Concourse Entry Door guts
Re: Concourse Entry Door guts
Thank you Doug, for the info. Mine is exactly the same as Blue's, with the door being held with a rubber stopper attached to the corner of the step. It also do not have electric step and solenoid for locking the door. It would be great if it has these features, since every time I have to deploy/fold the step, and lock /unlock my passengers out of the back door by walking all the way there.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
Re: Concourse Entry Door guts
I like the manual step, but they each have plusses and minuses. For me it's both the simplicity and the fact that the top step is not so close to the level of the first step inside the Chinook (I think they had to raise the whole works up to minimize the effect on departure angle of the lower electric step). But then if I had found a Chinook the same as mine but with the electric step I wouldn't have turned it down either.
Anyway, on the subject of the door staying open: For those who have the vertical tang/post setup like my '99, I have found that a 6" gear tie wrapped once around the post (in the center of the tie) stays there through all driving conditions and then when I want to hold the door open (more than just the post will) I can wrap it around the vertical tang (then twist it like a bread twistie) and it's very sturdy. With regular usage each gear tie lasts a few months. I thought up all kinds of complicated solutions but in the end this one works a treat (and I find it more desirable than something like a long bungie around the door handle). Buy a few packs of gear ties and I'm good for years.
Anyway, on the subject of the door staying open: For those who have the vertical tang/post setup like my '99, I have found that a 6" gear tie wrapped once around the post (in the center of the tie) stays there through all driving conditions and then when I want to hold the door open (more than just the post will) I can wrap it around the vertical tang (then twist it like a bread twistie) and it's very sturdy. With regular usage each gear tie lasts a few months. I thought up all kinds of complicated solutions but in the end this one works a treat (and I find it more desirable than something like a long bungie around the door handle). Buy a few packs of gear ties and I'm good for years.
Last edited by Blue~Go on November 9th, 2018, 10:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
1999 Concourse
Re: Concourse Entry Door guts
your lock assembly will most likely be the same, just omit disconnecting the solenoid linkage. I removed the lower electric step on mine completely. once i park i just flip the kneeler valve switch on the dash and it exhausts all the air out of the rear suspension and lowers the back of the truck.
Re: Concourse Entry Door guts
Air suspension does have its advantages
Thanks again for the tips. I may be back to ask something once I'm actually doing the project
Thanks again for the tips. I may be back to ask something once I'm actually doing the project
1999 Concourse
Re: Concourse Entry Door guts
If you happen across an interior rear door panel for a 2005 Concourse let me know. Im most likely gonna have to try to make one from fiberglass because to date i have been unable to locate one. I dont even know if i can make a mold from my existing panel because its so thin and flimsy i may never get it to lay flat, square enough to make a mold.
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Re: Concourse Entry Door guts
Thanks for posting those pics. Awhile back I looked online at handles/locks, I found a similar lock/handle unit, but it was the outside only for ~$110.
Is it possible to have the cores replaced at a locksmith? Probably cheaper to just buy a new handle? I only have one key, for the lower lock, and it's a bit iffy as-is.
Is it possible to have the cores replaced at a locksmith? Probably cheaper to just buy a new handle? I only have one key, for the lower lock, and it's a bit iffy as-is.
Former owner of a 2000 Chinook Premier, V-10, with no Interior...
Re: Concourse Entry Door guts
I think if you take the assembly out of the door and hand it to the locksmith they should be able to replace the key cylinders easy enough. But beyond that there isnt much you can do with them because everything is riveted on the back side.
The Chinooks require the long deadbolt so pay attention to that when ordering or searching for one. The one i bought had the short deadbolt so i had to remove that gold plate and install my old rod and then reattach the plate. But i got the complete TriMark key side and handle side brand new for like $99 so it was worth it.
The Chinooks require the long deadbolt so pay attention to that when ordering or searching for one. The one i bought had the short deadbolt so i had to remove that gold plate and install my old rod and then reattach the plate. But i got the complete TriMark key side and handle side brand new for like $99 so it was worth it.
Re: Concourse Entry Door guts
Is yours molded or does it have some kind of shape? I ask because mine is 100% flat. It looks like maybe some kind of fiberglass panel, but shape-wise, it could just as well be a sheet of plywood with cutouts for the window, etc. (not saying it is, or that you should use plywood, but just to explain that that is how flat it is).
1999 Concourse
Re: Concourse Entry Door guts
for the most part it could be flat, with the exception of where the window is located, it has an edge that is bowled in towards the window at about 90 degrees all around the window perimeter. I guess a better word would be rolled in towards the window, because its curved not a sharp 90 degrees
Re: Concourse Entry Door guts
Me again! Pulling up old posts. Keepin it fresh. Just tell me when you grow weary of the new guy!
Anyone know how you can adjust the rear door latch to make it a tighter close? Just found where one of my major rattles is coming from.
Anyone know how you can adjust the rear door latch to make it a tighter close? Just found where one of my major rattles is coming from.
Last edited by FatBuoy on May 11th, 2020, 3:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
2001 Premier aka "Anookie"
Dallas, TX area
Dallas, TX area