Transmission temp high with front bike rack

[Palolojack]

Thanks Blue~Go! My cooler comes on Tuesday, and feel super confident for my install.

[Blue~Go]

Blue—thanks for this post and pics. Clearly the trans cooker you have is both larger and higher quality (stacked plate, I believe) than what they installed when they put in the replacement Jasper Transmission back in Santa Fe a couple of years ago. Which makes me think that this, and not weather you have a 195 or 185 thermostat is the reason you are running cooler than I am.

Maybe I have been confused about which temps you were talking about, but I thought in the most recent exchange you were talking about *engine* coolant temps (hence talk of thermostats). If that's correct, then actually the effect is the opposite. The large transmission cooler actually puts MORE heat into the engine radiator than the original (or any) smaller one did. Reason is that big ol' transmission cooler is removing heat, and then "throwing" it straight back into the engine cooling radiator. Also it blocks a bit more of the radiator.

In my case, that extra heat is handled just fine, and my engine coolant temperatures don't run any hotter because the Ford cooling fan will kick in and bring the temperature back down (when it "tries" to get hotter). So my engine coolant temp range is the same as always, BUT the Ford cooling fan will run a bit more often than before I put the larger transmission cooler in. If it was a LOT more, I would jettison the large cooler. But it isn't in my case. It's at a few predictable times, such as pulling a mountain pass towing in hot weather, pulling a mountain pass not towing but hot weather and I have the AC on, etc. And it only comes on for maybe one minute to bring things back down, then stays off unless that same situation happens again (but usually big hills or passes aren't one right after another).

I'm happy with it, but I would change my mind if either of two things happened: Elevated engine coolant temperatures, or too-often cooling fan running.

Maybe there is a transmission cooler that works really well, that we can fit in our vans (the big challenge), and that does not sit in front of the Ford radiator. I went with the one I did based on a recommendation from someone who tows heavy with a V10, plus manages a fleet of vans for work. My guess is that the other options may not fit or may be much more complicated (long hose runs?), but I don't really know.

Anyway, just wanted to get across that the big transmission cooler actually puts more of a heat load on the engine rather than less.

**************
Oh, one more thing I wanted to mention. A buddy I sometimes travel in tandem with had a much larger/heavier Class C but also with the V10 (2003 model year). We were on a cross country run and his engine temps were running closer to 210º or more, when they had used to be more like mine (btw he has the same large transmission cooler as I do). We finished out the trip and he never overheated, but his temps were consistently high like that, and the cooling fan came on a bit more often. After the trip he had the cooling system gone through and brought up to snuff and after THAT his temps went back down to normal. I think a big part of it was the radiator was somewhat gunked up, but I don't remember all the the details (I think he did get a new radiator, although the original probably could have been cleaned; he's just a "replace it" kinda guy). So that's another possibility for consistently higher temps (and his was a 2003, so "newer," and yet his temps went back down after the cooling system was gone over).

[Blue~Go]

Thanks Blue~Go! My cooler comes on Tuesday, and feel super confident for my install.

That's great. Let us know how it goes!

My one piece of advice (which was probably alluded to in the previous photo post) would be to not assume that pro's are always going to do everything the best way. Sometimes they don't. So, while conscious of not being in the way or encroaching on their pro-ness, I make sure to have a look at things to see that they are going okay (example, that hose in my cooler job which they would have run in a way that would have highly stressed the hose, and the fact that they left it silver). It can be a bit of a trick to not get any feathers ruffled. What I have found works better is to be up front, like "I'm somewhat particular and would like to see what you are doing; is that a problem?" Some shops are like "we are the pros you just sit in the waiting room and mind your own beeswax," but others (my kind) actually like that a customer is taking an interest and are happy to show me what they are doing. So that's a win/win. Of course there can be shops that want you to keep your nose out who ARE doing the perfect job, too.

[deppstein]

Blue--you are correct, I was talking primarily about engine temps (with trans fluid temps a secondary concern--especially with bikes on and covered...don't want a repeat of what happened in Santa Fe!).
So, yes, it was interesting to me that your engine temp (with front mount tire, which, though similar to my front mounted covered bikes, doesn't seem to block as much air flow) is running consistently lower--even with the larger trans cooler that, as you say, throws more heat to radiator. That's why I wondered about whether you had a 185 degree thermostat that was opening up earlier.
And given your description of the cross-country run with your buddy--his higher engine temps, and subsequent lowering of them with radiator replacement and check to make sure the entire cooling system is up to snuff, I'm beginning to think more and more that I should have my system looked at. My temps do seem higher than what the rest of you are posting here. Not that I am in a danger zone, but a full check of the cooling system does seem prudent, especially in light of the fact that I have some restriction to air flow with the bikes. The bummer, for me, about doing that is that I have to remove the brackets I installed for the high plow lights in order to get at two of the screws that hold the grill molding--I didn't think about that when I installed the brackets...dang!
David

[chin_k]

In addition to the valve that control the coolant flow to the radiator, isn't there a temperature sensor that controls when the fan will turn on?

