Additional Outside storage solutions
Re: Additional Outside storage solutions
Last the storage pics...the removed generator storage
Re: Additional Outside storage solutions
David, did you reinforce the rail around the top with anything? I would like to mount something on it, but was told it is decorative purpose only.
For the air scoop, I would use galvanized air duct. It enables you to have more flexibility in the angle, and cross section design. I have a feeling that the air cooling concern is either very minor in the first place, or it can more simply solved with a flip of metal like a snow plow/cow catcher. If I do end up with a front hitch, I will definitely do some experiment.
For the air scoop, I would use galvanized air duct. It enables you to have more flexibility in the angle, and cross section design. I have a feeling that the air cooling concern is either very minor in the first place, or it can more simply solved with a flip of metal like a snow plow/cow catcher. If I do end up with a front hitch, I will definitely do some experiment.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
Re: Additional Outside storage solutions
I'm the one who said that (although I did say others had used it successfully for loads - I was thinking of deppstein). So it's obviously open for debate and someone has done it and is here to tell about it. My main concern would be core damage due to wiggling #8 screws causing leaks, but maybe it would never happen or maybe the rig would be long in the junkyard by then. Next would be strength (but the load is spread out so that's secondary). I wouldn't load it up with anything without modifying it (or at least the fasteners/coring/attachment) but that's me.
I haven't had any cooling problems with the tire up front, so if that's what you are thinking of it should be fine. But the bicycles might block more airflow.
deppstein: What I found is that less airflow (not from my tire but from a large transmission cooler I have mounted right in front of the radiator that both blocks airflow plus shoves heated air into the radiator), doesn't exactly just raise the coolant temp. I mean it does, but the way it manifests itself is that the cooling fan will come on more often (to maintain the same coolant temp). In my case that would be, say, pulling a big pass towing a trailer on a hot day. In "normal" driving it's no different. I decided it was worth it because the engine *can* turn the fan on to cool down whereas the transmission can't. But with the tire alone I didn't notice a change even pulling a pass at over 100ºF. For all I know it somehow sucks more air in as it rushes around the tire (no idea).
Also: Can you please tell more about removing your generator? I have read about a couple of others, but at least one of them had a different door/box type. Plus I guess I need more encouragement/info to get started. I can't believe I haven't done that yet. The Stoooooorage!!!!
1999 Concourse
Re: Additional Outside storage solutions
Chin_k--thanks for the suggestion to use galvanized air duct for my "rube-goldberg supercharger." I got the gentle-angle 90 degree pvc curve in effort to minimize air flow disturbance. I'm waiting for some warmer weather up here in New England to get decent comparison scan gauge reading of transmission fluid temp with and without bikes (with covers) on and off. Will report out as the opportunity presents itself. The air-scoop/snow plow/cow catcher seems to be another viable option, if what I have doesn't do the job.
This all came about because I lost the transmission in the mountains outside of Santa Fe on our trip this fall. Had to spend a week in Santa Fe waiting for a new tranny with cooler. Thank goodness we were camped at Hyde Memorial Park just outside of Santa Fe, instead where we had been in the middle of nowhere Utah around Grand Staircase/Escalante. The guy who towed us out with a big wrecker was a MASTER. Out of a campsite at 8,000 ft on a winding dirt road. He disconnected the drive shaft and played the Rig up and down like a maestro. No damage to dump valves or anything! And the folks at Hal Burns that did the tranny work were also terrific. Had to install a Jasper rather than a Ford due to the fact that I would have had to wait 3 weeks for the Ford Tranny. Made the 3,000 mile run back home without incident. Once home had it all checked 0out by my own Ford mechanic, who gave me a clean bill of health.
My concern here is more with the trans fluid temp than the radiator coolant temp. As Blue points out, the radiator has a fan to compensate. The trans cooler I have is mounted to the side of the radiator and does not have a fan. And, I can't be sure it was an air flow issue from the bikes covering the radiator and trans cooler...mechanic said it could just as easily have been due to the fact that I "downshifted" too suddenly while going down the numerous mountain passes we negotiated throughout Colorado and Utah. Learned an important lesson--Put it in 2nd gear BEFORE starting down the mountain!!!! Won't do that again. But since I needed a winter project, decided that addressing air flow and monitoring with scan gauge couldn't hurt.
