Just to tack on a bit to what Hoosier is saying. In past years, an absorption fridge (runs on propane and electricity) was the only practical choice for any rig that wanted to be able to unplug and dry camp. There was no practical way to generate enough electricity for a household fridge. Solar panels were new/expensive. Marine refrigeration is analagous, except a propane unit is not practical (safety reasons - you can't just leave a propane flame running). For years they had engine driven units in bigger/more complicated boats, and the rest of use used iceboxes (i.e. a box and ice).
In more recent times, boats have more and more begun to use 12-volt compressor driven refrigerators, re-charging battery banks with solar, engine alternator, etc. This has now spread (to a lesser extent) to RV's and trucks. (Although there is a separate "path" that larger RV's are taking which is a domestic 110 refrigerator, a large inverter, and a generator/tons of solar panels -- that's probably not most people's Chinook style.)
So anyway, now a realistic option exists, for the right person/camping style: The 12-volt compressor refrigerator. Common brands are Vitrifrigo, Isotherm, Nova Kool, Dometic/Waeco, and Norcold. These are completely different than running an absorption refrigerator on electricity. An absorption refrigerator is efficient on its native propane, but horribly *inefficient* on either 12 volt or 110 electricity. A major, MAJOR power hog. Just to note the difference.
Is a 12-volt (they also can run on 110) compressor refrigerator right for you? That depends. I think it's something to consider though, when faced with a major repair or replacement (or just because you want to, as I did).
The 12-volt refrigerator will require a battery bank and charging system that can support it. One may choose (as I did) to go a bit smaller than the big 6.x cubic foot model. (I did this for two reasons: #1 was to get that hallway blocking gigantic thing OUT; #2 was to be able to run on a bit less power than a larger unit would take.) I think Chinook's "niche" was to build a Class C for people who had been traveling in Class A's, but now wanted a smaller, more nimble unit, but didn't want to "give up" any of the conveniences (generator, large refrigerator, microwave, stove, AND oven, etc. etc.). That obviously was a great niche, and suited many people perfectly (I thank them as this gave me a nice choice of used Chinooks when I was ready
).
For me, it was 10# of flour in a 5# sack. I felt more cramped than I had in my camper van (2.5# sack)! I wanted a roomy, simpler 5# sack, so that's the direction I have headed. I mostly boondock, and hate generators, so that drove my choices.
Anyway, there are things a compressor refrigerator does better, and things an absorption refrigerator does better. The former suited me better. Reasons for me were as follows:
1) I can power a compressor refrigerator with the solar and battery bank I wanted anyway.
2) I didn't want to worry about fires, hydrogen, ammonia, etc. (not saying one has to worry, but I did. OTOH, I don't worry about a properly installed propane system, whereas others do, so it all depends on the individual).
3) I don't camp on any slant that would bother an absorption refrigerator, but I often PARK on one that would (trailhead, side of the road, etc.). I didn't want to think about that.
4) I wanted to eliminate the large, leak-prone vents (especially the lower one) that an absorption unit requires.
5) I wanted a smaller "box" so my entryway would be roomy.
6) Side bonus: A unit that will fit in and out the rear door, when/if necessary.
On the other hand, absorption units have their plusses too:
1) Almost silent operation.
2) Can be run while boondocking (without generator use) even if you don't have an "improved" solar/battery system.
3) Already there and large, if that's what you want.
I like to run "mock ups" when making big decisions, so for the past 9 months I've been running a portable Dometic/Waeco 50 liter "cooler shaped" compressor refrigerator (originally bought for different purpose, so was already available to me). Set up a portable 200 watt solar panel system, and attached it to my already upgraded battery bank/wiring scheme. My other electrical loads are relatively minor. The Dometic has the same Danfoss 35 BD compressor as the refrigerator I'll be putting in the Chinook (4.6 cu. ft. Vitrifrigo). While the Vitrifrigo is larger than the Dometic, it will also be insulated better, so I expect it to use a bit more power, but not orders of magnitude more. One thing I like about the 4.6-er is that I can have a "high counter" above it, which gives me a nice "set down/staging" area just inside the door and across from the bathroom, which gets lots of use. (If you don't have a generator box there, then a similar sized refrigerator could fit under a standard counter height.)
I haven't had any problem supplying power to the refrigerator plus all my other needs, and my battery bank is back up to 100% most days. When there have been cloudy spells for a day or two, I've maybe gone 1-2 days only getting back up to 8x%, but then back up to 100% on the next sunny day (AGM batteries like to get back to 100% frequently). This winter has been mostly sunny (5 of 7 days, say), but also I'm in a canyon where the sun "sets" just after 2 p.m. I've had the refrigerator set on 31º. I plan on adding 200 watts or so to the roof (I had planned on more, but this experiment showed me I don't think I will need that much - one reason I have been running the mock up.)
Anyway, everyone's needs and experiences will be different, but I thought I'd mention the option, just in case it fits with your use case.