1997 Chinook Side Entry Build/Update

[Blewett]

We are semi new owners of a rare side entry 1997 Chinook. For the most part it is in very good shape minus some smallish things.

So I figured I would start a build thread of the repairs and modifications. First I want to say thanks to everybody who post builds, modifications and otherwise helped out! I have been lurking on here for a while while I was learning about Chinooks and looking for one.

The biggest issue we found was the handling. It handled horribly. Almost to the point of regretting my decision to purchase it. After a close inspection I discovered the front sway bar bushings were shot and almost non existent. The shocks were also worn out. I did confirm the steering linkages and other components were fairly new and in good shape.

I decided to bite the bullet and replace the front sway bar along with installing a rear sway bar and all new shocks.

While waiting for parts to arrive I removed the crappy and poorly installed security system. I also pulled out a bunch of other unused wires a previous owner had installed. While at it I also pulled all of the old cable tv stuff out. I ended up with a 5 gallon bucket full of wiring and electrical components. I actually got about $5 for it at the scrap yard. Since doing all that work I have not had any electrical issues on the camper. (I had a photo of the wiring I pulled out but don’t can’t find it now)

[Blewett]

I have worked on Econoline vans before but somehow forgot how cramped they are (thinking back I may have blacked it out of my memory). Due to poor access to the top of the shock tower and rusted bolts (and lack of patience) I ended up carefully cutting the front shocks off with a torch.
Old shock compared to new shock.

One of the old front shocks was completely shot and had no pressure behind it. The other front shock still had some resistance.

Shock

Here you can see the old front sway bar next to the new one. Note it is significantly beefier

Front Sway bar Comparison

Here is the rear sway bar.

Rear Sway bar

After installing everything, I took the camper out on some local roads and it felt much better. Still a little bit of floating feeling in the steering but I think I just need to tighten up the power steering box. The tires on the camper are wider than the stock tires and rub on the front sway bar at full turn. Not sure if I am going to leave it or put on a spacer.

[Blewett]

Also while crawling around under the camper I found the source of a really annoying rattle. Sounded a lot like a cymbal. The metal strap connecting the heat shield to the truck had sheered in half. This is between the exhaust and propane tank on the passenger side.

So I took it off and welded it back together. I carefully went through the rest of the chassis looking for any other loose things but didn’t find anything else loose. But I did find some more questionable wiring...

[68camaro]

Nice find, I plan to do some undercoating and will be making sure all is secure as well. Replacing my original leaf springs for me made huge difference in ride and rattles.

Upgrading my shocks and putting on Fox steering stabilizer helped a lot.

I plan to take out my TV and DVS but first want to have red oak doors made exactly like original cabinet doors so everything matches and flows.

Keep us updated. Your side entry is rare find. I wish I had permanent bed but for just me, rear entry works great.

[BobW9]

After installing everything, I took the camper out on some local roads and it felt much better. Still a little bit of floating feeling in the steering but I think I just need to tighten up the power steering box.

I have a 2000 Concourse (Ford E350) and it had loose steering from the time I purchased it in 2013. Over the next few years, I went to multiple shops, had it tightened up, and it was a little better each time for a while. I had never driven a van before and while it never felt as good steering as a car, various mechanics assured me it wasn't bad for one of these RV's. BUT

I was stopped at a gas station to air up before a trip (2017), turned the wheel a few times left and right while it was sitting in front of the air machine, thinking it felt funny. Suddenly it felt strange, and when I looked out the window, the tires were no longer turning when I turned the steering wheel. Had to have it towed (3 tries by auto service to get a tow truck that could tow it, after I explicitly told them about the rear overhang and it really needs a wrecker to do it properly).

Turned out the teeth (splines?) on the Pitman Arm and Steering Box had worn down to nothing (like, for real, gone). After getting a new arm and box, the steering has been as tight and easy to drive as any of my cars. Like brand-spanking-new nice to drive. Best $700 I ever spent. Wish I'd known when I first bought it, I'd have done it in a second - right after trying to tighten it that first time and it still not feeling great.

Interesting tidbit - I read somewhere while it was being fixed (Ford manual, maybe?) that Ford considers this to be wear parts, which should start to be checked out after the first 100,000 miles (or it might have been 125,000). Given that the Concourse is so heavy (though most of that is in the rear), I figure maybe it wears out sooner (or the previous owner did lots of turning in tight campsites, when the vehicle was not moving, as that would place the most stress on the steering).

