Whacky Stuff
The gas option on my 1998 Concourse fridge isn’t working. The check light goes on repeatedly. Also, something weird happened with my hot water.
Here are the sequence events as I can remember them.
* I accidentally pulled the AC power to the rig before turning off the fridge. The fridge was operating on AC at the time to pre-cool for my trip.
* Before going on the road I turned the fridge back on and turned it to DC power.
* When I got to my locations I tried to change the fridge to gas. It would go on for a short time but I kept getting the “check” light.
* I turned the fridge back to DC since I didn’t have a hookup where I was.
* I periodically checked the monitor to see if the coach battery was draining. While the fridge was on it initially read “poor” but if I turned the fridge off it read "good". I did this a few times until the monitor said “weak”. After turning the fridge off again, I checked the coach battery monitor and the reading was back up to “good”. I finally turned the fridge off entirely since the manual said not to keep putting the gas option on if I was getting the “check” warning.
* And then something weird happened. I wanted to try my hot water heater to see if the gas was effected there as well. It wasn’t but when I turned off the hot water heater, the hot water continued to be hot. It wasn’t as hot as when the heater was turned on but hot never the less. I waited till morning to see if the heated water was a result of a residual supply but again, without turning on the hot water heater the water was hot coming out of the hot water side of the sink. Not luke warm, more like hot-ish.
I’m not sure what to do, or what to check. I may have blown some kind of circuit when I pulled the AC plug while the fridge was on but does that explain the dual hot water situation?
Any ideas are welcomed.
Some Whacky stuff
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caconcourse
- Posts: 490
- Joined: October 31st, 2014, 10:25 pm
Re: Some Whacky stuff
Some observations. first, pulling the AC cord while the fridge is running on AC should not hurt anything. If the fridge was in "Auto" mode, it will try to start with propane. If it is in just AC mode, it will simply stop cooling.
The check light comes on when the fridge is trying to run on propane, and the burner does not stay lit. I had this problem when I first got our Chinook, and it was fixed when I replaced the original controller card (in the rear compartment) with a Dinosaur brand replacement. The Dinosaur P711 card is a better controller than the original and fixes the check light in many cases.
I have had the fridge fail to light (check light) on only a couple of occasions since replacing the card. In both cases, we were camping on a non-level surface. Although the propane was over half full, we filled the propane tank the next day, and the fridge worked for the rest of the trip and beyond. Filling the propane tank seemed to restore the system even though it wasn't empty.
The battery monitor status (weak, poor, good) is based strictly on the battery voltage. If it is well over 12 volts, it is "good", 11 to 12 would be weak, under 11 is poor. When everything is turned off the batteries return to a float voltage, which is higher than when they are actually under load. Running the fridge in DC puts the maximum load on the batteries and the voltage will drop to their actually state, which is lower than the float state, so the status will change to poor or weak. Turn the fridge off, and the batteries will return to the idle state and back to green.
Running the fridge in DC mode is practally worthless. It drains the batteries rapidly, and provides very little cooling power, much less than propane or AC mode. We used to use it while driving, but found the food was no cooler than just leaving the doors closed while driving and letting it act like an icebox, We put a lot of drinking water bottles in the freezer, and they help keep it cool when driving.
The water heater is an insulated tank, so once the water is heated, it will stay hot for a long time if not used. If the switch is turned off, there is no way the burner will turn on, so the water is probably just still hot thanks to the insulation. When the switch is on, the burner will only light for short times to maintain the hot temperature and does not have to run a long time like the initial heating.
I would recommend upgrading to the Dinosaur card if it hasn't been upgraded already, and going ahead and top off the propane, if it is not completely full.
The check light comes on when the fridge is trying to run on propane, and the burner does not stay lit. I had this problem when I first got our Chinook, and it was fixed when I replaced the original controller card (in the rear compartment) with a Dinosaur brand replacement. The Dinosaur P711 card is a better controller than the original and fixes the check light in many cases.
I have had the fridge fail to light (check light) on only a couple of occasions since replacing the card. In both cases, we were camping on a non-level surface. Although the propane was over half full, we filled the propane tank the next day, and the fridge worked for the rest of the trip and beyond. Filling the propane tank seemed to restore the system even though it wasn't empty.
The battery monitor status (weak, poor, good) is based strictly on the battery voltage. If it is well over 12 volts, it is "good", 11 to 12 would be weak, under 11 is poor. When everything is turned off the batteries return to a float voltage, which is higher than when they are actually under load. Running the fridge in DC puts the maximum load on the batteries and the voltage will drop to their actually state, which is lower than the float state, so the status will change to poor or weak. Turn the fridge off, and the batteries will return to the idle state and back to green.
Running the fridge in DC mode is practally worthless. It drains the batteries rapidly, and provides very little cooling power, much less than propane or AC mode. We used to use it while driving, but found the food was no cooler than just leaving the doors closed while driving and letting it act like an icebox, We put a lot of drinking water bottles in the freezer, and they help keep it cool when driving.
The water heater is an insulated tank, so once the water is heated, it will stay hot for a long time if not used. If the switch is turned off, there is no way the burner will turn on, so the water is probably just still hot thanks to the insulation. When the switch is on, the burner will only light for short times to maintain the hot temperature and does not have to run a long time like the initial heating.
