Replacing Interior Walls

[inacioface]

I'm not really sure how to word this question, so I'm just going to say this and hope that someone can help me:

As shown in the pictures below, I gutted the interior of my chinook and would like to install new interior walls. The interior of this chinook was gutted by the original owner and the previous owner didn't do a great job at remodeling it, so I am starting from scratch. I do not know how the original interior walls were attached to the fiberglass so I'm kind of lost here. I'm familiar with home construction where drywall gets attached to wooden studs, but this isn't the same. There seems to only be plywood surrounding the window (which is obviously rotted) and nothing else. How do I attach a clean sheet of plywood (or some other wall material) to the interior surface wall?

[inacioface]

So after some deliberation as to what I can/should do I'm considering doing the following:

Scrape sections of the foam from the fiberglass wall
Cut pieces of wood and adhere them to the fiber glass wall using LOCTITE PL Max Premium construction adhesive
Attach plywood to wood using standard wood screws

Thoughts?

[inacioface]

Ok, so I have removed the window and any and all attempts by previous owners to remedy the leak (typically in the form of caulk, lots and lots of caulk... of all various types).

I then removed the water damaged wood from the fiberglass - this took forever! I had to chisel the wood from the fiberglass since it is attached to the fiberglass with some type of resin. I brought the window indoors (because its cold outside) and removed the old weather-striping from the frame and using Goo-gone, I removed more caulk.

I cut out a piece of plywood that is the correct thickness to match what was removed and attached it to the fiberglass wall using PL Max Premium construction adhesive and a lot of clamps. It takes 24hrs to cure so I will wait until tonight before removing the clamps.

My question to you all is: what thickness should the wall be in order for the "clamp ring" to sandwich the window (and butyl tape) properly?

Referencing the other window, it has two layers of plywood while the leaky window only has one layer (half the thickness). This prevented the "clamp ring" from clamping the window against the fiberglass wall. Essentially, I've been driving with a window that was only attached to the wall using caulk .

[inacioface]

I plan on clamping the final piece of wood to the fiberglass wall tonight and was wondering if you guys have any idea what the final thickness of the wall should be? I know that I need to attach at least another piece of plywood to the sheet that is already glued to the wall.

[BobW9]

Have you seen the Concourse information and reference drawing PDF from this link?

viewtopic.php?t=278

[inacioface]

Have you seen the Concourse information and reference drawing PDF from this link?

viewtopic.php?t=278

Thanks Bob. Yes, I've seen that thread before, but I vaguely remember seeing another thread with a detailed drawing of the wall (I believe it showed the fiberglass, fiberglass cloth, two pieces of wood, a thin veneer, and some fabric). The reference drawing you linked states two pieces of 1/2" plywood, but I believe there is more material that gets sandwiched in-between the window and the interior clamp trim. Do you know which drawing I am referring to?

[BobW9]

No, I hadn't seen that, but you're right - mine does have a thin plywood that is separate from the thicker plywood bracing for the window, with fabric wrapped on the lower side facing the interior. This makes the interior wall straight, separate from the curved fiberglass exterior.

Here are a few photos I've saved (not mine) showing a bit more. Hope it helps.

This first one is mine, it is from the water heater opening looking rearward along the floor level (I was adding some thick wiring for my inverter). You can see the fabric-covered wall on the right. It is sideways for some reason, click on it and the full size version is correct.

This was someone that changed their Concourse's angular windows for more standard rectangular ones.

[inacioface]

Thanks for the info and the pictures. They give me hope that I can get mine into good working order haha.

As an aside, do you know how the bottom of the interior walls are attached to the van wall? I'm planning on attaching the last layer to the wood that surrounds the window with adhesive and screws, but what do I attach the last wooden layer to at the base of the wall? I don't see any anchor points/surfaces.

[BobW9]

I don't think that interior wall covered with fabric is attached at the bottom, at all. You can kind of see in the one earlier photo of mine (not as sharp as I'd like, I couldn't get good focus) that the bottom of the wall doesn't quite go all the way down, and neither does it attach to the fiberglass. From what I recall, I think it is attached to the wood support structure under the window, and then further down it is attached at multiple points to the 2x4 that runs along the wall further down, which is support for the couch's frame. This gives the wall rigidity, and at the same time also helps support that 2x4 to hold the weight of the couch and occupants. The picture here shows just the right end of that 2x4, and the 2x2 (1.5x1.5?) holding it up off the floor (sorry, sideways again).

[inacioface]

Thanks Bob! I won't bring the wall to the floor then. I'll just bring it as low as it needs to until the couch hides the rest of the wall.

That being said, I'm hoping to get this project done today!

I reattached the ring clamp to the window to measure the spacing between the two pieces (i.e. the wall gap) and I found that the gap is 1.50" wide and my wall is currently only 0.625" thick. I'm planning on adding another 0.50" sheet of plywood as this is what the manufacture originally did, but this will only bring me to a 1.125" thick wall. I thinking I should pick up an additional 0.375" thick sheet of plywood to make up the difference.

What are your thoughts? Am I overlooking something?