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PostPosted: March 26th, 2016, 8:29 pm 
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Joined: May 21st, 2015, 7:00 pm
Posts: 218
Location: Indiana
kdarling: you may try "light diffuser film". It could reduce the harshness by up to 30% depending on the matte finish you use. It's used in photo studios all the time. BTW: I believe the light leakage you mentioned is due to the tiny extra space built in the mounting flange allowing for the heat sink to vent heat away. A totally flush fit could result in heat build up between the fixture and the surface it's mounted to.

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PostPosted: March 27th, 2016, 5:13 am 
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Joined: February 17th, 2015, 1:57 pm
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Location: Marysville, WA
In my 04 Premier the only florescent light is in the bathroom. Having the fixtures that use 1156 automotive bulbs I changed them out to LED bulbs a year or so ago. I found the warm white much easier on the eyes than bright white but they were much more expensive. I bought a mix of both and had WW above the kitchen table and couch. Now that the price has come down I just ordered WW's for the rest of the coach.
http://www.amazon.com/XCSOURCE-Replacem ... ge_o01_s00
Not having lights in the overhead and rear closets I installed battery powered LED puck lights with velcro that work well.

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PostPosted: March 27th, 2016, 11:11 am 
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Joined: July 31st, 2014, 1:01 am
Posts: 1912
Location: 1999 Concourse
I love these threads with lots of examples, ideas, and photos. I had been thinking about whether I wanted to re-install the rope lighting that was behind the valance (Concourse). In a way it's sort of neat, but I plan to put back a shorter valance, and not so sure I really need/want to light up the curtain/blind area anyway. I was waffling on it.

But duh, dimmers! I'm now thinking that if I just use dimmable LED lights on the cabinet bottoms (where the Thin Lites were stock), then I can get the mood lighting that way. I think I'd prefer that now that I have considered it.

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PostPosted: March 29th, 2016, 4:09 pm 
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Joined: October 20th, 2015, 6:57 am
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Location: Northern NJ
HoosierB wrote:
kdarling: you may try "light diffuser film". It could reduce the harshness by up to 30% depending on the matte finish you use. It's used in photo studios all the time.

Good idea. I even thought about spraying some of my etched window glass film on it.

For now, I punted and simply added one of the $1.62 (with free shipping!! okay, it did need a $4 CR2025 battery) wireless remote dimmers I got from China off eBay.
Attachment:
led-remote-dimmer-1.62.jpg
led-remote-dimmer-1.62.jpg [ 21.64 KiB | Viewed 276 times ]

The weird thing about this dimmer / light combo, is that if I drop the brightness to zero, it will not come back on until I click the light switch again. I think the light itself operates that way: if it loses power, it does not come back on automatically.

For my use it's fine, since I use the light switch to turn it on/off, and it comes back at whatever level the remote dimmer was last set at. I have set it to 50% brightness, which is bearable and still provides sufficient light.

So in this case, the remote is only being used for setting the brightness level, not for normal on/off operation. I'm keeping the remote control inside the overhead cabinet, so if I want to, I can dim it down for more mood lighting effect, or up to 100% if I really need the interior lit up :)

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BTW: I believe the light leakage you mentioned is due to the tiny extra space built in the mounting flange allowing for the heat sink to vent heat away. A totally flush fit could result in heat build up between the fixture and the surface it's mounted to.

Totally makes sense. Thanks!

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PostPosted: March 30th, 2016, 4:13 pm 
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Joined: February 17th, 2015, 1:57 pm
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Location: Marysville, WA
Just finished changing all my bright white to warm white LED's and am very happy. Much less harsh IMO.

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PostPosted: May 13th, 2016, 7:38 am 
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Joined: October 6th, 2015, 4:16 am
Posts: 4
Location: Satellite Beach FL
I just finished converting all my florescent fixtures in my Glacier to led using tubes from M4. The bulbs cost about $16 each (2 needed for each fixture).

I tried using new LED fixtures but found them to be much less quality than the original fixtures, but cost as much as the conversions.

I am very happy with the results. It was necessary to drill out the pop rivets and remove the ballasts. It took less than 15 minutes per fixture. I used crimp connectors rather than the wire nuts provided.

If anyone wants the old florescent bulbs, i would be glad to give them to you.

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PostPosted: November 14th, 2017, 8:58 pm 
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So I have removed the window blinds and and covers with the existing rope lighting that illuminates the glass by the blinds. What led lighting would you recommend in place of the rope lighting?

Thanks

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PostPosted: November 14th, 2017, 9:35 pm 
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Joined: July 31st, 2014, 1:01 am
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Location: 1999 Concourse
I took mine down as well, so I thought about and investigated various replacements. The obvious/inexpensive route would be the LED "tape" strips you can easily buy on eBay and elsewhere. That said, I never came up with a perfect attachment method (not that I actually did it, but in my searching and buying a few things). The original lights were right in the 90º corner, and most of the clips and frips I found for those strips wouldn't fit the same way. And no way was I just "sticking" it up to wood. I'm sure there are ways (put up tiny aluminum strip, stick to that, etc.), but just saying some of the obvious ones didn't seem that great to me.

I haven't found anything like the original form factor in LED, but it may be out there. I stopped looking because...

In the end I put up new valances (maple) and after not having those lights for awhile, I'm not so sure I even want them. I wasn't thrilled with the little plastic inserts in the original valances, plus I made my new ones shorter (so I could see out the windows better at the top), and too, I wasn't that keen on sort of lighting up the outdoors past my window coverings. That doesn't mean other people shouldn't like them though, of course.

I did buy new LED rope lights for inside the upper cabinets (to replace the originals), as I really do like that feature where they light up when you open the cabinet doors (Concourse). I sprung for expensive boat ones from IMTRA (but I'm used to boating prices :roll: and I knew they would be good and the plastic wouldn't be weird and stinky). But you can likely get them elsewhere for less.

BG

PS: I saw where on a 1990-ish Concourse the same lights (that are behind the valances on later ones) were up at the junction of the upper cabinets and the ceiling. That might be nice, and not be tangoing with the window covering area.

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PostPosted: November 14th, 2017, 9:46 pm 
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Joined: June 26th, 2017, 9:38 pm
Posts: 95
Location: Southern CA
I am thinking about getting one of the solar LED rope light from Harbor Freight, but the bulbs are too far apart. If I have the time, I probably will pull the lamps out and re-solder them closer, but that is not on top of my to do list, and I am hoping to find better alternative before I do have the time to install them.

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