Solar Suitcase

Split from General / Technical for discussion of anything electrical, electronic... 12v, Inverter, Satellite, Headlights, flashlights etc.
deppstein
**Forum Contributor**
Posts: 357
Joined: July 13th, 2015, 7:07 am

Re: Solar Suitcase

Post by deppstein »

Blue...thanks for pointing the way! I just went out to take a closer look at what is going on around the back storage compartment to the left of the rear entry door, and this is going to be easier than I imagined. There is already a handle just to the left of the door that I can use for one end of an upper bungie. And, for that opposite side, I can simply drill (carefully) into the shell above the cabinet door and use the Sea Dog Eye Bolt with Shoulder that you mention...the hole comes out within the storage cavity, so no problem getting a bolt and washer on it from the inside. Then for the bottom bungie anchors, I will use same eye bolt with shoulder drilled through the storage cabinet door itself. Seal it as you describe, and "Bob's Your Uncle!" (British phrase for "and there you have it!").

I do think that is the cleanest and most convenient solution...having the additional advantage of allowing me enough width to purchase the 200 watt portable instead of having to settle for the 160 watt. The panels should be adequately protected from the elements by their case.

David
User avatar
Blue~Go
Senior Member
Posts: 3716
Joined: July 31st, 2014, 1:01 am
Location: 1999 Concourse

Re: Solar Suitcase

Post by Blue~Go »

I sailed with Brits for a few years, so
Bob's your uncle is part of my lexicon. Then you can reward yourself with a packet of crisps :D

In case you are interested, there are just two things in your proposed plan that had me furrowing my brow and mentally changing lanes. One is using the handle as an anchoring point. I'm not sure how far I trust Lucite (or whatever that often-crazed plastic is made of). I'd probably go for a second anchor point, unless there was a major reason not to. Plus then the handle is unobstructed for handle type usage.

The other is that whenever I see something held to a vehicle with bungies, I get away as quickly as I can, for my own safety. I know, semi trailers use bungies to hold their tarps on, but that's a slightly different setup (and even then you do see them on the roadway). I would go for a line (rope) or strap any day over bungie and a hook. I also like to see the end(s) captive on the eye-point (i.e. a knot or soft shackle vs. an open ended hook).

The back of the rig (as I'm sure you've noticed) tends to get pretty dirty - especially in rain or on gravel roads), so maybe a "canvas" carrying case. In fact, if said carrying case were strong enough, you could attach the suitcase via sewn loops in the case. This is something a boat canvas shop could design and sew up, or you could get your own ideas from such. There are all kinds of things on boat decks that are held down by canvas/webbing straps (which you may be familiar with but just for the sake of anyone else reading). That might also make it look like a pair of cheap chairs, or etc. vs an oh-so-handy-to-steal solar suitcase (of course with the price of some chairs these days they might be worth more than solar panels!) (I finally splurged on a Helinox Sunset chair -- after borrowing a friend's a number of times -- and you practically have to take out a loan! But, lightweight, stows in no space at all, and comfy, so no complaints.)
1999 Concourse
deppstein
**Forum Contributor**
Posts: 357
Joined: July 13th, 2015, 7:07 am

Re: Solar Suitcase

Post by deppstein »

My first wife was not a sailor...alas (pun intended)...but she was a Brit!

The handle of which I speak is metal, and quite solid--time tested as a stern line tie-down for the canoe...so we can ease back into the right lane on that one.

But, I definitely think you're right about the bungie cord arrangement...tacky besides, now that I think about it. I will go with cinch straps (similar to what I use to secure the my "extra storage" dry bags to the ladder, if you recall from previous post on topic of storage, I believe). That just means that I will need eye hooks that are slightly larger (for aesthetic reasons).

I don't yet have the Zamp Portable System in hand, so will have to wait to evaluate the suitability of its cover. Logo facing in would be prudent at the very least.

I am working with a friend who does custom upholstering (antique furniture mostly) on a suitable cover for the Copenhagen Wheels (separate for each back wheel so as not to interfere with headlights or air flow to radiator)...I'll talk to him about this as well.

Jeez...I'm beginning to feel like I'm getting close to that $8,000 blender!
User avatar
Blue~Go
Senior Member
Posts: 3716
Joined: July 31st, 2014, 1:01 am
Location: 1999 Concourse

Re: Solar Suitcase

Post by Blue~Go »

Ha, on the blender :lol:

I wondered if your rig might not have a different handle. The Concourses I've seen have a Lucite looking handle (clear) that's lit from within. Kind of nifty, and fine as a handle, but not something I'd use as a tie-down.

Sounds like I won't have to avoid whatever state you are driving in :mrgreen: Really though, you don't seem like the sort who's going to go careening down the highway with an unsuitably secured load.

