Ford speaker not working

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chin_k
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Ford speaker not working

Post by chin_k »

I should ask it on a Ford forum, but let me try here first.

I was replacing the window regulator and remembered that the driver side speaker only have a humming noise. No voice, no music. So I swap it with the passenger side speaker, and found that both speakers work on the passenger side. So it must be either the radio, or wiring. Do I pull out the radio, and try to see if the radio is sending out the right signal? There are other speakers in the coach, and I have not try to use them. Anything that I should try first? Not that urgent, but it will be nice to get it working again.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
dougm
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Re: Ford speaker not working

Post by dougm »

Might as well while youre in there, yank the radio and test continuity of the speaker wires with an ohm meter.
Flame
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Re: Ford speaker not working

Post by Flame »

I personally don't like the cheap stereo and door speakers in the cab of my 1998. I have wonderful speakers in the back in the coach and a new stereo cd player player mounted in the overhead . I simply made sure I bought a stereo with a REMOTE and I MUCH prefer my music coming from behind me than from those 2 muffled door speakers. Just what I did and something for you to think about.
1998 Concourse V-10 Triton....AKA...Land Shark
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HoosierB
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Re: Ford speaker not working

Post by HoosierB »

chin_k wrote: August 3rd, 2020, 7:51 pm ....I was replacing the window regulator ....
chin_k, any pics of this process? My driver side window won't go up. Motor still grinds on, but no movement. I purchased a complete motor/track assembly and still searching for a removal/installation procedure. I also bought a pair of good Kenwood speakers to replace the in-door OEMs.
Any info would be appreciated.
thx
"Wanda" – '01 Chinook Concourse XL V10
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caconcourse
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Re: Ford speaker not working

Post by caconcourse »

HoosierB wrote: August 7th, 2020, 3:03 pm
chin_k wrote: August 3rd, 2020, 7:51 pm ....I was replacing the window regulator ....
chin_k, any pics of this process? My driver side window won't go up. Motor still grinds on, but no movement. I purchased a complete motor/track assembly and still searching for a removal/installation procedure. I also bought a pair of good Kenwood speakers to replace the in-door OEMs.
Any info would be appreciated.
thx
Here is a pretty good YouTube video of the process. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImQ7zByM2yg
Clay
2001 Concourse
Santa Barbara, CA
chin_k
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Re: Ford speaker not working

Post by chin_k »

HoosierB, I think Clay have a good video link there.

What happened to my regulator is that there is a plastic piece that hold the regulator cable to the carriage that move the window up and down the metal rail. Due to age, the plastic piece broke, and the cable came off so it can't pull the window up. If you have not moving the motor too much, you maybe able to fixed this by adding a metal piece to replace the plastic piece, but if you try to move the window up and down, the cable cassette and/or the cable maybe ruined, and you will need a new regulator. A non-OEM chinese regulator is about $35.

Anyway, the most difficult thing is to drill out the rivets if the regulator is original. You can use the center punch to push out the pin first and skip drilling the soft aluminum. The window is attached to a tap, so the rivet are not directly on the glass. But I would put something behind the carriage to give it more structural support before going at it with a center punch. I tried, but the pin did not come out, so I did an extra step.
Anyway, what I did was to drill out the rivets partially using a CRL "rivet eater", then use a center punch to push out the steel center (it was easy three taps, and it came out easily), then finish it off with a 1/4 drill bit.
Image
https://www.harborfreight.com/spring-lo ... h-621.html

I replaced all the rivets (7 total) with 1/2" long 1/4-20 bolts instead of getting rivets and install them back. I use Loc-tite on the thread.

Being a bit OCD, I put paper behind the panel to catch all the shaving and loose pieces. I don't want to carry extra weight on my RV to cause my MPG to go down ;)
Attachments
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This is how much you need to drill before pushing the steel rivet pin out.  Don't need to drill all the way thru.
This is how much you need to drill before pushing the steel rivet pin out. Don't need to drill all the way thru.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
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HoosierB
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Re: Ford speaker not working

Post by HoosierB »

chin_k and Clay ...
Excellent info and reference! The video link was a big help as well.
Thanks to you both!
"Wanda" – '01 Chinook Concourse XL V10
daltonbourne
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Re: Ford speaker not working

Post by daltonbourne »

I was looking to replace my RV outside speakers, but didn't want to cut the siding if I didn't have to. I found RV speakers from Magnadyne. It fits perfectly on my 2013 Jayco X 23F. I was also intrigued by this product’s built-in grill, which offers extra damage protection. This addition should help ensure the speaker lasts a lot longer than other models. 
daltonbourne
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Re: Ford speaker not working

Post by daltonbourne »

daltonbourne wrote: January 21st, 2022, 5:22 am I was looking to replace my RV outside speakers, but didn't want to cut the siding if I didn't have to. I found RV speakers from Magnadyne. It fits perfectly on my 2013 Jayco X 23F. I was also intrigued by this product’s built-in grill, which offers extra damage protection. This addition should help ensure the speaker lasts a lot longer than other models. 
Honestly, those shipping issues shouldn’t scare anyone away from this product. These complaints were only in a few reviews and sorted out quickly by its customer service. If this model fits your needs, I wouldn’t hesitate to buy it.
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