Anyone upgraded brakes?
Re: Antone upgraded brakes?
I went with PowerStop brakes, noticeable difference but old brakes in front were way passed needing to be replaced.
2001 Concourse XL Lounge model, 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis.
Re: Antone upgraded brakes?
In 2014 I had an entire "take off" 2014 E-350 front axle put on. Main reason was for the brakes. The Chinook felt under-braked from the first time I drove it (brakes were in fine condition, just kinda small). The brakes on the 2014 design were much beefier (as were other front end parts, which I didn't mind either). (I believe this would hold true from around 2008 onward.)
From the first minute I drove it with the new brakes I was thrilled. Fantastic upgrade. Probably new take-off front ends aren't so easy to find now, but you can still get just the brake parts from Ford. Highly recommended.
From the first minute I drove it with the new brakes I was thrilled. Fantastic upgrade. Probably new take-off front ends aren't so easy to find now, but you can still get just the brake parts from Ford. Highly recommended.
1999 Concourse
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eporter123
- **Forum Contributor**
- Posts: 184
- Joined: April 2nd, 2018, 9:50 am
Re: Antone upgraded brakes?
Blue, any ballpark idea as to what that cost in 2014?
I just realized Quadvan is 1 (ONE) mile from where I work. Maybe they have something leftover...
Lower on my list for the Chinook, but maybe if the price is right. I wish I could've done that back when I had the whole front end rebuilt & new brake calipers put on my old ambo.
The brake/caliper/hub upgrade kit looks good, too.
I just realized Quadvan is 1 (ONE) mile from where I work. Maybe they have something leftover...
Lower on my list for the Chinook, but maybe if the price is right. I wish I could've done that back when I had the whole front end rebuilt & new brake calipers put on my old ambo.
The brake/caliper/hub upgrade kit looks good, too.
Former owner of a 2000 Chinook Premier, V-10, with no Interior...
Re: Antone upgraded brakes?
68Camaro...
Did you stick with E350 stuff and just go with the PowerStop parts? Did you just order 2001 parts or did you upgrade to larger/newer hardware?
Many thanks...Dano
"Jewels" - '02 Chinook Concourse XL
Re: Antone upgraded brakes?
eporter,
It was around $1000 (maybe $9xx?). That was in and out the door. I thought it was a great deal because it was not only the fantastic (bigger) brakes, but all the updated suspension from 2008-up, all new hubs/bearings/ball joints/tie rods/etc. etc. Basically, I kept my springs and wheels. I didn't *need* most of those other things yet, but at ~55k it was nice to re-set that clock to Zero. I was also amazed at the difference in the parts (sturdier) comparing them to my pre-2008 originals.
I would do it again without blinking an eye. Also, Quadvan's work was impeccable. BTW, they did some of the conversion work on the Chinook Bajas, back in the day (there were photos of them in the waiting room).
BTW, you cannot keep your older front anti-sway bar. The newer Ford bar the same diameter but the attachments are all different. What I did was just take that opportunity to go to the bigger Roadmaster bar while I was there (that was a separate cost). No regrets on that either.
Lastly, you do have to get a front-end alignment after that (he doesn't have an alignment facility in his shop).
It was around $1000 (maybe $9xx?). That was in and out the door. I thought it was a great deal because it was not only the fantastic (bigger) brakes, but all the updated suspension from 2008-up, all new hubs/bearings/ball joints/tie rods/etc. etc. Basically, I kept my springs and wheels. I didn't *need* most of those other things yet, but at ~55k it was nice to re-set that clock to Zero. I was also amazed at the difference in the parts (sturdier) comparing them to my pre-2008 originals.
I would do it again without blinking an eye. Also, Quadvan's work was impeccable. BTW, they did some of the conversion work on the Chinook Bajas, back in the day (there were photos of them in the waiting room).
BTW, you cannot keep your older front anti-sway bar. The newer Ford bar the same diameter but the attachments are all different. What I did was just take that opportunity to go to the bigger Roadmaster bar while I was there (that was a separate cost). No regrets on that either.
Lastly, you do have to get a front-end alignment after that (he doesn't have an alignment facility in his shop).
1999 Concourse
Re: Antone upgraded brakes?
I just went with the PowerStop brakes for the e350, (Power Stop Z36 Truck & Tow Brake Kits - $560.00). It seems like big improvement for the little I tested it but old brakes where shot when I bought rig. Its been getting other work done since they were installed so haven't thoroughly tested yet. Everything should be done by Friday so I can really test this weekend.
2001 Concourse XL Lounge model, 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis.
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eporter123
- **Forum Contributor**
- Posts: 184
- Joined: April 2nd, 2018, 9:50 am
Re: Antone upgraded brakes?
Wow for under 1k that’s a deal. One mans trash kinda situation if all you do is 4x4 conversions...!
I’ll call them soon and see if they have anything, or if I can get on the waiting list for some kind of newer 2WD front end that’s getting upgraded.
68camaro that kit looks good, too. Nice to have options.
I’ll call them soon and see if they have anything, or if I can get on the waiting list for some kind of newer 2WD front end that’s getting upgraded.
68camaro that kit looks good, too. Nice to have options.
Former owner of a 2000 Chinook Premier, V-10, with no Interior...
