I meant to add something on the spark plug potential issue. On my camper van, it had around 95k on it when I bought it, and the original spark plugs (I think they were recommended to be changed at 100k). So, not long into my ownership, it was time for the dreaded job! I lucked into a good, patient mechanic who had done them before. What he did was first remove half the engine (well, it seems like it anyway... vans!), and then get all the dirt out of the spark plug "wells" before opening anything up. Then he sprayed them with Kroil and let them sit overnight. Then he was very gentle with them and they all came out just fine. New ones were carefully installed and torqued to spec, and I went on down the road. I sold the van at around 140k, but a couple of years later and getting up toward 200k it was still purring happily for the new owner (then he sold it and I lost track of it). That was with the 5.4 V-8 Triton, but it's the same potential issue as the 6.8 V-10 Triton.
On my Chinook, I had them changed right away when I bought it even though it only had 49k. I just figured I wouldn't let them sit in there any longer, time-wise. Again all went well. So there are potential problems to be sure, but they don't happen every time, and they are repairable with inserts if they do.
New to Chinook
Re: New to Chinook
1999 Concourse
Re: New to Chinook
Looking on Craigslist today reminded me to give the obligatory warning about ad scams.
It should go without saying that you should never send money sight unseen (especially via Western Union), or believe offers of, or even emails from, purported escrow services, and so forth.
If you see something too good to be true, it usually is. At the least, check other states to see if the same ad shows up all over the country, which is a scam sign. Also scams usually have weird grammatical errors, fail to mention vehicle mileage, and often say texts only. (They can't communicate by voice because their bad English and lack of vehicle knowledge would help give them away. Run away from any proposed deal that wants to be done without voice and/or you ever seeing the item in person.)
Putting pieces of even seemingly valid email responses into Google will sometimes surprisingly come back with a match with previously reported scams.
My favorite Chinook scam ads are the ones which mention bogus features such as a private bedroom or two slides... in a Concourse! Yeah. Sure thing, buddy.
The worst ones are those that are almost believable the first time you see them. Like that common fake ad for a 2004 Premier with odd amounts like $13872. (Changing the amount in the title by tiny amounts helps them post multiple ads without triggering automatic ad rejections.)
It should go without saying that you should never send money sight unseen (especially via Western Union), or believe offers of, or even emails from, purported escrow services, and so forth.
If you see something too good to be true, it usually is. At the least, check other states to see if the same ad shows up all over the country, which is a scam sign. Also scams usually have weird grammatical errors, fail to mention vehicle mileage, and often say texts only. (They can't communicate by voice because their bad English and lack of vehicle knowledge would help give them away. Run away from any proposed deal that wants to be done without voice and/or you ever seeing the item in person.)
Putting pieces of even seemingly valid email responses into Google will sometimes surprisingly come back with a match with previously reported scams.
My favorite Chinook scam ads are the ones which mention bogus features such as a private bedroom or two slides... in a Concourse! Yeah. Sure thing, buddy.
The worst ones are those that are almost believable the first time you see them. Like that common fake ad for a 2004 Premier with odd amounts like $13872. (Changing the amount in the title by tiny amounts helps them post multiple ads without triggering automatic ad rejections.)
1994 Concourse dinette, Ford 7.5L (460 V8)
Re: New to Chinook
kdarling, Thanks for the advice. I am aware of these scams. It is surprising however that so many people seem to be so gullible as to fall for them. There is one out there now, it's the $13,000 I think you are referring to. Some cities have removed it. I guess it validates P.T. Barnum's quote.
Re: New to Chinook
Hey everyone two new questions. First, it seems I have read somewhere (can't find it again) about a change in the refrigerator pan in 2002. It has a drain or something? Anyone know anything about this issue, or is it an issue at all? Second, with the Baja sport, I know that it's a two wheel Baja but does it just use 4x4 springs on the two wheel drive, or it there more to it than that? Any information about this rig? I know they would be uber rare I have seen on this site some have lifted their 2x4's.
I have seen on this site some have lifted their 2x4's.Re: New to Chinook
Re:scams. I'm very internet savvy, but even I got strung along a bit more than usual on one last year because they used what looked just like the email of a high profile businessman located in the same city. Very clever of them. Here's the cautionary story: viewtopic.php?f=11&t=517&p=3875#p3875
Re: Sport. From various old ads it seems that, yep, apparently the Sport used the same 4x4 suspension as the Baja. Everything was the same except for the lack of actual four wheel drive.
---
Btw, ran across some old internet discussion about that very custom Sport currently on eBay. Seems that it originally had ten seats in it similar to the single remaining seat in there now, although they were all orange and blue like the outside paint job... those being the colors for Boise State University.
So perhaps either a team or visitor transport. Or maybe it belonged to a rich alumni who liked to take his friends to games. Hmm. The high mileage probably indicates more likely being a school transport.
