Suburban SW6D - HOT Water Heater

[M_MINCEY]

Would anyone know why your hot water heater comes on than shuts off 5 mins later. At first it has the normal sound of propane flowing properly then it sounds like a rush of air and goes out. Someone told me that it might be air in the line, because my propane tank ran out. So yesterday I fill it up and the same problem occurs. I turned on my stove and let it run for several mins. to no avail. Any suggestions would be helpful?

Suburban SW6D - HOT Water Heater:

[M_MINCEY]

Update this past Friday a friend (Gerry) who has a Chinook also, was helping me troubleshoot the issues I was having. He initially thought it might have been that the suburban water tank was not filling up properly. Causing the unit to shut down, I had to check whether or not the values on the tank were in the correct positions. First I open to the pressure release value on the tank to see if water would run out, and it did. The diagram for the suburban tank, located on the Chinook Destiny .PDF I download from this site. Was not very clear on the correct positions, but it did say to turn both values for flow through in the EXTREME CLOCKWISE position so I did. I then turn on the ignition switch for the heater and it ran a little longer than before, but after a few minutes turned off again. I finally decided to remove the Burner Assembly PN# 010843 https://www.camperid.com/suburban/lp-ga ... ifications. The orifice seemed to be a little clogged, the assembly looks a little wore down. In addition, the electrode may have seen better days. Lastly the combustion chamber at one time may have had some type of nest in it not really sure. I ordered the parts and as soon as I receive them I provide and update.

[chin_k]

The nest looks like some kind of mud dauber? I have them in my mirrors, for example, and they are pretty common around here. May need to have fine mesh to keep them out.

The electrode looks fine, but the orifice seems a bit corroded. Hopefully the new part will solve the issue.

[68camaro]

Not to highjack thread, but does the water heater uses much power or continuous power, or once water hot is power to maintain low? Is it easy on propane also?

[caconcourse]

The water heater is surprisingly efficient, much like a typical house water heater. It hardly uses any electricity. It takes about 20 minutes to heat from cold, and very little propane to keep it hot, as the tank is insulated. We don't leave ours on continuously however, because hot water tends to trickle out our over-temp valve and causes the water pump to "burp". We only use it for showers and just wash dishes in cold water.

[M_MINCEY]

Thanks everyone for replying to my post, chin_k I believe you are correct. I was able to remove the object from the heating chamber, and yes it was a Mud Dauber Nest. I ordered another Electrode 232258 and "Switch Assembly, 12 V.D.C. T-Stat/Hi-Limit PN 232282" just in case. I've never done this before but it's worth a DYI try.

Caconcourse you may want to replace that "Pressure Relief Valve PN 161157" and a Camco 10552 Universal Temperature and Pressure Valve Remover https://amzn.to/3p24KGp or just use a wrench. I seen videos that water leaking from the value can cause problems down the road with your Thermostat, if water seepage gets behind that cover.

68camaro are you referring to a 12 volt/Propane system? Because it's a SW6D not a SW6DE which uses an Electric Element also, mine does not.

[caconcourse]

Caconcourse you may want to replace that "Pressure Relief Valve PN 161157" and a Camco 10552 Universal Temperature and Pressure Valve Remover https://amzn.to/3p24KGp or just use a wrench. I seen videos that water leaking from the value can cause problems down the road with your Thermostat, if water seepage gets behind that cover.

Actually, I just replaced the relief valve before our last trip, and I don't think it leaks any more. It was surprisingly difficult, and I had to grind a bit off the new one to make clearance to screw it in.

[M_MINCEY]

Water Heater Final Update:

Thanks again everyone for your input, I received my replacement parts in the mail today. I decided to only replace the Electrode and Burner/Orifice assembly. That seems to have done the trick, it took about 15 to 20 mins to get the water hot. I sprayed a little soapy water around the fittings for leaks, no bubbles. As a test, I let the hot water flow out to see if the system would restart to heat the new incoming water, and it did. Now off to the next project, stay safe.

NOTE: I had a nice blue flame, my phone was not able to pick-up the coloring properly. I guess I need a new phone

Regards,

[chin_k]

...
NOTE: I had a nice blue flame, my phone was not able to pick-up the coloring properly. I guess I need a new phone

There is nothing wrong with your phone. These camera sensors are typically very sensitive in the red region. Nice job in getting the heat to work again!