Extended valve stems for DRW (dual rear wheel) rigs.
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- Posts: 264
- Joined: December 20th, 2017, 9:09 am
Re: Extended valve stems for DRW (dual rear wheel) rigs.
Alcoa wheels need to be drilled out with 29/64 drill bit which I have done. Still need competent tire store in Socal. Mark
Re: Extended valve stems for DRW (dual rear wheel) rigs.
Hate it when talented guys retire. Rude!
I know this thread is about extended valve stems (slick setup!), but I just wanted to throw out another approach if you can't find someone you trust for the installation. I use the blow-thru stem caps (the good German ones) and an extended gauge with a dual angle chuck. Checking tire pressure is a snap, and there are no braided hoses flapping in the breeze. I don't have simulators so I don't know if that would change anything.
I know this thread is about extended valve stems (slick setup!), but I just wanted to throw out another approach if you can't find someone you trust for the installation. I use the blow-thru stem caps (the good German ones) and an extended gauge with a dual angle chuck. Checking tire pressure is a snap, and there are no braided hoses flapping in the breeze. I don't have simulators so I don't know if that would change anything.
1994 Premier
Re: Extended valve stems for DRW (dual rear wheel) rigs.
Well, 29/64 converts to the .453 I had in my notes, so apparently that's reliable. I don't know of a tire store in San Diego to recommend though, darnit.markatherton wrote:Alcoa wheels need to be drilled out with 29/64 drill bit which I have done.
I did install my own Tireman stems though, the second time around. Just in case that's something you would consider doing. The situation was that I bought two new front rims, so I had the rims in front of me while the previous ones were still enabling my Chinook to drive around. I didn't trust Discount (after they muffed up my buddy's stems), so I bought new Tireman stems, mounted them myself, and then brought the wheels-with-newly-mounted-stems to Discount where they mounted the new tires (that they can do, and they have the Road Force balancer). Mounting the stems was easy with common tools, and I have peace of mind they were done right. Not saying you want (or should have to!) do it, but it is fairly simple (ahem, Discount, so how do you muff it up? My guess is not reading the directions...).
I put one of the previous tires/rims with Tireman stem on as my spare, so that stem didn't go completely to waste (it will fit on any of the wheel positions with that front stem, if need be).
1999 Concourse
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- Joined: April 7th, 2017, 7:46 am
- Location: Central NC
Re: Extended valve stems for DRW (dual rear wheel) rigs.
I think I found a shop that can help me with turning the Borg valve stems to orient the right way. I thought about doing it myself but I just have a small hydraulic jack and I can get the outer wheel off with a lot of effort but the inners would be tough. And tough on my back.
Jeff H.
'99 Concourse XL
'99 Concourse XL
Re: Extended valve stems for DRW (dual rear wheel) rigs.
Understood. When I did mine it was just the bare rim and the valve stem. Then I took those assemblies in to have the tires mounted. Also it was the front wheels, so not too hard to jack up with the stock jack.
You know, the majority of stuff I do on my vehicles, boats, house, etc. are things "I shouldn't have to do," and *would* pay someone else to do..... except it seems very difficult to find people who do good work -- even when you stress that you are not looking for the cheapest job, but are more interested in quality of both parts and labor.
Oh well, to look on the bright side I have more tools and knowledge now than I did years ago, for the same reason. Still annoying though!
You know, the majority of stuff I do on my vehicles, boats, house, etc. are things "I shouldn't have to do," and *would* pay someone else to do..... except it seems very difficult to find people who do good work -- even when you stress that you are not looking for the cheapest job, but are more interested in quality of both parts and labor.
Oh well, to look on the bright side I have more tools and knowledge now than I did years ago, for the same reason. Still annoying though!
1999 Concourse
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- Posts: 264
- Joined: December 20th, 2017, 9:09 am
Re: Extended valve stems for DRW (dual rear wheel) rigs.
amen to that, brother
- HoosierB
- **Forum Contributor**
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- Location: South Bend, Indiana
Re: Extended valve stems for DRW (dual rear wheel) rigs.