Back to the roof rack and rail assembly--Usually, I follow Blue-Go's advice...he knows way more than I do about all things mechanical and electrical...but I decided to take a chance on the rail. I tested and monitored the foot attachment to the rail (and still check it often), and so far it has held up fine. Maybe its because the boats are securely strapped to the cross bars--taking the stress off of the footing/rail assembly...I don't know--but four years and 40,000 miles later, I can tell you that it is still solid, and there is no evidence of leaks or screws pulling out.
Blue-Go--regarding my pulling of the Genset. My rig is a 2004 Premier and the Genset was located on passenger side rear behind the back wheels (below the frig guts). It was a 4000 watt gas, not propane with a compartment door that is hinged at the top and swings upward. To remove it, I worked a sweet deal with my local RV repair place-They would remove the Genset, cap all lines and connections at no cost to me, in exchange for my giving them the Genset. It was in mint condition of course, since I never used it, and only ran it every couple of months for an hour or so to keep it in shape. Both of us were happy with the deal. So, I was left with an empty galvanized box that was well sealed on sides and top. The bottom was very solid, with a couple of holes for lines, and an open square about 10" by 10" in the back front corner. I dealt with the hole by attaching four "L" brackets (2 each side) to the sides of the compartment that would support the 1/2" marine ply flooring as it overlapped the hole. I laid the floor in four pieces (you can see the cuts in the pic), which made it easier to install--the box is NOT uniform, so template and careful cutting is necessary. When weather warms, I'll calk around the edges. And for additional weatherproofing of the compartment, I have templated and cut plexiglass to fit the two wire mesh openings on either side of the compartment door. I'll calk those in as well. I'm really happy about this new storage! So useful--bike gear, fly fishing waders, leveling blocks, extra water...with room to spare! We won't know what to do with all the room we will now have inside (particularly under the dinette, where we tend to put things that have no where else to go). Hope this helps...you should definitely do it!
This all came about because I lost the transmission in the mountains outside of Santa Fe on our trip this fall. Had to spend a week in Santa Fe waiting for a new tranny with cooler. Thank goodness we were camped at Hyde Memorial Park just outside of Santa Fe, instead where we had been in the middle of nowhere Utah around Grand Staircase/Escalante. The guy who towed us out with a big wrecker was a MASTER. Out of a campsite at 8,000 ft on a winding dirt road. He disconnected the drive shaft and played the Rig up and down like a maestro. No damage to dump valves or anything! And the folks at Hal Burns that did the tranny work were also terrific. Had to install a Jasper rather than a Ford due to the fact that I would have had to wait 3 weeks for the Ford Tranny. Made the 3,000 mile run back home without incident. Once home had it all checked 0out by my own Ford mechanic, who gave me a clean bill of health.
My concern here is more with the trans fluid temp than the radiator coolant temp. As Blue points out, the radiator has a fan to compensate. The trans cooler I have is mounted to the side of the radiator and does not have a fan. And, I can't be sure it was an air flow issue from the bikes covering the radiator and trans cooler...mechanic said it could just as easily have been due to the fact that I "downshifted" too suddenly while going down the numerous mountain passes we negotiated throughout Colorado and Utah. Learned an important lesson--Put it in 2nd gear BEFORE starting down the mountain!!!! Won't do that again. But since I needed a winter project, decided that addressing air flow and monitoring with scan gauge couldn't hurt.
Back to the roof rack and rail assembly--Usually, I follow Blue-Go's advice...he knows way more than I do about all things mechanical and electrical...but I decided to take a chance on the rail. I tested and monitored the foot attachment to the rail (and still check it often), and so far it has held up fine. Maybe its because the boats are securely strapped to the cross bars--taking the stress off of the footing/rail assembly...I don't know--but four years and 40,000 miles later, I can tell you that it is still solid, and there is no evidence of leaks or screws pulling out.