I would recommend upgrading to the Dinosaur card if it hasn't been upgraded already, and going ahead and top off the propane, if it is not completely full.
Clay
2001 Concourse
Santa Barbara, CA
2001 Concourse
Santa Barbara, CA
Re: Some Whacky stuff
I agree with every caconcourse said, except to add that you may want to look at your burner before replacing the control board. Over the years, there maybe some corrosion that make the LP burners not function correctly.
There is nothing whacky about what you described except for the issue with the fridge, and I would not run the fridge on DC unless it is only for short period of time. The solar is just too small for the DC mode to be useful (no 110 V AC power, but the solar allow direct operation of the fridge without inverter if it is strong enough).
There is nothing whacky about what you described except for the issue with the fridge, and I would not run the fridge on DC unless it is only for short period of time. The solar is just too small for the DC mode to be useful (no 110 V AC power, but the solar allow direct operation of the fridge without inverter if it is strong enough).
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
Re: Some Whacky stuff
Thank you so much. I am so glad you guys and gals exist. My questions were answered thoroughly and made easy to understand. I am going out of town tomorrow early AM (without RV) but when I return next week will try filling the propane tank and take a look to see what card is being used. I was relieved to know I didn't cause the problem by pulling the plug. I also was happy to know I would have a way to keep the fridge cool without using the DC, or maybe using the ice bottles in tandem with DC.
The insulation on the hot water heater must be incredibly good. Yay for that. I'll check again after I return to see if it did indeed retain it's heat. I'm imagining the propane burner is working if the hot water heater is working. Is that a correct assumption? I'll check anyhow to see if there is corrosion there.
Regardless, I am relieved to know I may not have to replace the fridge, or any of its parts. To Be Continued.
Thanks again,
Fawn
The insulation on the hot water heater must be incredibly good. Yay for that. I'll check again after I return to see if it did indeed retain it's heat. I'm imagining the propane burner is working if the hot water heater is working. Is that a correct assumption? I'll check anyhow to see if there is corrosion there.
Regardless, I am relieved to know I may not have to replace the fridge, or any of its parts. To Be Continued.
Thanks again,
Fawn
Re: Some Whacky stuff
What caconcourse and chin said were my issues.
2001 Concourse XL Lounge model, 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis.
Re: Some Whacky stuff
While you are looking at your LP burner, you may want to check if your Dometic fridge is in the recall list. If it is, you may want to take care of that after you got yours to work properly.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
Update Re: Some Whacky stuff
Update on gas "check" light going on in fridge. I did the first and easiest step by filling the propane tank. I'm parked in my driveway which is level. The check light still goes on. The new Dinosaur P711 card is coming tomorrow and I have an appt. to install it on Aug.31st. I'll have them check for corrosion as well. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again for all the tips.
Re: Some Whacky stuff
I too had a fridge not cooling issue last weekend while boondocking.
I turned it on to AUTO, but it looked like all the lights lit up. I pressed the DC and gas buttons but still looked like all were lit, including the check light.
Later, the fridge was still warm inside.
My propane is full, so perhaps it's the card. I got the recall done last year and I thought they had to have checked if it was running properly.
Or maybe we weren't level enough. I don't have leveling blocks yet.
I've been told that RV shops prefer to order the parts themselves for the warranty. We can bring our own, but they won't guarantee it.
Let us know how it goes with the new card.
I turned it on to AUTO, but it looked like all the lights lit up. I pressed the DC and gas buttons but still looked like all were lit, including the check light.
Later, the fridge was still warm inside.
My propane is full, so perhaps it's the card. I got the recall done last year and I thought they had to have checked if it was running properly.
Or maybe we weren't level enough. I don't have leveling blocks yet.
I've been told that RV shops prefer to order the parts themselves for the warranty. We can bring our own, but they won't guarantee it.
Let us know how it goes with the new card.
2000 Ford E350 415CI/6.8L V-10 Triton Chinook Concourse XL Club Lounge
Re: Some Whacky stuff
Chin_k,chin_k wrote: ↑August 6th, 2022, 12:33 pm There is nothing whacky about what you described except for the issue with the fridge, and I would not run the fridge on DC unless it is only for short period of time. The solar is just too small for the DC mode to be useful (no 110 V AC power, but the solar allow direct operation of the fridge without inverter if it is strong enough).
I have read that many people travel with their 3 way fridge turned on to DC while driving. They say that the coach batteries supplying the fridge with DC are being charged by the alternator under the hood due to the 2 way separator in the engine compartment. Now that my fridge is working again, I am planning on doing this.
In your opinion, would that kill the coach batteries (depending on time driving), or wouldn't they stay charged by the alternator?
2000 Ford E350 415CI/6.8L V-10 Triton Chinook Concourse XL Club Lounge
Re: Some Whacky stuff
Our alternator is heavy duty, and is more than enough to keep the fridge going indefinitely when the engine is running. I used to keep the DC on for the fridge, but to be honest, it is mostly running on LP unless I knew I am heading out to the gas station. I rarely use the hot water or the heater, so my LP lasted me for many many months.
Many people just shut the fridge off, since it is very well insulated, and there is no worry about the extra strain on the engine running the alternator, or fire on a moving vehicle.
Many people just shut the fridge off, since it is very well insulated, and there is no worry about the extra strain on the engine running the alternator, or fire on a moving vehicle.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis