Running wiring from battery compartment to overhead storage compartment

[Snortonj]

What’s the best way to run wiring up from the battery compartment to the overhead storage area? I was considering the cab post ,behind the driver, is there a better way? 1996 Premier E350 thanks

[Manitou]

I think that's the way the original wiring for the TV and/or the solar controller went. Are you replacing something or running new?

[Snortonj]

I followed the wires from the 120vac breaker box / converter 12vdc under the sink, and they go up the wall between the shower and sink. It looks like there might be a panel that can be unscrewed in the back of the wall cabinets that could be the wire path. I haven’t gone there, yet….just guessing so far. There are no visible wires going from the battery compartment up to the overhead, and no wires visible from under the cab that go up the cab post.
I’m exploring options for installing a small inverter for TV and DVD.

[chin_k]

You may want to get 12 V DC type of monitor and DVD. I think many DVD runs on 12V DC, so you don't need a inverter for it... at least 3 DVD players I had so far are on 12 VDC. That way, you just need to tap off the DC wiring inside the overhead, and forget about the inverter, more efficient too!

Anyway, if you follow the LVD (low voltage disconnect, you will see the wiring from the battery compartment to the LVD behind the sofa, and it is a short throw to go under the gap of the cap post on the driver side to the overhead. I do not think there is other rational path.

[BobW9]

I agree with Chin_k, if possible you're better off getting 12V TV and DVD, more efficient. The wiring from the converter/charger does go under the sink, behind the shower, then up along the left rear of the shower stall, back forward along the top, then behind the carpeting of the side overhead compartments, around to the front overhead. From the battery compartment, it comes up behind the fiberglass corner panel between the couch and driver's seat, where the LVD is attached.

To open the fiberglass corner panel requires removing screws for the seatbelt and along the panel, then the panel itself pulls out from the driver's seat and folds around towards the couch. It is a tight fit to pull the lip out from behind where it is tucked into the side wall behind the couch, because the lip curves a bit. The first time in my Concourse, I had to remove the couch seat before I could fold it towards the couch enough to pull that lip out.

This is the fiberglass pillar after I removed it. The seat belt keeps it attached like a leash, so here it was twisted around the driver's seat into the front, trying to get it out of the way. It is upside down (when you click for the large version, here it looks sideways), you can see the lip on the right side of the image (which is the left side of the panel when it is installed). You can also see the screw holes where the LVD goes, and the short cutout at the top of the image (really the bottom of the panel) is where the wires from the battery compartment go into the pillar (at least in my Concourse, the battery wires came up through the floor, moved over 6" or more and then went into that cutout to get behind the pillar and up to the overhead).

This is the wall with the corner panel removed. You can see there are 2 bundles of wiring, I think the one on the right was more cab-related and the one on the left was more coach, some coming down from the overhead (like for the water heater).

This is the passenger side overhead, you remove various screws you'll find, and the dividers, and then you pull the back piece out, like you can see here (it is jammed pretty tight).

This is the wiring behind it

[Snortonj]

Thanks Bob, your pics and information is exactly what I was looking for. The PO had a DC TV installed, but was plugged into 120 outlet with a power adapter, I need to get creative with connecting the different 12v barrel connectors for the TV to existing 12v already there. The Samsung LED backlit TV is name plated at 14 VDC, will it protest at 11.9 or even 11.7 vdc. ( guessing a bit of voltage drop, I don’t plan on regularly discharging batteries that low.)
What do you know about casting or mirroring from iPad or Android to tv or smart DVD, without Wi-Fi connected to internet? The TV is not smart, but works ok with hdmi cable connected to Android.

[BobW9]

If you need more pictures, let me know, I've been behind almost everything when I was upgrading my wiring and have pictures for a lot of it (I sometimes forget until too late). Oh, word of caution, take plenty of pictures as you remove screws for the couch and that corner panel and take things apart - I didn't, and left it off a long while, and I'm not sure I ever got it back on exactly the way it's supposed to be

Did your Premier originally not have a TV or DVDR player of some kind - if so, there might be some left over 12V wiring in the front overhead (or possibly even pre-wired if there wasn't anything installed). Otherwise, you can add wiring from the passenger side lights around the corner to the front (when you open that chase in back, you'll see the wire conduit goes around the corner - in mine, I was able to just use a 2 foot long stiff wire to reach through that corner, attach the new wires (just bare wires, but there is nothing back there that really requires it be in the conduit), and pull them back through to the front). This is a picture of the tool I used - it has a plunger on the end that opens a little claw at the tip (I forget where I bought it years ago). In this picture I was pulling new wires up from the sink area below, probably not recommended, as the wires aren't being held by anything coming up the wall back there, but it's just 2 wires I needed and I did the best I could under and behind the sink area to support them and secure them.