[Blue~Go]

I think I'd be doing the same (cooling system checkover/cleanout) if I were you. Even if it's "okay" to run at 210-220º it just seems like, why? Then you've got so little margin for error.

The cooling fan thing is interesting to me. In my case, it keeps my temps the same, and just comes on a bit more often. So it seems to be controlled by temperature. But then my buddy had that whole trip of running "hot" --- which went away with a complete going through of the cooling system --- and yet why wasn't his fan coming on and bringing those temps down (albeit it might have been running nearly full time)?

Now maybe his fan WAS on and he didn't notice it somehow (don't ask me how, but maybe he had music on or something).

I'm not sure which thermostat I have. I did have the cooling system flushed and the thermostat changed during my "baseline" big maintenance, but I just had them use Ford parts that were called for. So if my year was supposed to have 185, it likely does.

But then my buddy's was a 2003, and after his cooling system spa trip, I think his temps were close to mine (but I don't remember for sure; I just know the elevated temps came down).

Also I wonder it would be *that* rigid about the 185 or 195 in certain years. I mean, I have no idea but am curious. If you knew you were going to be running mostly in hot weather (or the opposite), would you skew to one or the other regardless of year?

[chin_k]

Ideally, you want to keep the coolant at room temperature at all time.

They let the temperature go up higher due to practicality and better efficiency for letting the engine running hot sooner. There is no need for the thermostat since they can just let the water pump do it job as soon as the engine starts, but that will take longer for your engine to get warm. So they put this thermostat there to help it warm up. The purpose of the fan is to let the automotive engineers cheat by getting a smaller radiator than needed. It save weight, and make the cost lower. There got to be a controller somewhere that tells the fan when to turn on/off, or a mechanical-electrical thermostat we have in our house.

[deppstein]

I’ve scheduled radiator flush, check of fan sensor, and General cooking system check for early next week. AND the good news is that I’m told they can do that Ll without having to pull the grill! Radiator has drain cock and sensor is accessed via the doghouse.
Also, Blue, I think you are right about 185 v 195... my mechanic said older v10’s tended to have the 185 While newer came with 195, but not a hard and fast rule.
Chin-I always learn something new from your posts.
I’ll keep you all posted on results of coolant system clean/check.
David

[Palolojack]

Thanks Blue~Go! My cooler comes on Tuesday, and feel super confident for my install.

That's great. Let us know how it goes!

My one piece of advice (which was probably alluded to in the previous photo post) would be to not assume that pro's are always going to do everything the best way. Sometimes they don't. So, while conscious of not being in the way or encroaching on their pro-ness, I make sure to have a look at things to see that they are going okay (example, that hose in my cooler job which they would have run in a way that would have highly stressed the hose, and the fact that they left it silver). It can be a bit of a trick to not get any feathers ruffled. What I have found works better is to be up front, like "I'm somewhat particular and would like to see what you are doing; is that a problem?" Some shops are like "we are the pros you just sit in the waiting room and mind your own beeswax," but others (my kind) actually like that a customer is taking an interest and are happy to show me what they are doing. So that's a win/win. Of course there can be shops that want you to keep your nose out who ARE doing the perfect job, too.

Good advice! I love shops that don't mind you monitoring the work as they tend to be more competent and willing to take advice from the owner.

I do all the work myself, and have done a couple Trans coolers on various trucks over the years, so feeling good about tackling this one now. Although my confidence level is high, it's always good to triple research and advice before tackling a project that could result in catastrophic failure if not done right. I love this forum for that reason, and plan to post some projects I've done or do on the Chinook that would be valuable to others. For those with later model Chinooks like mine (2005), the cooler lines are flexible and doesn't require the hose and line mod done on the '99. Still need the 3/8 to 1/2" reducers though, but readily available on amazon. Job #1...Paint the cooler pre-install! Thanks again Blue~Go

[Blue~Go]

If you're doing it yourself then no problem keeping an eye on things

For those with later model Chinooks like mine (2005), the cooler lines are flexible and doesn't require the hose and line mod done on the '99.

I want to clarify something here. The '99 also has flexible transmission hoses. I wouldn't be surprised if they are the exact same ones as on yours (my buddy's 2003 was identical to mine). Not that nothing every changed, but precious little. I say we are all driving 1997 vans, essentially

The problem arises due to the fact that the original transmission cooler had that "left side" hose terminating much further toward the center of the radiator, because the cooler is much narrower. If you take that hose and bend and stretch it, it *will* reach the new Tru Cool, and it may be fine for awhile; but it puts quite a bit of stress on that hose and in my experience hose will fail over time when that is done. The hard line is just what the shop came up with when I said "No, I don't like that angle with just the hose." Perhaps the entire hose could have been replaced instead, I'm not sure.

So that hard line is not Ford stock. Stock is a black rubber hose that is quite flexible. That's just a combination adapter, and thing that meets the original hose where it wants to sit, vs. trying to make it do something more stressful.