Propane Tank Leak

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autox
Posts: 27
Joined: October 30th, 2017, 2:35 pm

Propane Tank Leak

Post by autox »

Here is my story...
Working a lot on the Chinook I've been under it and have smelled propane. at first I thought it was the fitting where the gauge mounts to, but after soaping it I found it was the weld to the tank that holds the gauge port. After a lot of research I found that the tank that was used on the coach was a Manchester 18.9 gal, Catalog 6820. It's a 12X42 horizontal ASME tank that is built for lower quadrant fittings, that why we don't see much of the tank and the fill port is very low.
I tried to find one on line so it would be a bolt up, no such luck.. There is a smaller one out there but I think the mounting would be different and I'd hate to reduce the capacity. I called Manchester and the good news was they still make the tank, the bad news was they won't sell to a PP nor will their distributors, you have to go to a RV retailer and by the time everyone gets their mark up and shipping it's $1,100 !! and 6-8 weeks lead time.
I've disconnected the tank as propane was leaking under the coach and that's not a good thing.
I've researched online for any tank like this in inventory or at a salvage yard and no luck again, I guess I'm stuck and cold...
Any Ideas before I say order it??
2000 Concourse,Late 99 build,1999 Ford Chassis
Northern Calif.
windswept
Posts: 11
Joined: October 26th, 2017, 5:50 pm
Location: Amish Country, Ohio.

Re: Propane Tank Leak

Post by windswept »

Good luck on your pursuit of a remedy to your situation. Keep us posted.
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Blue~Go
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Joined: July 31st, 2014, 1:01 am
Location: 1999 Concourse

Re: Propane Tank Leak

Post by Blue~Go »

You might be interested to read another thread which involved, IIRC, one of the fill ports or some other part on our tanks. I think it was Skillet's tank. Long story short, same type of deal, where a call to Manchester revealed the part number, but you have to order through a distributor, etc. etc.

At the time I thought I might be having some trouble with the shut off level dohickey inside my tank, so I tried to get the part through PPL but was never successful. On the other hand the problem turned out to be, from what I could tell, clueless fill employees, and so I didn't continue searching. Skillet was able to get the part he needed through his RV place that was working on the tank, as I remember.

Might not be same part, but the discussion might be useful anyway. I'll see if I can dig it up and come back and add a link.

Okay, here it is:
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=328&hilit=skillet+propane+tank

BTW, speaking of the low-hanging ports, I have found that some places have a hard time getting the long filler schnozzle thingie on and off the tank, because the place they have to attach it is low and angles down, causing the schnozzle to want to hit the ground as they try to attach/detach it. I found that if I run the three right-side tires up on a few Lynx blocks that helps. Even better, when I went to a "real" propane place they have a soft, hose-like extension they can use instead of the rigid filler nozzle itself - works perfectly. Now that I don't have a propane fridge anymore, I can usually fill up there for the year and not have to deal with the other places :)
1999 Concourse
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kdarling
Senior Member
Posts: 726
Joined: October 20th, 2015, 6:57 am
Location: Northern NJ

Re: Propane Tank Leak

Post by kdarling »

Google around for "propane tank repair".

I'd call local propane tank suppliers to see if they know someone who can fix it.

Also call RV repair places to see if they can fix it, or perhaps have a used one of similar shape / capacity.

For that matter, call local welders. They've likely done gasoline tanks and maybe big home LP tanks. It's all the same thing: purge the tank, weld it, done.

---

Plus Google for a similar size ASME tank. For example, Amazon sells the 14x40 version (6828) for $540 with Prime shipping:

https://www.amazon.com/Manchester-14-40 ... B00HTN3GSY

That page also has selections for smaller models. Might have to make up some simple attachment adapters if you don't want to drill new floor holes.

Oh. Hmm. The 6820 is L45. 6828 is SF. SF = Side Fit (valves are 90 degrees on the horizontal line on the side of the tank). L45 = Lower 45 (valves are in the lower 45 degrees below horizontal line). Something to watch / account for.

Kev
Last edited by kdarling on December 7th, 2017, 5:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1994 Concourse dinette, Ford 7.5L (460 V8)
autox
Posts: 27
Joined: October 30th, 2017, 2:35 pm

Re: Propane Tank Leak

Post by autox »

Well I made a decision...
Nobody wanted to deal with repairing a RV tank, even though it is ASME, also there was a fair amount of rust and bubbles, who knows if another leak might come up,,
I purchased a Manchester #6817 off Amazon for $504, it'll be here Monday
The differences are #6820 12X42, 18.9 WC, 15.1 LP Cap, L45 fittings
#6817 12X32 14.1 WC, 11.3 LP Cap, L45 fittings
The mounting spacing horizontally are different but fortunately the brackets are not bolted to the frame but wrap around the frame and are movable.I'll have the tank purged and primed with LP before I mount it. Also got a new snap on gauge with wires for remote reading.
I'm losing a little under 4 gals of LP but I'm sure I'll have plenty for a occasional 3-5 day boondocking, especially in the summer when all I need is the refrig. and an shower. Otherwise can refill a little more often.
I didn't want to wait until the end of January for the 6820 and be held ransom.. "The Mountains are Calling"
Thanks for the input!!
2000 Concourse,Late 99 build,1999 Ford Chassis
Northern Calif.
Fatbinki
Posts: 13
Joined: January 16th, 2018, 4:49 pm

Re: Propane Tank Leak

Post by Fatbinki »

I too am facing replacing the propane tank on my Destiny 2400. My local RV repair shop is trying to 1.-find out what kind of tank I have, then, 2-find a replacement. Any ideas or leads in where I can get one would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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SMan
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Joined: February 17th, 2015, 1:57 pm
Location: 7 Lakes, WA

Re: Propane Tank Leak

Post by SMan »

Fatbinki wrote:I too am facing replacing the propane tank on my Destiny 2400. My local RV repair shop is trying to 1.-find out what kind of tank I have, then, 2-find a replacement. Any ideas or leads in where I can get one would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Well this was recently posted here......