[Blewett]

Nice find, I plan to do some undercoating and will be making sure all is secure as well. Replacing my original leaf springs for me made huge difference in ride and rattles.

Upgrading my shocks and putting on Fox steering stabilizer helped a lot.

I plan to take out my TV and DVS but first want to have red oak doors made exactly like original cabinet doors so everything matches and flows.

Keep us updated. Your side entry is rare find. I wish I had permanent bed but for just me, rear entry works great.

I just removed the flat screen. I use my computer for any tv that I watch. I plan on refinishing the cabinets some time. I may do the steering stabilizer next.

For my wife and I the permanent bed and separate dinette is really nice since it gives each of us some personal space. (Mainly I can get up early and work on the computer with out disturbing her too much).

[Blewett]

I have a 2000 Concourse (Ford E350) and it had loose steering from the time I purchased it in 2013. Over the next few years, I went to multiple shops, had it tightened up, and it was a little better each time for a while. I had never driven a van before and while it never felt as good steering as a car, various mechanics assured me it wasn't bad for one of these RV's. BUT

I was stopped at a gas station to air up before a trip (2017), turned the wheel a few times left and right while it was sitting in front of the air machine, thinking it felt funny. Suddenly it felt strange, and when I looked out the window, the tires were no longer turning when I turned the steering wheel. Had to have it towed (3 tries by auto service to get a tow truck that could tow it, after I explicitly told them about the rear overhang and it really needs a wrecker to do it properly).

Turned out the teeth (splines?) on the Pitman Arm and Steering Box had worn down to nothing (like, for real, gone). After getting a new arm and box, the steering has been as tight and easy to drive as any of my cars. Like brand-spanking-new nice to drive. Best $700 I ever spent. Wish I'd known when I first bought it, I'd have done it in a second - right after trying to tighten it that first time and it still not feeling great.

Thanks for the insight.

So many mechanics just dismiss the handling of these vehicles. I have driven ambulances on E350 chassis and none have ever handled as bad as an RV. Including some ambulances from the early 2000's that were still in service. They may not be as heavy as our campers empty but with everything onboard I think they are close. And lord knows emergency vehicles do not live an easy life. So I firmly believe the handling difference comes down to a few parts that were skimped on by RV manufactures. There were E350 ambulance packages available and I believe the main difference were additional alternator and beefier sway bars including a rear sway bar. There also may have been extra fluid coolers.

I have been thinking of upgrading the power steering box as well. When I have some free time I will pull the pitman off and look at the splines. Regardless I will put a new steering box towards the top of the upgrade list. Did you go with OEM or aftermarket?

[BobW9]

The truck service shop replaced the parts for me, I don't see listed on their invoice if they used OEM or not. If it helps, the pricing they listed in 2017 for the parts were Steering Box $293 and Pitman Arm $139. Then labor was 2.5 hours.

They also did an alignment, but I don't recall if they had to do that as part of replacing the steering stuff, or it just happened to be needing a tweak.

[Blewett]

The truck service shop replaced the parts for me, I don't see listed on their invoice if they used OEM or not. If it helps, the pricing they listed in 2017 for the parts were Steering Box $293 and Pitman Arm $139. Then labor was 2.5 hours.

They also did an alignment, but I don't recall if they had to do that as part of replacing the steering stuff, or it just happened to be needing a tweak.

Thanks. I still need to take a look at it. Just started a new business and things went from 0 to 100 really fast.

[Blewett]

I did not take photos of them but I removed the old fan in the main compartment and installed a MaxxAir Deluxe fan. I had this fan on my previous campers and like that it has a built in rain shield. I also replaced the janky bathroom fan with a MaxxAir mini plus fan. Both of the fan designs are good but the quality is lacking. Though I have not found a better low profile fan.

Black Tank Mouse Hole

We took the camper on a short camping trip and had mouse problems. After a night of hearing mouse traps go off I decided it was time to fix the hole around the black tank. (I read about this problem somewhere on this forum but cant remember where). Again I took photos but cant find them - sorry. I removed the toilet and flange and discovered a 12"x12" hole cut through the floor with the black tank directly below it. There was roughly 1" of space between the black tank and the floor. I used a lot of sika flex (what I had on hand) and sealed the hole up.

In hind site it would have been 10x easier to remove the sewer hose holder and reach in through that hole. Removing the toilet was a huge pain and involved replacing the flange and pvc pipe.

We decided to do a long trip up to Canada and the rush was on to get all the small projects done.

I replaced the fogged up head lights with new ones from Vantage Optics and am blown away with how much better they are. I highly recommend them.