Ditto!Blue~Go wrote:You know, the majority of stuff I do on my vehicles, boats, house, etc. are things "I shouldn't have to do," and *would* pay someone else to do..... except it seems very difficult to find people who do good work -- even when you stress that you are not looking for the cheapest job, but are more interested in quality of both parts and labor.
Couldn't have said it better, Blue!
"Wanda" – '01 Chinook Concourse XL V10
Re: Extended valve stems for DRW (dual rear wheel) rigs.
Hi, Blue. The link to the Tireman product you mentioned in your post no longer works. Before I order the correct stem extenders for my 1998 Concourse, I would like to verify the product number. You mentioned in your post it was kit #2. Here is the link to kit #2 on Tireman's web site today. http://tire-man.iwvisp.com/kit2.html Is this the same kit your installed?
Beaver
'98 Concourse
'98 Concourse
Re: Extended valve stems for DRW (dual rear wheel) rigs.
That does look like the kit I got (I bought them at his shop so that made it easy). I do have the "8 hand hole" Ford stock steel wheels (although you'd have to have pretty small hands to use those as "hand holes," Ford ).
The one thing I can't tell from the page is if you get the front wheel stems. They are not required but are nice to have. My guess is yes, since it says something about inflating "all six tires" quickly and easily. When I got mine it was all six (I also later put one of the front stems on my spare, but that's not in the usual kit).
I heard that Chuck has retired, but maybe that's just his shop and he (or someone) is still selling his stems. I'm 100% happy with them.
I do think that the Borg stems are similar (they are also shiny silver vs. brass if that matters). I think they sell just the rear four in the typical kit, so if you want the front ones you have to make sure to get them (maybe separately?).
These extended stems just make the duallies so much less of a "thing." If I bought another dually rig stems would be one of the first things I'd add (plus a Scangauge II).
One note is to make sure that when the simulators ("hubcaps") go back on that the edges of the simulator holes aren't rubbing on the stems. There is usually a bit of wiggle room with the simulators before you tighten them down, so you can wiggle them to the best position, then tighten them. Worst case you can remove a bit of material from the simulator - I didn't have to do that but a buddy did. Shops sometimes just slap the simulators on (I changed my practice so I'd just remove the simulators ahead of time then reinstall them myself - shops love to bungle them up in a variety of ways).
The one thing I can't tell from the page is if you get the front wheel stems. They are not required but are nice to have. My guess is yes, since it says something about inflating "all six tires" quickly and easily. When I got mine it was all six (I also later put one of the front stems on my spare, but that's not in the usual kit).
I heard that Chuck has retired, but maybe that's just his shop and he (or someone) is still selling his stems. I'm 100% happy with them.
I do think that the Borg stems are similar (they are also shiny silver vs. brass if that matters). I think they sell just the rear four in the typical kit, so if you want the front ones you have to make sure to get them (maybe separately?).
These extended stems just make the duallies so much less of a "thing." If I bought another dually rig stems would be one of the first things I'd add (plus a Scangauge II).
One note is to make sure that when the simulators ("hubcaps") go back on that the edges of the simulator holes aren't rubbing on the stems. There is usually a bit of wiggle room with the simulators before you tighten them down, so you can wiggle them to the best position, then tighten them. Worst case you can remove a bit of material from the simulator - I didn't have to do that but a buddy did. Shops sometimes just slap the simulators on (I changed my practice so I'd just remove the simulators ahead of time then reinstall them myself - shops love to bungle them up in a variety of ways).
1999 Concourse
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- Posts: 264
- Joined: December 20th, 2017, 9:09 am
Re: Extended valve stems for DRW (dual rear wheel) rigs.
Blue I have been emailing and calling tireman for quite some time and so far, he has been a "no show".