and would act as a pry bar causing the bottom of each mounting bracket to move outward. This movement would also weaken the attachment two top mounting screws. A strong sealant would have resolved some of the stress issues using just the main mounting screws.

The two holes in the mounting brackets are square, giving you an option to use carriage bolts for a bolt though mounting option. I think I'll add washers to the main screws. I think the application of the bed-it combined with 3 mounting screws will be a great solution.

Also, after removing the mounting brackets and cleaning the side wall surface, I covered the three mounting holes above the window with duct tape and flowed water over that area. No leak inside behind the furnace, so far so good.

Thanks for the suggestions and advice.

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PostPosted: December 13th, 2017, 9:58 am 
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Location: Southern CA
How easy is it to remove and replace the awning? There are some camping sites that I have no need for the awning, and I wonder if it is a hassle to remove it so that I have less weight to carry for the trip. Don't know if it is dumb idea asking for trouble.

I have not remove it since I brought my Chinook. Will probably take a look at the bracket over the holiday.

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PostPosted: December 13th, 2017, 10:44 am 
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Mine already had three fasteners - as you say, a good idea.

You know, if you do want even more "grab" from the bedding compound, you could use something like 3M4200 (a reasonably strong adhesive polyurethane). It will be a hundred times harder if you ever have to remove it, but it IS adhesive and good quality. If white, it will also yellow in UV, but that likely won't be very visible in this application.

OTOH, the butyl does "grab," but it's just that it can slide, if you know what I mean. It never cures solid. But then too, the fasteners will be in shear in the "slide" direction, so...

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The awning isn't super hard to remove, but I don't know that I'd go so far as to say I'd take it on and off for individual trip45S (which is essentially the same thing) is 43#. I'd be slightly concerned about taking the screws in and out of the aluminum awning case (the ones on the bottom of the brackets) and possibly messing up the holes. But you might be able to overcome that by installing Riv-nuts or something, if you were determined.

To remove it, you basically do the following:

1) Remove screws that go up through the bottom of the brackets into the case (generally one per bracket).
2) Tilt the bottom out and up until the top no longer "interlocks" with the upper section of the brackets.
3) Take the case/awning away as a unit to store it somewhere.

The brackets would stay on the Chinook body.

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PostPosted: December 13th, 2017, 10:49 am 
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On the bottom of each mounting bracket is one screw that secures the awning to the bracket. Remove those screws. At that point the awning hanging on each mounting bracket with the bottom resting on each bottom support where you removed the screws.
All of this is done with the awning in the closed/retracted position.
The next step is to look and determine how your awning hangs on the mounting brackets. My awning has a full length rail with a full length groove. To remove the awning, you lift the awning up about a 1/2 inch and away from the brackets. IMO, to do this safely, have one person on each end of the awning using step ladders or whatever for a safe working position. If you look at the photos you will see the top of the mounting brackets and the leg that fits in the groove of the awning. Really very simple to remove it.
With that said, there is an optional attachment method noted in the instructions. I’ll post my model number to see if yours is the same.

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PostPosted: December 13th, 2017, 11:37 am 
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Looks like we both posted simultaneously (sorry, you were really the person being asked).

The way you described it is the same as the brand new Fiamma my buddy bought last year and we installed (using the 2003 brackets, which were nearly the same as the new ones). Kinda like those tables that fit into a wall track.

I can't see removing/replacing it by the trip, just to save 43#; but on the other hand, I might consider removing it for an extended period of time if I never used it, and/or if I were going to be in "branchy grabby" areas. I don't use mine super often (due to wind that can always come up), but I do use it sometimes, and I'm not that close to being overweight. I also hate scratches, so I don't go into places where it would be likely to be "grabbed" in its case.

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PostPosted: December 13th, 2017, 12:13 pm 
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That's funny, I saw that :D I like the adhesive idea, another great suggestion, thanks.


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PostPosted: December 13th, 2017, 2:26 pm 
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Location: Southern CA
Thank you, guys. I think mine is a regular mounting method version. I think I probably just leave mine on the rig for now.

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PostPosted: December 13th, 2017, 2:34 pm 
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At some point it would be a good idea to remove it and check the mounting brackets, screws and sealant. As I discovered, it is a hidden source of water leakage inside the walls if the brackets are loose.

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