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PostPosted: May 22nd, 2017, 12:38 pm 
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Joined: May 15th, 2017, 6:16 am
Posts: 7
My Cascade is built on a Chevy frame. You have me curious about the house radio. I will have to get above the driver cap through a rather small hole to see what is powering the radio. The actual radio snaps into a base that is mounted on the wall. I am anxious to se if I find power coming to it from the vehicle battery. Thanks for the insight.


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PostPosted: May 22nd, 2017, 12:57 pm 
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Joined: July 31st, 2014, 1:01 am
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Location: 1999 Concourse
Okay, I wondered if it might be on a Chevy chassis. Of course principles are still the same, but it's not like my photos of my Ford negative wires are going to help.

Yes, I had to do a contortionist thing to reach the back of the radio! I can't now remember if I pulled it out and then did the wiring, or did the wiring in behind it. I did get it done though. I used a digital camera to get photos so I could "see" what I needed to do. It was a pain, but only took an hour or so once I got to it.

(Naturallly then about a year later, I removed that whole front "entertainment center" panel and it would have been a piece of cake :? )

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PostPosted: May 22nd, 2017, 2:01 pm 
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Great idea to try to remove the panel rather than climb up inside. Tomorrow I will see if the vehicle starts now that the battery separator has been disconnected. Thanks to all for the great suggestions. Will report in the morning.


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PostPosted: May 22nd, 2017, 4:39 pm 
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Location: 1999 Concourse
Well I wouldn't actually recommend removing that whole front panel just to do the radio. At least on the Concourse, it's a somewhat involved job including removing both side pillars, then fully removing the front panel. I did it as part of a larger remodel, but would not have done it just for the radio.

To me the best two options for just re-wiring the coach stereo (presuming it's up in the overcab face on the Cascade, similar to the Concourse - maybe it's all different?) is either to reach in behind via one of the other holes (I had a removed VCR hole), or pulling the radio out slightly like you would on a car dashboard.

But yeah, maybe the Cascade is different, so take that into account.

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PostPosted: May 23rd, 2017, 7:31 am 
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I am happy to report that I was able to start my RV this morning. Furthermore, I failed to remember to engage the battery disconnect (main vehicle battery) which gives me even more confidence. I had performed two things yesterday that contributed to the success of this challenging adventure:
1) Removed the House Radio due to assumption that the main vehicle power might be used to keep presets in case of house battery failure
2) Completely disconnected both the vehicle and house battery systems from the Sure Power Industries Battery Separator Model 1315.

I am ordering a newer model Battery Separator and will install that. I will wait to attempt to start the RV until the Separator arrives to further test to see if there might still be a 'slow leak' that did not degrade the battery after a single night.

Many thanks to everyone who participate in this topic and your help and suggestions have been invaluable!


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PostPosted: May 23rd, 2017, 7:42 am 
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Location: 1999 Concourse
Good to hear!

Not sure if you have already ordered the separator, but if not, a couple of things you might want to consider:

1) Check to see what type it is. For example, newer types are often "magnetic latching" (eg Blue Sea). That doesn't siphon off power or cause voltage drop, which I believe the older styles can do (eg Surepower 1315).

2) Consider whether you want it to be uni-directional or bi-directional. If uni-directional, then charging power can flow from Chevy alternator to house bank, but not the other way around. If bi-directional, then charging can flow from Chevy alternator to house bank, and from house charging sources (shore/gen/solar) to start bank.

There can be good reasons for either way. In my case I prefer uni-directional because I don't have any noticeable parasitic loads on my start bank, and I don't need/want charging to it from my solar, etc. It gets plenty of charge from the alternator. But someone else might want it that way.

My favorite separator (charge relay) is the Blue Sea 7622. However it is bi-directional.

In real life, since I only combine the alternator with my house bank once in a blue moon (and want them separated the other 99% of the time), I chose to put in a simple, manual switch. Default is off, and from time to time when I connect it (for charging or to use my future alternator-plus-inverter as an occasional generator substitute), a solid green LED light shows in the cab, and a red flashing LED shows in the coach. That way I can't forget and leave it connected when parked. However that's an individual choice, and most people prefer some type of automatic charging relay.

My Concourse came with a Surepower 1315, btw (bi-directional). It was still working when I got my rig but had been recalled. I removed it. In the case of the E-350 chassis it was not in a good location anyway (buried on the driver's fenderwell, exposed to high heat and moisture, and really hard to reach :x

BG

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