A Series Of Stupid Questions

Post project writeups, ideas, DIY mods and off the shelf modifications and improvements. Also "Known Issues" and their resolutions.
chin_k
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Re: A Series Of Stupid Questions

Post by chin_k »

Assuming the fan motor is a regular DC motor (from the amount of noise from it, I think that is the case), it is straight forward to reverse the direction by reverse the polarity. There is already a switch on the fan to do that. So it is probably is the PWM being connected to the motor without the polarity switch in between.

Anyway, guessing is my specialty :lol:

I wonder if there is a wireless PWM module that you can get from oversea for less than $10 that let you control the fan speed without worry about the wiring to the controller? This way, you only need to worry about how to power the fan, and not have to worry about the wiring it takes to go to the controller, and back to the motor. I assume you already have some power nearby where your static vent.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
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Blue~Go
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Re: A Series Of Stupid Questions

Post by Blue~Go »

chin_k wrote: July 17th, 2020, 8:54 pm I assume you already have some power nearby where your static vent.
Yes, I have all the wiring in there from the Deluxe fan that came in the Chinook (which I still have). I needed to take out the base to re-bed, so at that time I replaced it with one of the Fantastic low-profile bases. I was hoping that would reduce the wind noise (not so's you'd notice), and plus just didn't need that monster high base sticking up on the roof. With the low profile base, the inner flat part of the fan (where the knobs and stuff are) is just slightly tucked in above the garnish, and the opener knob is below that (but not below the Thin Lite that is right there too).

So anyway, the way the Fantastics work, once you have the "base" bedded onto the roof (high or low profile), then you can just put in different "guts" parts as you please. The five white screws you see (two by the opener knob and one in each other quadrant) are what hold the "guts" in. So I just put in a "static" guts piece to try it out. I like it. It's just a round hole with nothing blocking it at all (it does have the same screen). But I just tucked the wiring away on the sides for future reference.

You can also interchange their numerous lids. I'm using the "double-pane" clear one.

Since I like the static vent (and it lets in quite a bit more air with no fan going at all since the opening is not half blocked by fan blades), I thought maybe I'd put one of my (collection of :oops: ) powered Fantastic Vents in the bathroom. Typically the only time I have the fan going is in the evening after a warm day - when it's cool outside but still warm in the Chinook. Then it's nice to power suck that cool air in, but setting the Fantastic to blow out and cracking a couple of windows. But that might work fine with the bathroom vent going (as long as there is water in the toilet).

Anyway, I back-burnered that so haven't done anything on it.

One thing I just thought of though. If one were adding the PWM knob in the bathroom, there are lots of places to put it since there is a hollow cavity all around the shower stall (as long as it's not in a place where it would get sprayed). Maybe right up next to the vent (massive gap between shower stall and carpeted overhead).

Something tells me you are the one that should get the PWM going and report back :ugeek: I bought a couple on either eBay or Amazon that have their own knob (but some don't have that). But I haven't figured out (actually, haven't tried) which wire needs to be "interrupted" by the PWM.
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chin_k
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Re: A Series Of Stupid Questions

Post by chin_k »

Blue~Go wrote: July 18th, 2020, 1:15 am But I haven't figured out (actually, haven't tried) which wire needs to be "interrupted" by the PWM.
Blue, the PWM module should go directly to the motor, *unless* there is a polarity reversing switch that change the direction of the fan. So the two scenarios are:

1, 12V -> PWM -> motor
or
2, 12V -> PWM -> polarity switch -> motor.

If you see other case not covered by the about two, let me know, and I take another look.

If I do go with this mod, I will go see if I can find a radio-controll PWM module first. My wife is pretty short, and she often complaint about having to reach for the nobs.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
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Blue~Go
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Re: A Series Of Stupid Questions

Post by Blue~Go »

Thanks. Next time I'm at my "Chinook parts storage warehouse" ( ;) ), I'll take a look at the backside of that power vent insert and see what the wiring looks like. One reason I bought the knob version is I was secretly hoping I could put the knob in a more convenient location. That said, needing to run a wire through to the side might prove to be a bit much (the "tube" is from the driver's side of the AC hole over to the upper center cabinet over the couch).

I didn't know there were radio controlled ones though - that might be a great solution.

If Fantastic didn't lock you into the fancy fan that has features I actively don't want in order to get the PWM controlled fan, I'd just buy one. But they do.
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