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 Post subject: Re: Rear-view camera
PostPosted: September 13th, 2017, 5:52 am 
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Joined: May 21st, 2015, 7:00 pm
Posts: 217
Location: Indiana
The positive feed for the mirror monitor has an in-line glass fuse rated at 3 amps for both mirror and camera. The mirror powers the camera via RCA.
So, a blade tap using a 5 amp fuse in the lower left slot, running 16AWG to the mirror (leaving the factory 3 amp in line fuse in place) should work?

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 Post subject: Re: Rear-view camera
PostPosted: September 13th, 2017, 8:48 am 
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Joined: July 31st, 2014, 1:01 am
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Location: 1999 Concourse
That sounds good. OR, you could put a 3 amp fuse in the slot in the fuse block, and forget the inline fuse (i hate those pesky things and their little holders, too, AND their habit of being scattered about willy nilly). Then the 3 amp blade fuse would cover it all, wire and device, plus be easy to find should you need to.

One question though (am I lazy? I could move about ten feet and check my own rig, but, but, it's damp and cold out there by the door!): On the diagram they show wires (or at least sizes) for those empty slots already. I thought maybe they'd have little wire bundles out the back side that one could crimp to. Or can you put wires on the back side? I mean, rather than a fuse tap? As you can tell, I've never really looked (guess I need more gizmos in the cab :D).

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 Post subject: Re: Rear-view camera
PostPosted: September 13th, 2017, 11:57 am 
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Joined: May 21st, 2015, 7:00 pm
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Location: Indiana
Blue~Go wrote:
One question though (am I lazy? I could move about ten feet and check my own rig, but, but, it's damp and cold out there by the door!): On the diagram they show wires (or at least sizes) for those empty slots already. I thought maybe they'd have little wire bundles out the back side that one could crimp to. Or can you put wires on the back side? I mean, rather than a fuse tap? As you can tell, I've never really looked (guess I need more gizmos in the cab :D).


I was curious about that as well. Obviously I have not crawled under the dash to check it out either...the old knees are acting up today (sigh).
It seems that a "accessory out" lug or pigtail should be available at the slot: "14GA prewired ignition hot"

Several options if using a "tap":
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Fuse Tap & Add-a-Fuse Products.jpg
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GTC fuse sockets.jpg
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 Post subject: Re: Rear-view camera
PostPosted: September 13th, 2017, 4:44 pm 
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Joined: July 31st, 2014, 1:01 am
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Location: 1999 Concourse
I hear you on the taps. I have a set of the three yellow ones because they can be good for diagnosing too. But I'd rather go out the back if possible (although not saying there's anything horribly wrong with a fuse tap, but just if it's the only thing on that slot... ).

Still windy/cold/raining here. Hmmph.

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 Post subject: Re: Rear-view camera
PostPosted: September 14th, 2017, 6:16 am 
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Location: Indiana
Somewhat related to this topic...
As mentioned in a previous post, with the removal of the Beverage-Mate, that fuse/circuit is available. The existing B-M wiring has been clipped at the doghouse. My plan was to use it for a hardwire install of a dual 12v/USB accessory port (pic) to be located in the new console. Was the B-M a constant "hot" or a "ignition on" accessory?
Is this doable?
Suggestions, recommendations? Fuse size?
Better alternatives?

Attachment:
12v port.jpg
12v port.jpg [ 33.17 KiB | Viewed 65 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: Rear-view camera
PostPosted: September 14th, 2017, 7:42 am 
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Joined: October 31st, 2014, 10:25 pm
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HoosierB wrote:
Somewhat related to this topic...
As mentioned in a previous post, with the removal of the Beverage-Mate, that fuse/circuit is available. The existing B-M wiring has been clipped at the doghouse. My plan was to use it for a hardwire install of a dual 12v/USB accessory port (pic) to be located in the new console. Was the B-M a constant "hot" or a "ignition on" accessory?
Is this doable?
Suggestions, recommendations? Fuse size?
Better alternatives?

Attachment:
The attachment 12v port.jpg is no longer available


I have that exact 12V accessory installed in our (new) console and I used the old beverage-mate wires. The circuit is tied to the ignition. I figured a circuit big enough to heat or cool a couple of drinks would be plenty of power to charge a couple of phones, so I left the original fuse (5Amp I believe). I also tapped into those wires to power my rear-view camera.
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Console Charging Ports.jpg
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IMG_20161020_120131196_HDR.jpg [ 3.44 MiB | Viewed 64 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: Rear-view camera
PostPosted: September 14th, 2017, 8:19 am 
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Joined: June 26th, 2017, 9:38 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Southern CA
That charging port is exactly what I am looking for! Thanx, guys.

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 Post subject: Re: Rear-view camera
PostPosted: September 14th, 2017, 8:24 am 
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Joined: May 21st, 2015, 7:00 pm
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Excellent, Clay! Thanks for the response.

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 Post subject: Re: Rear-view camera
PostPosted: September 14th, 2017, 8:29 am 
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Location: Indiana
chin-k
Here it is:
https://www.amazon.com/Multi-Use-Vehicl ... +Magnadyne

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 Post subject: Re: Rear-view camera
PostPosted: September 14th, 2017, 9:26 am 
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A friend and I liked the look of that charging port so we each bought one (a year or two ago). Neither of us are still using them. But I'll explain why and it may or may not apply to you. Typically, cigarette outlets are fused to 15 amps. Or, well, maybe not typically, but that's generally considered to be what the sockets are rated for, so you can't go any higher. I try to set things up so I don't have to "remember" that, oh, that particular one is only good for (some smaller number of amps). I don't like to have to remember (or possibly pass on to future owner) special little electrical details.

Well, the wire that leads into that unit is maybe 18 gauge? And who knows the temp rating. Let's be generous and say it's 90ºC. If so then it can safely handle 16 amps in an engine space (i.e. if it passes through any hottish areas on the way) or 20 amps in wide open cool spaces, not bundled. If it's 20 gauge? I don't know as ABYC ampacity charts only go to 18 gauge.

That area is pretty warm, so I'd say 16 amps. That leaves 8 per socket. That might be okay, depending on use. Also at 16 amps/12 volts just that little section of wire alone (IF it were 16 gauge - my calculator only goes down to that wire gauge not 18) would have 8% voltage drop at that 16 amps. Plus the voltage drop on any other legs of the wire leading to the Chinook block, etc.

I took one apart to see if I could add larger wire, but it didn't seem practical. Mine also had a mini blade internal fuse but I can't remember the size. It was a royal pain to put back together. Now what I like instead are similar units that don't have their own cord. Then I can put whatever wire I want on (and whatever length).

I think fusing it to 5 amps is a good idea given the relatively weak nature of the device. That wouldn't work for me because my laptop takes close to 4 amps, and then just about anything else would blow the fuse. (My Beverage Mate circuit was fused to 7.5 amps. Haven't tested it but I would think it would have to be ignition controlled or else the battery would be killed constantly by the Beverage Mate.)

Like anything, as long as one knows the limitations. I just don't want to have to calculate every time I go to plug something in.

One last note is that I don't really trust ANY of those cigarette plugs OR the "wart" type things that go in them to be left charging when I'm not there keeping a beady eye on them. They just get too hot, maybe made with low quality control, etc. etc. So I tend to wire switches such that when I leave the rig I can just switch off my charging outlets (vs. going around and unplugging everything and then re-plugging it later). Of course if it's ignition controlled that will happen automatically.

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