Blue-Go--regarding my pulling of the Genset. My rig is a 2004 Premier and the Genset was located on passenger side rear behind the back wheels (below the frig guts). It was a 4000 watt gas, not propane with a compartment door that is hinged at the top and swings upward. To remove it, I worked a sweet deal with my local RV repair place-They would remove the Genset, cap all lines and connections at no cost to me, in exchange for my giving them the Genset. It was in mint condition of course, since I never used it, and only ran it every couple of months for an hour or so to keep it in shape. Both of us were happy with the deal. So, I was left with an empty galvanized box that was well sealed on sides and top. The bottom was very solid, with a couple of holes for lines, and an open square about 10" by 10" in the back front corner. I dealt with the hole by attaching four "L" brackets (2 each side) to the sides of the compartment that would support the 1/2" marine ply flooring as it overlapped the hole. I laid the floor in four pieces (you can see the cuts in the pic), which made it easier to install--the box is NOT uniform, so template and careful cutting is necessary. When weather warms, I'll calk around the edges. And for additional weatherproofing of the compartment, I have templated and cut plexiglass to fit the two wire mesh openings on either side of the compartment door. I'll calk those in as well. I'm really happy about this new storage! So useful--bike gear, fly fishing waders, leveling blocks, extra water...with room to spare! We won't know what to do with all the room we will now have inside (particularly under the dinette, where we tend to put things that have no where else to go). Hope this helps...you should definitely do it!
Re: Additional Outside storage solutions
Ah, gotcha on the trans temp. Well, I can tell you that with my transmission cooler (not a difficult install - I did have a shop do it but I helped), that transmission is cool as a cucumber. I've pulled 9,000' passes on very hot days towing a trailer and not broken about 185º. Normally it's cooler. Actually, it might run too cool if I drove in very cold temperatures (not sure). I do know some other folks with V-10s and heavy loads (we are somewhat of a heavy load even without towing) who run the same cooler and report similar results. If you are interested, I can let you know the model.
I don't think downshifting on hills should cause a good transmission to break. If so, mine would have broken long ago. I mean sure, I don't go 80mph and then dump it suddenly into 2nd gear; but it's not like I can't easily downshift in the middle of a downhill pass (or anywhere else I want to). OD to 3rd, 3rd to 2nd, 2nd to 1st -- all are available. I go by what will the RPM be after the downshift (that's more about the engine, and even then, the V-10 likes to rev much more than I could ever want to listen to).
When I was at John Wood, the impression I got was that the weak points were the snap ring (that's what had loosened on mine, nothing to do with driving style but more a design thing - it was like that when I bought it and previous owner was a Grampa who lived in a perfectly flat part of the country and drove it to square dances
), the planetary gear for the overdrive (don't lug it in OD), and a couple of other things I don't remember (but nothing was ever said about downshifting, and we discussed trailering and hills and etc.).
Thanks for the info on the genset removal. Sounds like you have the exact same arrangement as me. Same location, same box. Onan 4000 gas generator. I have no idea why I have not removed that thing! Thanks for the encouragement. Clearly I need it! Or really what I need is a forklift
I don't think downshifting on hills should cause a good transmission to break. If so, mine would have broken long ago. I mean sure, I don't go 80mph and then dump it suddenly into 2nd gear; but it's not like I can't easily downshift in the middle of a downhill pass (or anywhere else I want to). OD to 3rd, 3rd to 2nd, 2nd to 1st -- all are available. I go by what will the RPM be after the downshift (that's more about the engine, and even then, the V-10 likes to rev much more than I could ever want to listen to).
