Water Heater Replacement

[inacioface]

The previous owner stripped everything out of the vehicle, so yes, there isn't anything else connected to the DC side of the panel except for the overhead lights. The reason I can connect the negative terminal of the switch to the chassis is because the negative terminal of the battery is connected to the chassis, correct? Also, I already have the 14/2 romex from another project which I will use for the AC connection. The manual doesn't state what size fuse to use unfortunately... I might have to connect them directly.

Manual: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/69177 ... e=6#manual

[inacioface]

For the 120V side: this heater consumes 1440 watts, which equates to 12 amps, so I plan on using a 14/2 wire with a 15 amp breaker.

[chin_k]

I have not take apart the wiring by the water heater, so maybe someone can confirm that the water heater connect directly to the rig's chassis. In the diagram, the junction box have a junction with four wires going to it. The (Green), (Yellow) and heater's chassis ground (-|I) are factory wiring. You need to provide the (-) negative field wiring, which should be 18 AWG from that junction to the rig's chassis. The rig's chassis is same potential as the negative terminal of the battery/converter because there are connected together with copper wires and lugs. Make sure you have a good connection to the chassis. For the light indicator, the (-) side should connect to either a white wire nearby (there is a 12 V cigarette socket by the kitchen sink...), or directly to the chassis, or to the DC panel, with preference in that order. For the (+) for the gas and electric switch probably can be bundle together, and connect to the #3 fuse on the DC panel with a 15 Amp automotive fuse.

For AC wiring, use 14/2 with a 15 amp breaker like you said. Make sure you torque the AC wire properly, since the solid wire may get loose due to vibration.

[inacioface]

As suggested in an earlier post, I strapped the water heater to the floor and then began working on the electrical connections. I believe I am done with the electrical connections on the water heater. I connected the 12VDC side through the relay switch to the breaker box and then added a 120VAC, 15A switch to the panel and connected the 120VAC side of the water heater to that with a 14/2 romex cable. I've attached a few pictures to show the progress. I also completed most of the plumbing today (I'm hoping to finish after the holidays) and I have been referencing the chinook manual for the plumbing diagram.

[inacioface]

120VAC, 15Amp breaker switch added

[chin_k]

Just some question out of curiosity.
1, what gauge is the AC wiring on the heater that the ROMEX is connected to? It looks bigger than 14 AWG.
2, I did not realize the AC panel have room for a 4th breaker. For mine, it only have cutouts for 3, so I have to replace the double-width 30A breaker with two single-wide one. I am going to take a look at mine and see if it have the space for the 4th one like yours, and also look at the panel specification to make sure it is safe to do that.
3, I see two wires on the yellow-sleeved connector on the back of the heater switch panel. I assume you are using it to bundle the two switches together, correct?

(4, the yellow wire on the back of the heater panel looks like it was not crimped properly. I assume you did it yourself. I am a bit OCD, and would redo it so that you can't see the copper, but that is just me. )

[inacioface]

Just some question out of curiosity.
1, what gauge is the AC wiring on the heater that the ROMEX is connected to? It looks bigger than 14 AWG.
2, I did not realize the AC panel have room for a 4th breaker. For mine, it only have cutouts for 3, so I have to replace the double-width 30A breaker with two single-wide one. I am going to take a look at mine and see if it have the space for the 4th one like yours, and also look at the panel specification to make sure it is safe to do that.
3, I see two wires on the yellow-sleeved connector on the back of the heater switch panel. I assume you are using it to bundle the two switches together, correct?

(4, the yellow wire on the back of the heater panel looks like it was not crimped properly. I assume you did it yourself. I am a bit OCD, and would redo it so that you can't see the copper, but that is just me. )

1. It is 14/2 Romex (with ground) wiring that I purchased from Lowes. I used it on a few projects earlier in the year and had some left over for the water heater.
2. On my panel door it has four "knockouts". Three had already been removed for the preexisting breakers and the fourth I removed to add the fourth breaker switch.
3. Correct. I followed the electrical diagram for the switch and those two terminals connect to (+)
4. Yes, I've been doing everything myself so I appreciate the second set of eyes (and guidance) on these things. I'll be sure to fix that before heading out on our trip.

[chin_k]

For #1, I was referring to the wire from the heater. Just curious if the heater manufactorer used a bigger wire.

My rig has the old Parallex AC/DC center. There is only three knockouts, and it is limited to 5 AC circuits. I assume that your is a different make and model. You may want make sure it can support the fourth breaker (looks like it is) and the number of circuits. I would not be comfortable with having 7 circuits on a 30A panel, for example, but apparently, it can be done.

[BobW9]

I was looking at your photo of the breaker panel. You might want to wrap part of the one ground wire that has a section which looks to be maybe a quarter inch or so from the neutral busbar - that looks like an accident waiting to happen (it might get pushed a bit when closing the panel one day, and poof!).

[chin_k]

I was looking at your photo of the breaker panel. You might want to wrap part of the one ground wire that has a section which looks to be maybe a quarter inch or so from the neutral busbar - that looks like an accident waiting to happen (it might get pushed a bit when closing the panel one day, and poof!).

Yeah, the general appearance of the AC panel looks very disorganized. I always have the ground wires all the way in the back, parallel, neat and straight, and no where near the neutral bus bar, or hot breaker/parts. I do not like to comment too much on the appearance, since I can sound a bit critical. The good thing about the neutral bus is that it is not as bad if the ground wire does touch it compare to hot wire. It probably won't make a poof like BobW9 said, but it certainly is not a good safe practice. It will be a safety hazard if you plug in your rig to shore power, since it will have multiple grounded neutrals, and it won't be good if there is fault in any equipment that you plug in. With that said, I would redo the panel since I can't stand haphazardly done panel. With that said, I would redo the panel since I can't stand haphazardly done panel.