I just don't know how I would do that. There are a ton of surround screws. Then there are the rivets. Even if I took out the rivets and redid those, after adjustments, I'm not going to drill all new holes for the surround screws. I can't imagine I would be able to move the frame enough to not either go back into the same surround screw holes, or wallow the existing ones out more, if that makes sense.
Sorry, I think you misunderstood. Willing to do the work, just not sure how to reattach after pulling it out and straightening. How would you suggest reattaching? There are existing holes in the surround. Unless the straightening moved the new holes at least 1/2", I would be ok. Am I making sense?JabberBox wrote: ↑November 8th, 2021, 4:23 pm Cant help ya then.... If you arent willing to do the work to sqaure up the frame as its installed, then you should expect that it isnt going to be correct when you try to put a sqaure door inside of it. Its really that simple..... A square peg does not fit in a round hole.
Will it be reasonable to put the frame with the door onto the opening, make sure it is working properly, then attach the rivets/screws one-by-one while ensuring the fit still fine? Once you got to the point where the last rivet/screw make the door not closing correctly, you know you will need to redo that fastener, and maybe skip it for now, and go on to other rivet/screw.FatBuoy wrote: ↑November 8th, 2021, 4:50 pmSorry, I think you misunderstood. Willing to do the work, just not sure how to reattach after pulling it out and straightening. How would you suggest reattaching? There are existing holes in the surround. Unless the straightening moved the new holes at least 1/2", I would be ok. Am I making sense?JabberBox wrote: ↑November 8th, 2021, 4:23 pm Cant help ya then.... If you arent willing to do the work to sqaure up the frame as its installed, then you should expect that it isnt going to be correct when you try to put a sqaure door inside of it. Its really that simple..... A square peg does not fit in a round hole.
Thanks Clay. That’s the guidance I was seeking. “How to not run into the same holes by being to close to them after realignment.”caconcourse wrote: ↑November 8th, 2021, 5:50 pm It seems like the door got tweaked in its past, leading to the original leak. Maybe got blown open, as suggested, since it is a side entry and there are more opportunities (e.g. backup into signpost with door open). At any rate, I agree that you need to make sure it is squared up and works before you re-install it. It is likely the fiberglass frame was tweaked along with the door frame, and the existing holes may be misaligned, so you shouldn't force the screws into the existing holes, if they don't line up with the straightened door frame.
I would make new holes if they no longer line up after straightening the door. You can fill the old holes with epoxy and start over, or use the ones that are still close.
This epoxy is great for filling holes and repair of the fiberglass:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014 ... UTF8&psc=1
As for those rivets, I want to believe they were installed at the door factory and weren't added after installation, even though they protrude into the wood. I think they either were not supposed to stick out so far (pop rivets were too long), or they stick out but within tolerance of the rough opening. Their function was to fasten the door parts together, not to hold the door in place. Screws would have done a better job for the latter function.
Thanks Bob. Yes, I believe you are correct. And this is odd as well. I checked out the angles on the lower left and right again today, as I had only checked the right. The right is off and the left is spot on. It would seem that they both would be off fairly equally. A parallelogram instead of a rectangle if you will.BobW9 wrote: ↑November 9th, 2021, 5:45 am Are you sure its the frame that is out of alignment, and not the door?
Seems like if the frame is solid against the fiberglass in every area, you're not really going to be able to do much to straighten it. Perhaps over time the fiberglass might warp/buckle a bit I suppose, but that would be up/down along the surface - not left/right pulling/pushing the frame sideways. What I mean is, if there is warping so the fiberglass isn't flat everywhere, then if you pull the frame off, do something to it, and screw it back in place, it's just going to be pulled out of true again in order to go flat against the fiberglass.
Unless some of the screw holes were not round anymore when you pulled the frame off and put it back? If the screws went back in as expected, then I doubt anything can be done with the frame to make things better (other than buying a new frame, and door).
I can't recall - has anyone on this forum ever fixed or reshaped a door frame, where the screw holes no longer lined up??
Seems like over the years I and others have had the doors go slightly off and had to rebuild them. Or in my case, I bought a new door and frame because my original door was having enough things go slightly wrong that it was just way too much trouble to try fixing it. Note my original door was a hollow core door with some kind of foam inside a metal framework, while others here have said they had solid metal/wood doors, so it seems to vary.
Anyway, that's my two cents
Oh, and when I bought my new door, the screw holes did not line up, and in fact the frame was shaped slightly differently - not rounded the same at the top. I did fill in all the screw holes with epoxy, and also had to build out the top sides with some small pieces of wood surrounded with fiberglass filler. More work than I expected, but came out fine and the door clucks shut with a satisfying sound and feel. It was worth it to me to have an entirely new door.
