Gone to the Dark… no… Gone to the Lithium Side!

[ski2ways]

Roly, Chin and 68comero,

One more photo - we are very limited in the sizes of attachments!

Here is the forward side showing the batteries and the fuse holder in a handy spot to replace a fuse if I have to - hopefully not! The on/off switch here turns everything off - no voltage in or out, so I can work on any thing and not get shocked or spark something:

[grantandash]

Really impressive setup, thank you for the detailed posts!

I have what is likely a dumb question – where is the inverter running out to? As in, where do you plug devices into it? Is it connected to the built in outlets, and if so, how?

Thanks!

[ski2ways]

Hi Grantandash,

Not a dumb question at all! I would have really liked to connect the inverter output to its own 110 outlet, most likely right underneath the battery monitor and the inverter remote controller that Greg and I installed on the side panel. But, let's save that for a later day...

Because we won't be using the inverter unless we are not on shore power or should not/cannot run the generator, the quick way to access it was to plug in a surge protector that also has usb ports. I installed that on the shelf underneath the kitchen sinks:

Some day I'll probably put some sort of protection cover over it in case we might have a leak. However, in 20+ years of prior owners, it does not appear that there have been any problems of water getting on the shelf.

The inverter has only 1200 Watts, so only a few things can be plugged in at a time. But we have made sure that our single k-cup coffee maker, which requires 800 watts will work just fine. After brewing a couple of cups of coffee, we then will plug in the cute toaster we just got that needs 750 watts and toast a couple of bagel halves. Life will be good on the road

[chin_k]

Since the inverter is right at the corner of the sofa, it is not that far from the AC panel. It is pretty easy to run a conduit from the sofa behind the sink, and to the AC panel. I would go with 30A wiring, but fuse it at 10 A, since it is only 1.2kW. When you want to upgrade to a bigger inverter, you can simply change to a bigger fuse. Now the tricky part is to have mechanism to shut of the converter. Originally, I was thinking a second ATS auto transfer switch so that it will cut off power to the shore/genset when the inverter is on, and an auto-shut off switch for the converter when the inverter is on. I do have a 30A manual switch that I can use to turn on the inverter and shut off the converter at the same switch, but need to figure out the wiring detail and where to mount it.

As for the water proofing the outlet, I think you should still do that. When a spill happened, it is accidental, and you will not have time to react and it is the first time that you really need it.

[grantandash]

Oh wow nice stealth install there! Very cool, thanks!

Hi Grantandash,

Not a dumb question at all! I would have really liked to connect the inverter output to its own 110 outlet, most likely right underneath the battery monitor and the inverter remote controller that Greg and I installed on the side panel. But, let's save that for a later day...

Because we won't be using the inverter unless we are not on shore power or should not/cannot run the generator, the quick way to access it was to plug in a surge protector that also has usb ports. I installed that on the shelf underneath the kitchen sinks:


Surge Protector.jpg


Some day I'll probably put some sort of protection cover over it in case we might have a leak. However, in 20+ years of prior owners, it does not appear that there have been any problems of water getting on the shelf.

The inverter has only 1200 Watts, so only a few things can be plugged in at a time. But we have made sure that our single k-cup coffee maker, which requires 800 watts will work just fine. After brewing a couple of cups of coffee, we then will plug in the cute toaster we just got that needs 750 watts and toast a couple of bagel halves. Life will be good on the road

[ski2ways]

Since the inverter is right at the corner of the sofa, it is not that far from the AC panel. It is pretty easy to run a conduit from the sofa behind the sink, and to the AC panel. I would go with 30A wiring, but fuse it at 10 A, since it is only 1.2kW. When you want to upgrade to a bigger inverter, you can simply change to a bigger fuse. Now the tricky part is to have mechanism to shut of the converter. Originally, I was thinking a second ATS auto transfer switch so that it will cut off power to the shore/genset when the inverter is on, and an auto-shut off switch for the converter when the inverter is on. I do have a 30A manual switch that I can use to turn on the inverter and shut off the converter at the same switch, but need to figure out the wiring detail and where to mount it.

As for the water proofing the outlet, I think you should still do that. When a spill happened, it is accidental, and you will not have time to react and it is the first time that you really need it.

Chin,

Great suggestion and I certainly will consider doing your idea. You are right about protecting the surge protector from a water leak. That I have to do now and now wait until the error of an accidental leak happens. It is all about "error proofing"; a concept that I learned from my days at Seagate Technology as a Six-Sigma Blackbelt. Make it impossible for the error - short in the inverter connection because of water - to occur.

[ski2ways]

Oh wow nice stealth install there! Very cool, thanks!

Thanks!

[chin_k]

I wonder if it is a good idea to add GFCI to inverter output. I assume it should work like a regular house, since it is looking for the difference in the current leaving and return to the inverter. That maybe a good thing to have instead of going straight to a non-GFCI outlet. Anyone have any comment? Maybe that would be close to nine sigmas

[ski2ways]

I wonder if it is a good idea to add GFCI to inverter output. I assume it should work like a regular house, since it is looking for the difference in the current leaving and return to the inverter. That maybe a good thing to have instead of going straight to a non-GFCI outlet. Anyone have any comment? Maybe that would be close to nine sigmas

My goodness Chin!

As you probably know, a Six Sigma process is one in which the chance of a defect (error) occurring per one million opportunities (DPMO) equals 3.4, or a process yield of 99.99966% error free. I can’t even calculate the DPMO of, or imagine, a Nine Sigma process! But I would vote for your suggestion to add a GFCI to the inverter output…

[chin_k]

I have very little clue about the Lean Sigma stuff, just came across it in some of the trainings I been to.

It maybe difficult to get a 30 A GFCI, however. the 20A and the 15 A ones are readily available from the big box stores. The 30A version may involves visit to a contractor's electrical store, however. But I guess you can use a simple one of the 15A for now, since your inverter is just 10A anyway.