Winterizing question

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maxusa
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Joined: July 26th, 2017, 10:23 am

Winterizing question

Post by maxusa »

I'm trying to winterize my 1998 for the first time. One of the petcocks by the drivers seat is broken so this is what I have done so far.
I opened the other petcock by the drivers seat and the one under the couch. I then closed the valves to bypass the water heater.
Pulled the anode rod on water heater and flushed it. Put three gallons on RV antifreeze in the main tank and ran the outside shower,bathroom faucet,toilet,and kitchen sink pink.
Also poured a little antifreeze in the shower drain.
My question concerns the fact that I couldn't drain the one line because the petcock is broken if the antifreeze will make it back there, the line doesn't look pink but its hard to tell?
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John 1998 Concourse
Manitou
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Re: Winterizing question

Post by Manitou »

I bet there is still fresh water in that line. I had a white valve break open due to a line still having fresh (ish) water in it. It was a cheap repir item and didn't flood or anything. What temps are you anticipating? Could you not replace the petcock "guts" with a wrench? Looks like the assembly unscrews. I would do that before attempting a full replacement due to mounting issues.. or maybe just taking a wrench to it will help winterize it.
maxusa
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Joined: July 26th, 2017, 10:23 am

Re: Winterizing question

Post by maxusa »

I was thinking about taking a wrench and slowing unscrewing the nut on the housing. Do you think the water will start coming out of the top or will that open the valve so the water can go out the bottom of the coach?
John 1998 Concourse
maxusa
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Re: Winterizing question

Post by maxusa »

We can go to 20 below here.
John 1998 Concourse
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Re: Winterizing question

Post by Manitou »

I don't know which way the water would go.. bring a towel.. can always tighten it back down if you don't like how things are turning out.
maxusa
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Re: Winterizing question

Post by maxusa »

Does anyone know where to get petcock and the size?
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Blue~Go
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Re: Winterizing question

Post by Blue~Go »

I've forgotten many things about winterizing (kind of how you forget a bad accident I guess - after years of winterizing boats, cabins, and etc. in -40ºF territory). But one note is that you might, in future, consider not putting any antifreeze in the tank itself. Reason is that it is a real bear to get the taste/foam/etc. out in the spring. Ugh. Same with water heater (which I see you bypassed). If you drain the tank, then it shouldn't need antifreeze.

Many people winterize by pressurizing the system with air first (you can get little nipples that fit on the water fill for this purpose, I believe). Then just putting antifreeze in the low points (traps, etc.).

This article on fresh water system winterizing applies specifically to boats, but you might like reading it anyway. The writer is in coastal Maine, so not the coldest but plenty cold to freeze things.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wate ... interizing
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SMan
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Re: Winterizing question

Post by SMan »

Blue~Go wrote:

Many people winterize by pressurizing the system with air first (you can get little nipples that fit on the water fill for this purpose, I believe). Then just putting antifreeze in the low points (traps, etc.).
I've done this method in my Chinook and multiple other RV's for many years and never broken a pipe. In my first trailer I used to use antifreeze in the FW tank but the process was a pain and the taste.....

BTW In Washington the lowest temps I've faced is in the teens.
Steve aka SMan
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chin_k
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Re: Winterizing question

Post by chin_k »

There are adapters that plumber used to pressure test plumbing with an air hose nipple.

Image

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Mr-PEX-37001 ... gIQ3vD_BwE

I guess you can put a garden hose fitting on it, or get one that come with the right female thread (if one exists).
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Blue~Go
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Re: Winterizing question

Post by Blue~Go »

One of my co-workers made his own pressure/winterizing rig with an (unused) red plastic gas can and a gauge from Mcmaster car. I can't remember exactly how it worked, but I guess he pressurized it first (hence the gauge) and then "let it loose" on the fresh water system in question. As I remember it was around a 1-2 gallon "can." He used it for years on dozens of boats with good success.
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