If that's the case then I would be extremely surprised if the 800 amp figure wasn't the "inrush" current. That's not something you fuse or "wire" for, as it's extremely brief (if you were going to wire for it, you'd have wires the size of tree trunks). So likely yours is somewhere in the neighborhood of my V-10 gas. It might even be the same starter.reddingnative wrote:Blue-Go-
I do not have a diesel, but that Ford service document suggested that gasoline engines follow the same wiring gauge as for diesel. I have 7.5 L 460 engine CA emissions.
Okay, I looked at that second diagram again, and I do see that you have a 4 gauge "circle" of main wires (plus the chassis). Sorry I misunderstood that. 4 AWG can be fused to 136 amps in an engine space (presuming 105ºC rated wire). Fusing 50% over the wire's rating would be 204 amps. My buddy (also with V10) did try a 200 amp fuse at first, but that didn't work as it blew when jump starting. He moved to a 225 amp fuse and didn't have any problem (but he ran 2 gauge wire, so he could do that).reddingnative wrote:I have 4 wires connected to the positive terminal of my house battery:
1- Primary 4ga. wire connected to the engine emergency start solenoid. (The circle)
1- 8ga wire with two in line 50amp self reset fuses connected to the house solenoid. (Part of the circle?)
1- Wire connected to the Store/In Use switch inside the cab mounted next to the momentary switch for combining both batteries. This wire provides power to turn the house solenoid on and off for use or for charging the house battery.
1- Wire from the solar control panel.
This is very likely why the wire was never fused to begin with (even though it really should be). If wire is too small to be fused, then you have to run it un-fused. As I mentioned above, for me, I may choose to leave something and cross my fingers a bit if I'm not delving into it; but if I'm going to work on it, then I want to bring it up to standards. But everyone can make their own choice on that. I only review it just because it's one thing to make a choice to leave something, but another if it's just unknown that it might not be as it should be.
I like a switch myself. The reason for a remote switch/solenoid was likely just because with a switch, you have to have it close to the battery (because you don't want those big cables to be *any* longer than they have to be). With a relay and remote switch, it can be anywhere one wants to run a small wire and put it. Blue Sea does make a remote powered battery switch (for big boats where the engine room might be "miles" away). It may draw power too (I'm sure they have specs), but perhaps not as much as an older solenoid.reddingnative wrote:In regards to the power draw of the old school house solenoid, I'm thinking I might, at some point add a Blue Sea battery switch in place of this solenoid if it is more efficient.
I prefer just plain switches if possible. They are pretty darned robust, not too expensive, and don't lend themselves to "mysteries" as they are really straightforward. But some installations or owners favor a remote operation.