When I was at John Wood, the impression I got was that the weak points were the snap ring (that's what had loosened on mine, nothing to do with driving style but more a design thing - it was like that when I bought it and previous owner was a Grampa who lived in a perfectly flat part of the country and drove it to square dances
), the planetary gear for the overdrive (don't lug it in OD), and a couple of other things I don't remember (but nothing was ever said about downshifting, and we discussed trailering and hills and etc.).Thanks for the info on the genset removal. Sounds like you have the exact same arrangement as me. Same location, same box. Onan 4000 gas generator. I have no idea why I have not removed that thing! Thanks for the encouragement. Clearly I need it! Or really what I need is a forklift
1999 Concourse
Re: Additional Outside storage solutions
I am confused. I don't remember a "3" on the shifter. Is it just "D" with the overdrive off? I should spend more time in my rig, since I don't remember this simple thing.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
Re: Additional Outside storage solutions
No you are right, there is no numeral 3. D is third gear though. So you have 1, 2, D (3) and OD (sort of 4).
What I wish I had was a 2.5. That would be nice for climbing and descending. I was all interested when I learned that the newer transmission that came out in 2005 or 2006 had an extra gear, but then I read that it was between 1 and 2. I don't really feel like I need another one there though.
Oh well, I get by just fine with my 3 plus OD. (I recently drove a buddy's truck with a TEN speed automatic transmission. Funny thing is I would rather tow with my Chinook because his engine had very little engine braking which was a bummer on hills. I had to brake a lot which isn't a great feeling.)
What I wish I had was a 2.5. That would be nice for climbing and descending. I was all interested when I learned that the newer transmission that came out in 2005 or 2006 had an extra gear, but then I read that it was between 1 and 2. I don't really feel like I need another one there though.
Oh well, I get by just fine with my 3 plus OD. (I recently drove a buddy's truck with a TEN speed automatic transmission. Funny thing is I would rather tow with my Chinook because his engine had very little engine braking which was a bummer on hills. I had to brake a lot which isn't a great feeling.)
1999 Concourse
Re: Additional Outside storage solutions
I never turn off the OD, and did not realize I should before shifting to 2. It make sense when I think about it. So far, I did not see transmission temperature issue when I monitoring it on the scan gauge, so maybe I am lucky so far.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
Re: Additional Outside storage solutions
Blue...Thanks for making me feel a little less foolish than I have been feeling regarding my downshifting in the middle of my way down. Who knows, maybe this "Supercahrger" thing and slower going from the top of the hill won't really matter in the end. But, what the hell...I've built the supercharger, and have the scan gauge to monitor both engine and trans temp, so we'll see what happens. If I can keep trans temp below 190 degrees, I'll be happy. If not, next step will be to come back to you for more info on that larger tranny cooler you mentioned.
...and yes--trading the Genset for more storage (given how we use our Rigs) is well worth it. Can't remember if you have one or not, but the portable Honda Inverter generators (1000 or 2000 depending on need) are terrific...and oh so much more quiet than those onboard beasts. Coupled with a smart charger (I have the NOCO Genius 15000), its a great way to top off battery bank (or my Copenhagen Wheels) on a cloudy day in the middle of nowhere.
David
...and yes--trading the Genset for more storage (given how we use our Rigs) is well worth it. Can't remember if you have one or not, but the portable Honda Inverter generators (1000 or 2000 depending on need) are terrific...and oh so much more quiet than those onboard beasts. Coupled with a smart charger (I have the NOCO Genius 15000), its a great way to top off battery bank (or my Copenhagen Wheels) on a cloudy day in the middle of nowhere.
David
Re: Additional Outside storage solutions
If I said that I didn't mean to, specifically. True, I usually will have taken OD off first (before going into 2nd), because that's my first move in a down or uphill situation. But is it required? My guess is that if you go from OD to 2nd the OD will switch off automatically. I just don't think I've ever tried it, because in all situations that require 2nd I've already been out of OD. I notice that the OD can have the RPM's a bit lower than I'd like for situations where the rig is "working." So I use the OD button quite a bit to tailor things.
(In contrast, my buddy with the same V-10 and 4R100 transmission but in a bigger, heavier Class C had lower rear-end gearing (larger number). We often caravanned. At same speeds in the same place, he would come out of OD much less often because he was always at higher RPM's -- even in OD. I actually prefer ours, because I WANT a high-geared OD that spins at low RPMs, and I can easily pop that button when I want "less overdrive.")
1999 Concourse