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=100&p=7813#p7813
Steve aka SMan
2004 Premier V10
Rokrover
Posts: 201
Joined: December 31st, 2016, 5:57 am

Re: Propane Tank Leak

Post by Rokrover »

My original Manchester #6820 LP tank developed its second leak around the threads for external fittings. First it was the port for the pressure relief valve and now the port for the level gauge. That’s two leaks too many so time for a new tank, especially since the original passed its 16th. birthday.

My online research endorsed the Manchester #6817 12” x 32” tank selected by autox as a direct bolt on unit having the best compromise in size, weight and capacity. Our road trip style never required the full capacity of the original tank so any opportunity to save weight was welcome.

1. DELIVERY of NEW TANK
I purchased directly from Amazon who promptly delivered a new #6817 Manchester tank by FedEx. Amazon’s tentacles are now into everything and make supply to the end user far more convenient. When I inquired about getting a new tank a few years ago I was told I could only proceed through an authorized Manchester dealer and submit to their professional installation. Good luck finding one in the Arizona outback, where DIY rules the day.

2. REMOVAL of OLD TANK
Just my luck the leak was detected with an almost full tank, so the combined weight of tank + propane was around 140 lbs. First step was to attach a grounding strap as leaking propane made me overly cautious. Then I judiciously placed ramps and blocks to slide the behemoth down after removing four 1/2” bolts securing the frame brackets. There was just sufficient clearance under the fiberglass skirt to roll the tank out without jacking up the vehicle.

So far so good, but now I had to burn off the propane to prepare the tank to be accepted as safe scrap. This took nearly 4 days using a single burner turkey fryer supplied by single-stage regulator. Then I removed fill valve, supply valve and overpressure relief valve for permanent venting. These large fittings were most stubborn and needed a large breaker bar. Finally I filled the tank with water to displace all propane vapor. Even so the stench of mercaptan odorant persisted.

3. PREPARATION of NEW TANK
First I attached the two frame brackets to the shiny new tank as they are hard to reach in place under the RV to tighten up to ~ 60 ft.lbs. Then I laid the assembly flat on a stiff cardboard sheet to make a template with bolt holes cut out. The horizontal bolt spacing was 23 1/2” and the template enabled me to mock-up the best position along the chassis frame rails without interference.

4. PREPARATION of MOUNTING AREA
I also had to remove the galvanized sheet metal exhaust heat shield to cut new slots to pass through the lower mounting bolts for the shorter tank. The cardboard template was again most handy to scribe the sections to be cut out with a Sawzall.

5. INSTALLATION of NEW TANK
Fortunately the lighter tank was easier to handle but still needed blocks and a jack to position so the mounting bolts lined up. This became quite fiddly writhing under the RV and an LED work light became essential to line up the bolt holes. If only I had three hands!

Naturally the tank was delivered containing air and had to be purged properly before the first fill, that turned out to be 12.2 gallons. I left this up to my LP professional at the filling station as he had the suitable hoses and years of experience. It was a pity I couldn’t recover my old propane but I suspect it was contaminated by water and air.

6. FITTINGS
I also purchased a new Manchester G12846 Remote OHM Sender level gauge that simply snaps into place after being spliced into the existing wiring. Fortunately there is no polarity to figure out as the gauge is a simple rheostat. Imagine my surprise then when it read Full on an empty tank! The gauge works by magnetic coupling and the magnets were simply 180 out of phase, so I spun them another half turn with a small bar magnet.

The new tank came with a vertical vapor delivery port, unlike the old where a two-stage regulator could be screwed sideways into the tank for a horizontal mount. I called Manchester who strongly advised against tightening the tank fitting another 90 degrees so I had to devise another way to mount a horizontal regulator. Of course a 90-degree elbow would work but I preferred to locate the new regulator higher up away from road debris. To this end I fabricated a sturdy metal bracket to bolt the regulator on an unused upper tank mount (above liquid propane level) and had hoses fabricated to the proper length for inlet/outlet.

7. TEST
All fittings were bubble free when tested, the level readout on the display panel above the stove was correct and the burners operated with a strong, clear blue flame. The furnace fired right up and delivered good heat. Ahhh, the hiss of reliable gas on tap again for a good cuppa tea…

8. SUMMARY
Hopefully this long -winded post may encourage others who eventually need to change out their propane tank at home. The job is not too complex but requires time, patience and strict attention to s-a-a-a-f-e-t-y. I found the following two references confidence inspiring.

9. REFERENCES

http://www.propane101.com
and
http://www.gasequipment.com/catalogs/Ca ... -Hoses.pdf
Last edited by Rokrover on January 15th, 2019, 7:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
Ted C. / SW Arizona
"The Blue Chook" 2002 Concourse Owner: 2013-2019
Rokrover
Posts: 201
Joined: December 31st, 2016, 5:57 am

Re: Propane Tank Leak

Post by Rokrover »

Oops, forgot to add - I had no time for photographs but Amazon has a picture of the 6817 tank.
Ted C. / SW Arizona
"The Blue Chook" 2002 Concourse Owner: 2013-2019
chin_k
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Re: Propane Tank Leak

Post by chin_k »

Too bad you have to waste the full tank. Maybe some greenhouse people locally who can take advantage of the CO2 if you look around, but I think what you did was the safer way to get rid of it.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
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