Once I was driving up a crowded, four-lane highway (the type just packed with cars, shopping, stoplights, etc. and yet a speed limit of 50mph), and suddenly in front of me appeared the most dreaded of unsecured loads: Yes, it was the classic queen-sized mattress on the roof with just the barest hint of twine tying it on -- and, for extra "security," the two arms up and out the window, driver and passenger, providing the required "abundance of caution" :shock: That is, until the thing just blithely sailed off the roof (and it turned out to be a BOX SPRING :o ) and thank goodness flipped and somersaulted in such a way as to miss my windshield. AND somehow my heart didn't stop beating (although it felt like it). I hope everyone behind me and adjacent to me was as lucky. Sheesh. That could have been ugly.
1999 Concourse
deppstein
**Forum Contributor**
Posts: 357
Joined: July 13th, 2015, 7:07 am

Re: Solar Suitcase

Post by deppstein »

I'm happy to report that my new Zamp 200 watt portable unit is working well. Suitcase can be nicely mounted--resting on a pair of dense foam canoe gunnel pads on the rear bumper, and then secured with two Thule synch straps attached using marine quality waterproof u-bolts--one set through the storage door (added another set of "thumb latches" to the side of the door/in addition to locking one's at top...just for added stiffness to the hatch door) and the other just above the door (storage unit provides access to secure nuts on shanks of u-bolt). Blue would be proud--no bouncing bungie to let fly!

The unit plugs in via a Zamp quick port that I mounted in the electrical/water bay--running the wire (fused at 20 amps) inside the rig over the water tank and down to battery compartment. A five-stage 15 amp controller came with the unit, and it shows me volts, amps, and amp hours. I've been getting 5- 10 amps, depending on sun. So feeling pretty good about the whole thing.

Now to my question for the day: After unplugging the unit yesterday, I heard the Blue Sea 7622 "kick out" after a couple of minutes. This made me think that the Blue Sea opens when I am charging with the solar because it senses the house batteries being charged...am I right about this? And does it mean that I am actually pushing some of my charging power to the start battery? When using the solar, the controller showed 13.4 volts. All this makes me wonder if I shouldn't use the manual function on the Blue Sea to disconnect while charging with solar. What say folks?
Thanks
David
User avatar
Blue~Go
Senior Member
Posts: 3716
Joined: July 31st, 2014, 1:01 am
Location: 1999 Concourse

Re: Solar Suitcase

Post by Blue~Go »

The 7622, as I understand it, is bi-directional (as was the original 1315 if that's what you had). It's essentially a voltage sensitive relay. If it detects a certain voltage (13.3 IIRC), then it will assume there is charging going on and thus will open and connect both battery banks. If it detects a voltage less than 12.76 (again, IIRC the exact number), it will assume draw is occurring without charging then it will close and the two battery banks will be separated.

I agree that I didn't necessarily want bi-directional all the time. Maybe it's fine, but...

An Internet friend (maybe we need a word for that) did want the 7622 but didn't want it to be bi-directional so he wired it differently. I can't recall immediately what he did. As you mentioned, there is also the option of manually disconnecting it (but then it's not automatic...).

There may not be a real world problem with the
"house" charging going forward, although maybe if you were running a flooded cell start battery it could lose water? I can't say because I have an AGM start battery (and didn't have bi-directional charging for very long before I replaced the 1315).

I can say that in my experience, Blue Sea in Bellingham have a great tech department and real people will talk to you if you call.

I could look up what my buddy did with his 7622 if you were interested.
1999 Concourse
deppstein
**Forum Contributor**
Posts: 357
Joined: July 13th, 2015, 7:07 am

Re: Solar Suitcase

Post by deppstein »

Thanks Blue, for prompt response. I talked with Blue Sea Tech Support when I was following your lead and contemplating the change from the original 1315. Agree, they were very helpful. I'll dig back into the thread from this forum where specific number to reach them was given, then give them a call to verify what we think is happening, whether there is any real world consequence, and what they might recommend. I tend to agree with you that the "real world" consequences are likely not substantial...I am more interested in finding out if using the manual disconnect feature on the 7622 will enhance charging of house or not. Will report back after my conversation with Blue Sea.
David
deppstein
**Forum Contributor**
Posts: 357
Joined: July 13th, 2015, 7:07 am

Re: Solar Suitcase

Post by deppstein »

I just got off the phone with Blue Sea Tech Support. Once again, Best Tech Support Ever!

I ended up having a conversation with one of the engineers who actually designed the 7622. He confirmed that the unit is combining when I am charging with solar, and that it does decrease the amount of charging the house batteries will receive since that charging is being shared with the start battery.

To address this problem, they said that I should use the remote to send a disconnect signal to the unit (a negative charge). But that won't work for me, since I did not install the remote-electing instead to just run positive wire from the Blue Sea 7622 to the existing combine switch (self-jump start) located in the cab above driver (along with the battery disconnect, and Gen Set start switch). I had previously verified with Blue Sea that this would work to force combine...which is all that I was thinking about at the time. Solar was not on my radar at that time, so I didn't think it forward about solar charging forcing a combine when I might not want it.

Blue Sea Tech Support said that using their remote switch (sending negative charge to the unit) is the simplest, cleanest way to keep it from combining. It simply takes the unit off-line. They did confirm that the manual yellow knob on the unit itself can be used to lock it out of combining...but that the processor will still ATTEMPT to combine every 10-15 minutes or so. I did ask if this would have any negative effect on the unit itself (processor or otherwise) and they said NO. So, for now, I will use the yellow knob manual override the keep the batteries from connecting when I am charging with solar...And paste a yellow sticky to my forehead to remind me to put it back to normal operation every time I pull the Zamp Plug at the end of solar charging. At least that is the plan for upcoming trips. I suspect that an install of the Blue Sea Remote may find its way to my list of fall projects!
David
Post Reply