Fridge Performance

[pdemarest]

Well, it turned out to be several problems at once. The relay that controls current from the alternator was bad and some fuse was tripped, so the batteries weren't getting a charge from the engine. And the fridge itself had a bad thermistor. So, its in the shop waiting for parts but I am calling tomorrow to tell them to put in a dinosaur board. Too many posts saying its the way to go for me to ignore it. May as well upgrade will I'm throwing money at it. Thanks to all for your input.

[Manitou]

We need a thumbs up button.

[pdemarest]

Update: Replacing the thermocouple didn't cure the problem but a new circuit board did.

Now, back to work on getting this rig ready for summer.

Paul

[SMan]

Update: Replacing the thermocouple didn't cure the problem but a new circuit board did.

Now, back to work on getting this rig ready for summer.

Paul

Glad to hear it is fixed! (Not surprised to hear it was the board.)

Enjoy your working fridge!

[pdemarest]

Thanks, S-Man - the fridge now gets down to 34 degrees - a big improvement over 40 degrees. It too bad that there's not more competition for Dometic and Norcold.

[RachelKinney]

I think 110 volt will works best for a 3-way fridge.

[Blue~Go]

I think 110 volt will works best for a 3-way fridge.

I've heard that before and I'd like to understand how that's possible. Not saying it isn't but just that I can't figure out how it would be, and I like to understand things.

So, as I understand it, an absorption refrigerator works by a small amount of heat pushing fluids around a coil of piping. The piping surface area removes heat from the refrigerator. The small amount of heat is generated by a tiny flame (and it is really small). When plugged in, the "small amount of heat" is generated by an electrical spark of some sort.

Hence, I don't see how it would work best (presuming you mean cool best) on electricity. The electricity is just substituting for the tiny flame, but the cooling process is the same either way (there is not a special electric compressor or anything like that). Unless maybe you had a refrigerator where the flame was blocked or not operating correctly. Then I could see it. But that would be just one refrigerator that was out of whack.

They are very very inefficient on electricity. I don't mean they don't cool well - they should cool the same as on propane if all is working well - but they use an enormous amount of electricity to do the same thing the tiny flame does on propane. Just the nature of the beast. If one is plugged in, one may not care; but that's why they're killer on 12-volt. They use something like 20+ amps on DC! (Same compressor refrigerator might use 5 amps.)

[HoosierB]

I think 110 volt will works best for a 3-way fridge.

If one is plugged in, one may not care; but that's why they're killer on 12-volt. They use something like 20+ amps on DC! (Same compressor refrigerator might use 5 amps.)

"Hail, the Vitrifrigo AC/DC refers!!!"

[Concourse]

Don't know the original poster's model year so will have to assume

LP and 110V are best to operate the fridge without issue.

The van's alternator should be charging the coach batteries while driving. Turn the coach power on, look at the solar charger LCD display while switched to the voltage setting before starting the van, and then again after starting the van. If the display doesn't change and go up to 13+ voltage then there is a problem with the alternator, Sure-Power box under the hood (right front standing at the front of the van, or the LVD box behind the drivers seat.

Assuming the van does back charge the coach batteries as it should and the coach batteries are in good condition.......the fridge can run off 12VDC while the van's engine is running. I did this for many long days of driving with the fridge on 12VDC and coolness setting #3. That would keep the fridge at ~38 degrees depending on the outside temps. Many of the miles I drove were close to or above 100 degrees. I did have an issue doing this during the 3rd year I had the coach. The batteries, while properly maintained, were then 4 years old. I ended up replacing the coach batteries and if memory serves I switched the fridge to LP.

The reason I used 12VDC while driving long days was that it worked and I liked the idea of having the LP gas tank shut off while driving. However, many people run the LP while driving and only shut it off when storing the unit. Of course you should make sure the LP Detector Alarm is working properly!

[A Rooney]

What I find hard to grasp is if the stock Dometic board is faulty,why didn't the company replace it with an upgrade,you don't see dinosaur boards for Samsung Tv,etc but that said It is tiring to constantly reset the refer,so I broke down and ordered a dinosaur board. Rooney