solar controller/LVD upgrade

[chin_k]

I was getting ready to get more solar on the roof, so I did a few things to the electricals. It is still work in progress with mostly cosmetic and organization task, but it is working right now. I should do a better job in document all the steps, but right now, I only going to write it from memory.

For the solar controller, I replaced it with the EPEVER Triron 30A MPPT controller. I don't think I need the 40A version, so I went with the smaller one. I was debating between the MPPT and PWM controller, and just want to try something new. I have three PWM controllers around the house already, and I want to try something new. I also like the remote display, which I think is the main reason I went with it instead of other alternatives.

So I removed the Specialty Concept controller and mount the EPEVER MT-50 remote in the spot. The remote display is much smaller, so I will need to put some kind of bracket there later. I also took off part of the overhead cab and the driver pillar to run the wires from where the old controller used to be, to where the LVD is. I ran two 6 AWG wires across the cab, and down the pillar. I also pull an Ethernet cable thru the same path for the remote display.

I removed the LVD, since the EPEVER controller has the load function that allows me to discharge up to 30A. The original LVD is rated much higher than that, but I think I hardly need more than 25 A. Just make sure I don't run the fridge on DC mode unless I really have to. Anyway, I removed the LVD, and mount the solar controller in the same location. It is difficult spot to work on, and I removed part of the sofa when I was doing the task. I mounted the controller below the sofa so that no one will hit it when we sleep on the bed. It also means that we can't see the display on the DS-2 module on the controller, but it is not that important since I have the remote display. I also have a temperature probe for the controller, and I instead it thru the floor opening down to the battery drawer.

I want to preserve as much of the Chinook control as possible, so I connect the green wire from the LVD to the load output. When the load is active, the green "in-use" LED will light up. I also repurpose the blue wire to allow me to toggle the load on the controller on/off. This involved some reverse engineering, and I found out that I can ground the pin #3 on the controller to toggle the load. Since the voltage on the controller is 5V, I want to be more careful and decided to use a PC-817 optocoupler to isolate from the 12V DC from the rig. I think it can be done simpler with just one transistor, but I have the optocoupler around anyway. Since I need to tap into the controller, I used an old harddrive cable and adapter and mount the DS-2 display further up so it actually have two remote displays right now. In order for the blue wire to work, I connected the red wire from the battery (via the 15A breaker) to the red wire going to the vehicle battery switch above the driver seat.

Since the controller is dealing with the load, I disconnected the DC panel inside the brown box from the converter. I also added a new cable from the converter to the battery directly with a larger cable. I ordered some 4 AWG Ancor marine cables, but since I need to do a quick trip a few months ago, I temporarily put in a 6 AWG wire instead, but I will pull it out and redo it with the larger cable later. The larger cable allow lower voltage drop in charging the batteries with the converter. The difference with this setup is that I need to turn on the load on the controller if I want to use any of the DC appliances. Originally, when the converter is powered, all the DC appliances will be functional. (If the LVD was not on, the alarm will sound in the old setup, but the new setup will charge the batteries whenever the converter/charger is on). I may want to automatically turn on the load when the converter is on, but with three different location to do that, I think I can just leave it the way it is now. The old wiring from the converter is used to connect the load from the controller to the DC panel. I can run a new wire between the controller to the DC panel, but I think that is over kill.