Replace faucet

[Gabbi]

We want to replace the single handle faucet in the kitchen of our Concourse so we have a more modern looking and working one. Has anyone done this and, if so, do you have any suggestions on how to complete the process ? Any model or manufacturer product to make the job easier ? Thanks in advance.

[chin_k]

The modern faucet typically is easier to install. I have not do this on the rig yet, but I assume you just have to make sure:
1, the size for the mounting hole is correct.
2, enough clearance below for the faucet to work (some have a hose with weight on it)
3, easier want to attach the hot and cold water line. (Most assume you have a threaded ball valves on the wall, but our rig may be different. Again, I have not look).

Most RV faucet tends to be on the light side (plastic coated with thin layer of chrome), but I think we can get some better quality ones that are solid brass. Many items on my house if made by Moen (many Chinook came with them in the kitchen), and they have great customer service.

[dells2000con]

The faucet in my 2000 Concourse has been replaced by the PO. Seems to be a standard Moen (I prefer Delta myself, 2cents) but he put it in backward, hot to the right. He may have done that on purpose the handle faces the window, maybe to give more room. I've been meaning to fix that.

[chin_k]

Maybe the PO likes to wash his hands while he is outside the rig? LOL

[68camaro]

To the OP, if you replace please consider putting the original for sale here or elsewhere, there are some, like me, that like the original components.

BTW - I do not need it but others may.

Thanks,

[Blue~Go]

One thing to possibly be aware of. I'm not a faucet expert, so I don't know how often this applies but...

My original Chinook faucet has coppery looking "hoses" that extend down from from the faucet (I believe they are part of the faucet) and then attach to the PEX tubing. The PEX tubing has those female "hand wheels" you can turn to screw them onto the males of the copper tubing. I believe this is NPT and NPTF.

A friend just took the new/nice faucet out of his new Airstream and offered it to me. As a result of investigating switching, I found out that (most?) new faucets have compression fittings on the ends of the tails, not the hand wheels/NPT fittings.

I found a couple of options for changing the FPT hand wheels over to the compression. Both of these are the push to connect (vs. the type that require a tool to crimp onto the PEX). One style is just the adapters; the other has incorporated shut-off valves. To install either of these you would make a clean/square cut on the PEX and push them on.

Here is a link to the shut off valve ones. The non-shut-off ones were a bit cheaper. Also the shut off ones come as straight not 90º, but on mine the 90º looks like it would work better. (I haven't done this mod yet.)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004X ... 0DER&psc=1

One other note: The faucet I was offered is a Moen and has the hand sprayer as a separate thing on the side. I don't tend to use those but if you simply remove it water will spray out the connection. Moen makes a black plastic part (about $8) that you can put into the underside of the assembly if you want to remove the hand sprayer (plugs the opening under the counter).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BY ... 0DER&psc=1

[caconcourse]

It sounds like "RV" faucets are a little different from standard kitchen faucets, in that the water supply lines are male threaded connectors, vs the compression fittings standard in houses. The male threaded fittings connect to the Chinook factory "hand wheel" connections as Blue pointed out. New RV's probably use standard plumbing in some cases like the Airstream faucet Blue inherited.

If you are buying a new replacement, you can simplify the install by choosing an RV faucet (Google "RV kitchen faucet" or search on Amazon for many choices). If you inherited a kitchen faucet or want to use a standard faucet, you will need to adapt the plumbing as Blue suggests.

[Blue~Go]

Good summary, Clay.

I didn't know whether the "handwheel" connections were RV-specific or if that's just the way older faucets were even in houses. The stock one in my Chinook is a Delta, if I remember correctly.

And yes, Airstream at least starting in 2017 is using "home" faucets with the compression fittings. Easy enough to adapt a Chinook to those; but if you didn't know then you might have one of those irritating situations where you are all ready to install the cool new thing, but then have to order additional small parts and wait

[chin_k]

My rig is older version of 2000, so it has the cheaper faucet, not the Moen. I am not a plumber either, so big piece of salt ready there.

I think the thread on them (the older faucet) are not NPT, since the "T" means tapered. They are straight, meaning same diameter thru out the whole thread. I think most toilet still use threads. For the compression, it has to do with how the connector is made water tight. If it is tapered, then it does not need to have compression end. For some faucets, they use gasket to make it water tight. A garden hose, for example, relies on the rubber washer for the purpose. No tapering, and neither a compression fitting. Again, I have not take apart mine to confirm any of the connection type, but certainly it is not fun to realize these details when you are ready, but you are not. Most of the newer faucets use NPT connection, I think....

[Blue~Go]

chin_k,

Good point, and now that I think about it I'm pretty sure you are right. So the "old style" are probably straight threads (what I called the "hand wheel" style because they give you that little female hand tightener piece, such as on the water pump attachments). Looks like most new home style are the 3/8" compression fittings (or at least the ones I have looked at).

I noticed some Amazon reviewers confirming that those adapters are what they used to go from PEX to the newer home style faucet compression fittings (you would cut the hand wheel off completely and then either crimp or "push" on an adapter from 1/2" CTS (PEX) to 3/8" compression. I linked the more expensive push on with valve style above, but there were also pairs of non-valved ones for about the same price as a single valved one on Amazon.

Probably no big reason to add a valve there, but I just on principle don't like to put stuff back without shut-off valves.