Nookie came with a female socket mounted on the door and a male end attached to the ladder. It worked as a door holder, and i added a bungee to make it more secure. Not sure if that's factory or someone's idea.
Anyway, the wind got it and did some damage when the door hit the step bracket. I straightened it out and am trying to come up with a gas spring option. Seems with an extended mount on the jamb a gas spring could exert closing force while closed then mid way through opening the spring force would push open.
Any ideas/ input on the free swinging door? I am hoping to put a gas spring both top and bottom.
Rear entry door gas springs
Rear entry door gas springs
1995 Concourse
Re: Rear entry door gas springs
I purchased a rubber bumper and mounted it to the step bracket where the door makes contact so that it doesnt touch the metal and damage the door.
Re: Rear entry door gas springs
On the '99, the stock setup was sort of opposite to what you have (and didn't use the ladder). There is a metal "prong" with a slight ball tip at the bottom of the door (outside). Then, there is a metal bracket that is mounted to the side of the steps and a rubber socket mounted to that. They meet, engage, and the door stays open. However, I use a small Gear Tie wrapped around the prong and the bracket to hold it if it's going to be more than a minute, just to be sure.
The downside to this arrangement is the door only opens just past 90º. That makes it more stressed in wind. Taking the metal bracket off by itself doesn't change this as on my year the "side frame" for the steps still keeps the door from opening much further.
Personally, I wish it opened in the other direction and also opened all the way, but that wouldn't work very well with the space inside (dern).
I've seen older 18+ models that had the door open all the way, but the steps/ladder were more minimal. I do like the ladder.
What I want to know is how the newer Concourses (and Premiers?) work. I have seen the door staying open but there is no ball and socket. I think there may be something in the hinge? How well does it work? Can you trust it in big gusts? Etc.
The downside to this arrangement is the door only opens just past 90º. That makes it more stressed in wind. Taking the metal bracket off by itself doesn't change this as on my year the "side frame" for the steps still keeps the door from opening much further.
Personally, I wish it opened in the other direction and also opened all the way, but that wouldn't work very well with the space inside (dern).
I've seen older 18+ models that had the door open all the way, but the steps/ladder were more minimal. I do like the ladder.
What I want to know is how the newer Concourses (and Premiers?) work. I have seen the door staying open but there is no ball and socket. I think there may be something in the hinge? How well does it work? Can you trust it in big gusts? Etc.
1999 Concourse
Re: Rear entry door gas springs
I use a small piece of 2x4 that I cut at a slight taper, wedged between the door bottom and the step. Pure elegance! 
Sustains gusts just fine.
Sustains gusts just fine.1994 Premier
Re: Rear entry door gas springs
So I guess your door must open past the step somehow (?). Or maybe I'm just not visualizing.
Here's a crop of mine, just for the record. All stock except for the added Gear Tie. As you can see (I hope), the post/ball thingie is on the lower edge of the door, and the rubber receiver is on a metal arm that projects up from the step edge/frame/piece. The twist-tie looking thing that's on the post/ball is a gear tie that I just keep twisted on the post all the time (replace with another every six months or so). When door is open, I twist the two ends around the flat vertical metal arm where the rubber stopper is. Totally bullet proof so far, but I do shut the door in high winds anyway just because even though it won't slam, a door at 90º to the rest of the coach is catching a lot of wind stress. I don't want it to get bent out of shape somehow.
So Scott, do you not have the "side pieces" on the steps? They keep my door from opening much further even if I remove the metal arm (tried it just to see earlier on).
Here's a crop of mine, just for the record. All stock except for the added Gear Tie. As you can see (I hope), the post/ball thingie is on the lower edge of the door, and the rubber receiver is on a metal arm that projects up from the step edge/frame/piece. The twist-tie looking thing that's on the post/ball is a gear tie that I just keep twisted on the post all the time (replace with another every six months or so). When door is open, I twist the two ends around the flat vertical metal arm where the rubber stopper is. Totally bullet proof so far, but I do shut the door in high winds anyway just because even though it won't slam, a door at 90º to the rest of the coach is catching a lot of wind stress. I don't want it to get bent out of shape somehow.
So Scott, do you not have the "side pieces" on the steps? They keep my door from opening much further even if I remove the metal arm (tried it just to see earlier on).
1999 Concourse
Re: Rear entry door gas springs
Mine looks dimensionally identical to yours. I don't have the external door latching hardware, though. With the door open to max, I just wedge the wood piece into the space between the bottom of the door and the tread of the first step.
1994 Premier
Re: Rear entry door gas springs
Ah, I see now. I did take that vertical stop bracket off once and I could open the door a titch further before it hit the step "sidewall," so that must be how you are doing it. I have considered having a welder take a notch out of the step sidewall (then re-reinforcing it somehow, hence welder) so I could open the door further (then maybe secure it to the ladder), but aven't actually done anything about it. My Gear Tie solution works well (maybe too well and I've gotten lazy?), but I still wish the door opened further (not for going in and out, but for propping open).
1999 Concourse