1998 Concourse - Repairing the subfloor

[LadyBlue]

So, Chinnin-About, how did you get the plywood floor underneath the fiberglass on each side? Did you cut the plywood or did you cut the fiberglass and reapply it?

[Chinnin-about]

I dug out the wood under the fiberglass where possible, leaving the bottom layer intact. The subsequent layers I glued and screwed refilled the gap. If you have to use smaller pieces of plywood, then stagger your seams with each layer. Then fiberglassed the top layer to the shell around the edges and seams.

I don't think I had to go as deep as you're having to go, but there's no where else to take it than all the way. Keep going till you get to that place where you've turned the corner and are headed back.

It goes back together quickly once you reach the turning point. Dont hesitate when it comes to fiberglass. It's pretty easy, lay down the matting and brush on the mixed liquids. Use lots of glue and screws till you get the floor back in. I did not worry about insulation. Triple solid floor fiberglassed to the shell worked.

[Chinnin-about]

As far as the weight goes, I'm at 9000 lbs empty. Coach can handle 10,500.

[LadyBlue]

Thanks for the info. Can you expound a little bit on where you staggered the floor? Do you have plywood seams that are not supported on the chassis frame? I'm also confused on where you put the fiberglass? Are you talking about on the wheel well or did you just go all around the walls and redo the fiberglass to the floor all the way around? We're using cork sheeting for the new top layer instead of the vinyl planking we had before. Cork is an amazing insulator and should act as a nice layered cushion as well.

Thanks for all the info! Every little bit helps!

[Chinnin-about]

If you can get large pieces of plywood in place, so much the better. If you have to seam, strattle the frame to add strength. Stagger the next layer so the seams don't fall in the same location. I fiberglassed the perimeter of the floor to the fiberglass shell. This is what bonds the floor and the fiberglass shell together as one. I also fiberglassed any seams on the top layer of plywood. My finish floor is wood plank flooring.

Good job getting it done. Not many would take this on. All Chinooks are worth saving. The end result will be awesome. Consider your layout you want ro go back with. Lots of good ideas in the archives of this forum.

[Scott]

Not many would take this on. All Chinooks are worth saving. The end result will be awesome.

Inspiring.

Chinnin, since you tackled such a huge challenge, and since this will probably become more of an issue with other Chinooks as time goes on, it would be super helpful to the forum if you could do a thorough explanation of your subfloor repair (unless you already have and I missed it).

I don't want to burden you with a chore, but if you could explain more of what you've done, it would likely help the preservation of future Chinooks like the OP's.

[LadyBlue]

Chinnin, I hear you about the large pieces of plywood. The plan is to use cork for the insulation layer running cork on each side with a plywood beam going up the middle (between) each side and bolting another layer of plywood on to the center beam. Otherwise, there is no way to get the uncut plywood into the cabin. We're using a heavier cork layer (squares) on top of that, so, it should be pretty well insulated, as well as absorbing the noise. We're debating on whether to take it to a professional (boat builder?) to have them do the fiberglass around the walls and onto the floors. Once everything is removed and the floors are in place, that might be a practical solution (as long as it's not too big a drain on our finances).

Would you happen to know whether the big bolts around the chassis are holding anything in place that would be troublesome when we remove the floor?