In any case, it was reportedly sold last October for $8500 (~$10K after fees) at an auction, to someone who then remodeled the inside to how it looks now. Edit: aha, it just went on eBay for $18,200.
Re: Sport. From various old ads it seems that, yep, apparently the Sport used the same 4x4 suspension as the Baja. Everything was the same except for the lack of actual four wheel drive.
---
Btw, ran across some old internet discussion about that very custom Sport currently on eBay. Seems that it originally had ten seats in it similar to the single remaining seat in there now, although they were all orange and blue like the outside paint job... those being the colors for Boise State University.
So perhaps either a team or visitor transport. Or maybe it belonged to a rich alumni who liked to take his friends to games. Hmm. The high mileage probably indicates more likely being a school transport.
In any case, it was reportedly sold last October for $8500 (~$10K after fees) at an auction, to someone who then remodeled the inside to how it looks now. Edit: aha, it just went on eBay for $18,200.
Last edited by kdarling on April 9th, 2017, 8:03 am, edited 1 time in total.
1994 Concourse dinette, Ford 7.5L (460 V8)
Re: New to Chinook
Yeah, too bad they gutted the inside...would love to have a Baja...or a sport for that matter...for that matter a Concourse The search continues. BTW anyone live close to K.C.?
The search continues. BTW anyone live close to K.C.?Re: New to Chinook
Yeah, that Sport was really unique because it had a full length window on the passenger side, and no kitchen.
Btw, what sites are you searching? We should make a list of good places to look.
I gotta say, this year has been very dry when it comes to deals. Whereas last summer I could've gotten a dozen different 1997+ Concourses and even Destinys (!) for $18k-$22k. And eBay was full of "my uncle died, buy his now for $16k" auctions.
Alas, I did not know at the time what great deals they were. Descriptions like non-starting generators put me off, and yet such are very common with units that sit around not being exercised. Now I know to look for good bones and not worry about things that can be fairly easily fixed.
Well, good weather today for the first time in weeks, so I'm going outside by myself to put a big Hellwig front anti-sway bar on in place of the stock one, and perhaps putting Bilstein shocks on the rear. Wish me luck
Btw, what sites are you searching? We should make a list of good places to look.
I gotta say, this year has been very dry when it comes to deals. Whereas last summer I could've gotten a dozen different 1997+ Concourses and even Destinys (!) for $18k-$22k. And eBay was full of "my uncle died, buy his now for $16k" auctions.
Alas, I did not know at the time what great deals they were. Descriptions like non-starting generators put me off, and yet such are very common with units that sit around not being exercised. Now I know to look for good bones and not worry about things that can be fairly easily fixed.
Well, good weather today for the first time in weeks, so I'm going outside by myself to put a big Hellwig front anti-sway bar on in place of the stock one, and perhaps putting Bilstein shocks on the rear. Wish me luck
1994 Concourse dinette, Ford 7.5L (460 V8)
Re: New to Chinook
Just keep thinking of how (much more) fun it's going to be to drive when you're done!
1999 Concourse
Re: New to Chinook
I appreciate the post on the spark plug threads,Blue....I believe I. Was the one that posted about the pan under the fridge.....THe story is as follow:When I got my rig I had the common issue of swelling of the fiberboard under the cabinet (I cut out that section making a seam at the skinny Fridge sides,replaced with oak plywood stained to match)I posted on the other forum that the original owner of my rig thought it was from fridge defrosting (not the leak from the outside fridge vent opening)Anyway I lamented TRailWagons not addressing a known defect.Dave the moderator over at Yahoo replied that on "later rigs Trailwagons did place a waterproof pan and drain below the fridge." That is the extent of my "hearsay" knowledge on this subject.Since I own a 2001 and changes did occur in the 2002-2003 years I assume (not knowing) that perhaps this was a design upgrade at that time....I say "hearsay",but qualify that by saying Dave at Yahoo I consider a knowledgeable source.Hope that helps Rooney. 2001 Premier
Re: New to Chinook
Basically, the issue is that, of course, the absorption fridges are burning a flame in the back, and so they need a "chimney" both to provide combustion air (and cooling air), and to exhaust the byproducts (and heat in general).
The roof vent, by design, is pretty well able to repel any water (I have mine open and exposed to the interior since I removed my absorption fridge, and have never seen any water come in). However the lower wall vent is not so fortunate. I'd say it's a leak potential in any rig, and slightly moreso on the Chinook with the slightly angled wall in that area.
Because the platform/shelf that the fridge sits on is below the lower vent by design, any water that comes in can't drain back out the vent, because it's already below the vent. On my era rig, the fridge platform is plywood, and then pieces of 1/8" wallboard (matching the material used for the stove and sink walls) were attached to fit tightly to the walls and "floor" to effect the necessary seal from the living space (due to aforementioned "fire" necessary for the absorption fridge burner). But again, if any water did make its way in the lower vent, it landed on this flat, wooden floor. Hmm, what could possibly go wrong?