I would try to call Samsung support to ask about the TV. I have some computer stuff and one manufacturer was like, we can handle 18V down to 11V, while the other was, nope, exactly 12V, not higher or lower (my Lithium sit around 13.8-14V). If needed, you can always add a Buck/Boost converter - this is a small device (or bare electronics circuit board) that will take an input and convert it to a specific output. You can get one that takes 10-18V or something, and converts it to smooth 14V. Make sure to check the efficiency as the lower it is, the more battery power it'll waste.

I'm currently in my spare time trying to figure out how to mirror/cast, as well. From my iPhone to my iPad is what I really wanted (the iPad is old and 64GB, while my iPhone 13 has 256GB for downloading Amazon prime movies), but apparently Apple stopped allowing that, specifically, a few OS releases ago. I have no idea why, but it really ticks me off. I think I'll get a Google cast gadget and see if I can get that to work.

[chin_k]

You should take a look at DC-DC voltage converter (boost converter is the type that goes from 12 to 14 volt) that BobW9 mentioned if it does not work with the battery voltage. They are typically from $5-40, depends on quality and functionality. It is still going to be cheaper and more efficient than any inverter, and take up as much space as a pack of cigarette. Maybe your Samsung can deal with the 12V, but I think most are pretty picky nowadays. Best is to get the one specifically designed for 12V next time.

[BobW9]

Do be careful if you decide to try a DC-DC converter. I said buck/boost for a reason - the buck converter takes a higher voltage and 'bucks' it down, and the boost converter takes a lower voltage and 'boosts' it up. A buck/boost (or just dc-to-dc) converter will take a higher or lower voltage and set it to a specific voltage. And make sure the converter can handle enough Amps to power your TV or DVD (you'll probably need a separate converter for each of them, unless they happen to have very close to the same voltage requirements).

The voltage in an RV varies not only with the state of charge of the batteries, and the type of batteries, but also whether there is a charger in the system that is currently operating. So without the charger going and with lead acid batteries, your voltage might drop, as you indicated you're concerned about, down to 12 or even high 11's (maybe sometimes when starting the water pump or something). But with the charger going and lead acid, it could be at 14.4 for the usual bulk charge (or 14.6 or even 14.8), but with some chargers can also go considerably higher for short periods when it is doing an equalization (sulfate) charge, 15V and above.

I would get a dc-to-dc converter that will keep your TV at close to exactly 14V, regardless of what the overall system is at. How tightly around 14V is dependent on Samsung. I looked up my notes from talking with Planar support and the Planar monitor I have needs "minimum voltage for this model is +11.40VDC and maximum voltage is +12.60VDC". So in my case, it requires a pretty tight range, and ability to handle at least 3 amps (usually you want one that handles a good bit more amps than you anticipate, so it isn't like to get very hot when working).

Note that I did a quick search and find that getting a converter that outputs exactly 14V won't be so easy. They seem to target 12, 15, and certain other DC voltages as common. You might have to go with one that has a certain output voltage range and a dial (potentiometer) on it to allow setting the voltage exactly. If all this adds too much learning curve for the moment, then maybe just go with your inverter.

Good luck.

[BobW9]

I couldn't resist browsing a bit, in between work. On Amazon I found the below, which puts out a steady 13.8V at max of 10A with high efficiency, though probably better if used at something like 5 A continuous would be my guess. If 13.8V at 5-6A is within the Samsung range for the 14V DC TV you have, then this might be a decent choice.

$19.99 "DC Automatic Buck Boost Converter DC 8V-40V to 13.8V 10A Step Down Up Voltage Regulator Waterproof Voltage Reducer for Golf Cart Club Car LED Strip Light"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089M ... 1YGR&psc=1