Help on Surepower Separator auxillary indicator light

[chin_k]

I know it is something that most people won't bother with, but I am adding a auxiliary start indicator light to the surepower separator. If you take a look at the manual (download/file.php?id=1089), it says you can power a lamp up to 250 mA with it (see item #9 in the description). However, this is why I need one of you to help me here.... Can any of you tell me what is the voltage when you measure between this aux. indicator terminal to the ground? When I did it a few weeks ago, there is very little voltage (I was expecting 12 V), and the current barely is detectable with my ammeter. I think my separator is working fine, EXCEPT for this aux. indicator function that no one will use. Before I go off and get a new separator, I want to make sure I won't end up with a new one with the same issue. I want to be able to connect a LED or a little lamp to it to let me know when the separator is connected.

[SanJuanIslands1]

I am new to this forum, do not want to ruffle the feathers to much. I come from a yacht/boating background, where we had good size start batteries but huge house batteries. We would never charge the two different batteries this way. Now this RV has batteries of relatively similar size and type, but to me it is not a very effective way to be charging the batteries. Just the difference in the wire distance between the alternator and the two different battery locations will cause current charging problems. And now with the use of lithium batteries, the issue is even greater. Just my thought. Please don't be offended.

[chin_k]

You are so polite. I don't think anyone feather got ruffled. I need different perspectives and appreciate your input, for example.

I think the boat people also use battery separator too. I *think* the rationale for the separator is to allow the other battery group to be charged when there are excessive power available. For example, my rig is sitting under the sun, and the separator allows the start battery to be trickle charged once the coach batteries is full. This way, I do not have to hook up a separate charger to the chassis battery. Alternatively, when I drive on the freeway, the alternator can charge my coach batteries when the separator combine them. This may allows some of us not having to worry about turning the genset on to charge the batteries when we arrived at a camp site.

I agree that it is not the best way to charge two different battery groups, but the separator does have its utility for these usage cases. It also allows us to jump start the chassis battery without taking out a jumping cable. If I do go with upgrade the chemistry of my coach batteries to something different, I will need to redo a lot of the electrical anyway (different charger, different controller, etc.) so the separator may need to be removed or upgrade too.

[SanJuanIslands1]

Chin_k , Thanks for not sending any arrows my way.

One thing I have read repeatedly on this forum are owners complaining that there house banks are not being charged up. Having seen that RV's in general are outfitted with cheap converters that have poor battery chargers built-in, and the wire length difference between the start and the house batteries this leads the alternator to be fooled once the start battery reaches full charge ( path of least resistance) effectively just a trickle of charging is happening. I am going to install a dc to dc charger, power supplied from the start battery to the charger then the charger will supply a full 40 amps directly to the house batteries. Regards

[chin_k]

Electrical is not easy topic, and most rig owners do not have the time to learn al the details. Many people here will agree that the electrical on the Chinook was state-of-the-art back then, but after 20+ yrs, we have much better alternatives. Many of us had change the converter/charger to better version, and many of us also upgrade the solar controller for better efficiency. Some of the charging issue is related to corrosion and loose connections, and difficult to trouble shoot. Many RV professionals do not do wire the electrical the optimal way, and cause early failure of the batteries. Etc..

For me, I would like to use the existing separator if possible. It seems to have the right specs for what I am going to do, and that is why I want someone here to confirm the indicator light for me. So far, I had replaced the LVD, the solar controller, the converter, and right now, I am doing the user panel above the driver seat and want to keep the same look&feel of the good old Chinook.

[Roly]

Hi, Chin,

Maybe you can ask the Surepower manufacturer. A Surepower distributor could have someone with the expertise, too. That is how I got help for Bogart Industries solar controller and Mitsubishi heat pump products.

Roly

[chin_k]

Good suggestion, Roly. I will give them a call and let you know if I learn anything.