Sounds like in later years, they made a pan to go on the platform, and then a purpose-made drain. That makes sense. If I had been going to keep an absorption fridge, I would likely have done something to the same effect. Fiberglass would work well, but there are probably other ways (maybe some of the rubber material that's used as a base layer for custom shower pans? It's never a huge volume of water, but just that even a minimal amount has to have somewhere to go.
Mine had no signs of leakage, but that's likely because it was stored indoors and not often used (before my time). I knew I'd be removing the absorption refrigerator, and although a compressor refrigerator does need some ventilation, it's not nearly as much, and there are no combustion byproducts since there is no combustion (it's all electrical, no flame, more like a home fridge although in my case DC powered). The vents can even be fully interior (you gain a little heat in summer, but then you gain a little heat in winter too -- it's not a huge amount either way).
For me, I wouldn't decide on a Chinook based on just that, although if all else was equal, of course I'd take the pan if I were planning on keeping the absorption refrigerator.
Some folks have just run a little "wall" of caulking across that "floor" piece to keep water from running in (it is a small amount). Another option, which I did, is to make a diverter that is attached to the removable vent grille. If you picture one of those sloped "to do" paper holders that you can put on the wall in an office, it was like that. Basically directed water coming in to drain out the lowest part of the vent. I copied the idea from something I had seen online. It might possible cool the refrigerator element a bit less (at that point in time I was no longer using the absorption refrigerator, but had not taken out the vent yet). If I had still been running the stock refrigerator, I would have taken some before and after readings with an IR thermometer or maybe the FLIR phone attachment.
A friend with a similar setup but not a Chinook has never had a leak. But his vent is a different style - metal with fine louvers - and the wall of his coach is 100% vertical. His also has no pan or good way to drain, but you can see by looking at the inside that water hasn't ever been in there. 'course I kinda like the sleek walls of the Chinook, but square is always easier.
The roof vent, by design, is pretty well able to repel any water (I have mine open and exposed to the interior since I removed my absorption fridge, and have never seen any water come in). However the lower wall vent is not so fortunate. I'd say it's a leak potential in any rig, and slightly moreso on the Chinook with the slightly angled wall in that area.
Because the platform/shelf that the fridge sits on is below the lower vent by design, any water that comes in can't drain back out the vent, because it's already below the vent. On my era rig, the fridge platform is plywood, and then pieces of 1/8" wallboard (matching the material used for the stove and sink walls) were attached to fit tightly to the walls and "floor" to effect the necessary seal from the living space (due to aforementioned "fire" necessary for the absorption fridge burner). But again, if any water did make its way in the lower vent, it landed on this flat, wooden floor. Hmm, what could possibly go wrong?
Sounds like in later years, they made a pan to go on the platform, and then a purpose-made drain. That makes sense. If I had been going to keep an absorption fridge, I would likely have done something to the same effect. Fiberglass would work well, but there are probably other ways (maybe some of the rubber material that's used as a base layer for custom shower pans? It's never a huge volume of water, but just that even a minimal amount has to have somewhere to go.
Mine had no signs of leakage, but that's likely because it was stored indoors and not often used (before my time). I knew I'd be removing the absorption refrigerator, and although a compressor refrigerator does need some ventilation, it's not nearly as much, and there are no combustion byproducts since there is no combustion (it's all electrical, no flame, more like a home fridge although in my case DC powered). The vents can even be fully interior (you gain a little heat in summer, but then you gain a little heat in winter too -- it's not a huge amount either way).
For me, I wouldn't decide on a Chinook based on just that, although if all else was equal, of course I'd take the pan if I were planning on keeping the absorption refrigerator.
Some folks have just run a little "wall" of caulking across that "floor" piece to keep water from running in (it is a small amount). Another option, which I did, is to make a diverter that is attached to the removable vent grille. If you picture one of those sloped "to do" paper holders that you can put on the wall in an office, it was like that. Basically directed water coming in to drain out the lowest part of the vent. I copied the idea from something I had seen online. It might possible cool the refrigerator element a bit less (at that point in time I was no longer using the absorption refrigerator, but had not taken out the vent yet). If I had still been running the stock refrigerator, I would have taken some before and after readings with an IR thermometer or maybe the FLIR phone attachment.
A friend with a similar setup but not a Chinook has never had a leak. But his vent is a different style - metal with fine louvers - and the wall of his coach is 100% vertical. His also has no pan or good way to drain, but you can see by looking at the inside that water hasn't ever been in there. 'course I kinda like the sleek walls of the Chinook, but square is always easier.
1999 Concourse