Adding an outdoor shower to a Premier

[FatBuoy]

I haven’t had much run time in mine yet, so not sure if mine is getting wet back there or not. Where is the water coming from?

[Blue~Go]

I would guess the typical "nuisance" ingress is around the hatch door seal (black rubber D-shape on mine). Other possibilities are around the hatch frame (means it needs re-bedding), around marker lights (same), around the waste tank vent on the roof (could be broken plastic or need re-bedding), or from a plumbing leak (either supply or drain), taillight, or black tank flush fitting. But I'd guess 75% of the time it would be the hatch gasket (could fail, come un-glued, or get grit or something in it).

Another factor could be that in my era, that hatch has the hinge at the top and the rotating lock arms at the bottom. Later ones like Smans, have the hinge on the bottom and the lock arms at the top. I'd think the hinge side of the gasket on a hinged door might seal tighter, especially since those lock arms aren't exactly engineering works of art. (On mine the battery/storage door has the hinge on the bottom and locks on the top and that does let a few drops of water in in certain rains.)

[Pumpkin rider]

If you click on the image, it blows up and turns to the correct orientation.

[FatBuoy]

HUGE favor to ask someone who has a Concourse with the outdoor shower in the water/electric door. I have the shower, with quick disconnect 15ft' hose that I've decided to install there. Any way you could take a picture of the backside of the system? It's under the sink, behind the top pullout drawer. And if you know of a good source for the fittings I would need to tap into the hot/cold line- safely. If they broke loose, it would be a huge mess.

And if anyone has a good outside shower enclosure idea, that would be appreciated as well. I have a free standing shower, but it's got poles and is bulky for travel. Something that attaches to the RV on the outside, without drilling, would be perfect. They have a u-shaped bar, with suction cups, but it seems pretty unstable. But something like that. Leaving next Thursday on out trip so it's CRUNCH TIME!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073R6NGKW/re ... WMCCI&th=1

[chin_k]

So your current plan is to add the shower in the All-in-one access panel? I do not have that setup, so I don't know how difficult it is. It will be easier to add the show to the back where Pumpkin rider did, since there is more room to work with.

Generally speaking, you need to cut the cold and hot water pipes, add a tee and a shutoff valve on each pipe. If you are doing it in the access panel, then you have to cut a big hole on the inside woodwork to access the panel so that you can mount the shower faucet, which probably mounted with two holes or a single hole like a regular bathroom faucet. If you are doing it on the back, then it is easier with more room, etc. I don't think you really need to have a picture to get it done, you just have to do the typical connection as if it is a regular bathroom.

When you are done with shower, just shut off the water from the faucet and there is no worry about special adapter that prevent leak. But the water in the long 15 feet hose will need to go somewhere if you disconnect it. There are shower head with valve in the handle that you can use to shut off water, and you can be creative and use some of the quick disconnect for water hose that closes off the disconnect so that it is less messy, or you can leave the hose on the faucet, etc.. There are so many different possibilities. One good thing about the side access panel setup is that it is not that big of a deal if there is a few oz. of water drip down the panel when you disconnect, but if you have it setup inside the tire locker, you want to make sure there is no water issue there, unless you add some housing to drain the water to the outside.

[FatBuoy]

Thanks, Chin- below is a link to the shower I bought. It does have the quick disconnect, so theoretically when you pop the hose off, the water stops flowing to it, and it keeps the compartment less crowded. It has two outlets on the backside for which I would have to drill holes between the water fill and shore power cord in the access hatch. In looking at the backside of the hatch housing, from under the sink, the fiberglass backside of the hatch is exposed, so would only need to drill through it and the two outlets would be accessible to hook to the PEX lines. I really wanted it there, as opposed to the spare tire hatch, for access to the shower from the side rather than dancing around the spare, and to be sure the faucets don't get smacked around from the contents of the stuff in the hatch. I keep a good bit of heavy stuff in there, and don't want to have to worry about it.

So, you mention cut-off valves and the t-fittings. Why would I need the cut-offs? Safety when not using the shower? I ask, because it won't be easy to turn them on and off every time we want to shower. And I'm assuming the valves would go between the t and the shower connection, right? Otherwise you would be shutting the water to the sink off as well. I continue to learn.

Would still love to see pics if anyone would be so kind.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N3 ... UTF8&psc=1

[chin_k]

You be surprised how often you want to shut the water off when you need to fix the faucet. If there is no shut off valve, you may need to turn off your pump, and no one can use the water in the whole rig.

If there is a shut off valve, you can just turn that portion of the plumbing off, and go on with your trip. But if you can't, it can be a more major inconvenience. There is a shut off valve for every fixture in my house, for example. I would spend the extra $15 for the valves, or bring two sharkbite caps with me to cap pipe off if you don't think you will need the shut off valve. You be amazed at how often things go wrong at the "perfect" time, esp. when you are using/testing it the first time.

If you still can't get good suggestion about the shower curtain, one possible thing is to have a enclosure around the awning and use that as the shower room. It is a lot more work to setup and break down (awning, the fabric around it, but it will avoid drilling anything on the outside.

[FatBuoy]

You be surprised how often you want to shut the water off when you need to fix the faucet. If there is no shut off valve, you may need to turn off your pump, and no one can use the water in the whole rig.

If there is a shut off valve, you can just turn that portion of the plumbing off, and go on with your trip. But if you can't, it can be a more major inconvenience. There is a shut off valve for every fixture in my house, for example. I would spend the extra $15 for the valves, or bring two sharkbite caps with me to cap pipe off if you don't think you will need the shut off valve. You be amazed at how often things go wrong at the "perfect" time, esp. when you are using/testing it the first time.

If you still can't get good suggestion about the shower curtain, one possible thing is to have a enclosure around the awning and use that as the shower room. It is a lot more work to setup and break down (awning, the fabric around it, but it will avoid drilling anything on the outside.

Good call on the valves. I thought you were saying just to the shower. That makes total sense. On the awning, I thought about that! But the awning is on the wrong damned side.

[chin_k]

you can get extension to the water house, and go over the top/bottom of the rig, right? I am sure you are going to bring a garden hose or two anyway.

I would just avoid the AC outlets on the awning side, but everything should be fine... except the person in the rig may be able to see a "show" unless you cover up the window. Maybe use the railing on top of the rig to mount some shower rods and then you can shower left or right side. I think they are OK as long as you don't try to climb up to the top with your shower curtain attached to rod on the railing.

[FatBuoy]

you can get extension to the water house, and go over the top/bottom of the rig, right? I am sure you are going to bring a garden hose or two anyway.

I would just avoid the AC outlets on the awning side, but everything should be fine... except the person in the rig may be able to see a "show" unless you cover up the window. Maybe use the railing on top of the rig to mount some shower rods and then you can shower left or right side. I think they are OK as long as you don't try to climb up to the top with your shower curtain attached to rod on the railing.

Haha! Guess it all depends on who's where as far as who can see what.

The railing attach is a good idea, Chin. They would finally get some use!