-
eporter123
- **Forum Contributor**
- Posts: 184
- Joined: April 2nd, 2018, 9:50 am
Re: Antone upgraded brakes?
Just got off the phone with John at Quadvan. Super helpful guy, talked my ear off about all the improvements in the 2008+ front ends. Ford's making the E350 cutaways into 2025, so there are still plenty of front ends available...
So, for $500 you get a whole, new, 0 mile 2018 Ford E350 front end, brakes, hubs, steering, radius arms, etc. Comes w/ Ford shocks but no springs. He'll strap it all on a pallet and ship it to you via truck freight. John has new springs in stock. Also has the new swaybar and end links for a good price (~$150).
He can help with small lift stuff, he recommended Maxx Lift, (which now appears to be FordPartsOne) for a 2" leveling kit.
https://fordpartsone.com/products/e250- ... kit-2-inch
He recommended the front 2" kit, now it appears they package it with rear blocks, but say *Not suitable for use on RV/Motorhome or Ambulance Packaged Equipped Applications" probably due to dually issues?
Quadvan is super backed up with 4x4 conversions, but if you can leave the van for a few weeks they'll work it in. There's a spring shop down the road that can recurve the stock springs & rebuild the spring pack with added leaves for a custom lift. ~$900.
I think I'll have him do the front end work, and then maybe just add the 2" blocks in the rear for now. I've read on here you can't use blocks with the e350 dually axle? John mentioned something about using them though. Maybe 2" works but no taller than that? Once I get the back all built out, battery bank put in, water tanks, etc, etc, I can have custom springs made & installed for that weight. Hate to spend money twice on the rear suspension work, but at the slooow pace I'm moving on this thing, it might be best. Might be hard driving the thing around with the front lifted up...
It all adds up, but having all those new parts put on and the RV sitting 2" higher should be under $2k. Seems like a deal when you count in the brand new brakes/bearings/everything up front. Apparently the handling is much improved as well.
Ballpark costs:
$500-Front end takeoff
$600-Front end install
$290 2" leveling Kit
$150 Swaybar & endlinks
$200 (?) Front Coils
$200 (?) Rear block install
So, for $500 you get a whole, new, 0 mile 2018 Ford E350 front end, brakes, hubs, steering, radius arms, etc. Comes w/ Ford shocks but no springs. He'll strap it all on a pallet and ship it to you via truck freight. John has new springs in stock. Also has the new swaybar and end links for a good price (~$150).
He can help with small lift stuff, he recommended Maxx Lift, (which now appears to be FordPartsOne) for a 2" leveling kit.
https://fordpartsone.com/products/e250- ... kit-2-inch
He recommended the front 2" kit, now it appears they package it with rear blocks, but say *Not suitable for use on RV/Motorhome or Ambulance Packaged Equipped Applications" probably due to dually issues?
Quadvan is super backed up with 4x4 conversions, but if you can leave the van for a few weeks they'll work it in. There's a spring shop down the road that can recurve the stock springs & rebuild the spring pack with added leaves for a custom lift. ~$900.
I think I'll have him do the front end work, and then maybe just add the 2" blocks in the rear for now. I've read on here you can't use blocks with the e350 dually axle? John mentioned something about using them though. Maybe 2" works but no taller than that? Once I get the back all built out, battery bank put in, water tanks, etc, etc, I can have custom springs made & installed for that weight. Hate to spend money twice on the rear suspension work, but at the slooow pace I'm moving on this thing, it might be best. Might be hard driving the thing around with the front lifted up...
It all adds up, but having all those new parts put on and the RV sitting 2" higher should be under $2k. Seems like a deal when you count in the brand new brakes/bearings/everything up front. Apparently the handling is much improved as well.
Ballpark costs:
$500-Front end takeoff
$600-Front end install
$290 2" leveling Kit
$150 Swaybar & endlinks
$200 (?) Front Coils
$200 (?) Rear block install
Former owner of a 2000 Chinook Premier, V-10, with no Interior...
Re: Antone upgraded brakes?
Sweet! I wasn't sure if new take-offs would still be available.
Like you, I thought it was a screaming bargain. Wait till you see all the new parts (brakes and suspension) side-by-side with the originals.... very confidence inspiring. Plus you basically reset your entire front end to zero miles.
Only things I did differently is that I had already put on new Koni FSD shocks, so I kept those; and I added a Roadmaster front bar instead of the stock/new Ford one. I did try it with the Ford one while at his shop, then did a back to back test run with the Roadmaster bar. I liked the Roadmaster one better, so went with that (it's thicker).
BTW a that time I also went with a Roadmaster bar in the rear (had Quadvan install it while I was there), but that just made the back end *way* too jumpy and harsh (though the cornering was nice). He put on various combos for me to try, which was really cool. In the end I went with the Roadmaster front bar, and an E-450 junkyard rear bar (which is about halfway between the original "no-rear-bar" and the Roadmaster bar. That kept most of the good handling without the hoppy rear. Ahhh, happy Chinook and happy Driver
If you were real heavy on the rear maybe the rear Roadmaster bar would be fine (?). My rear axle runs about 6300# when I'm not towing anything, and about 7,000# if I'm towing and loaded for bear, just for reference (our gross rear axle weight rating is 7,500#). A friend with an E-450 running about 10,000# on just the rear axle was fine with the Roadmaster bars on both ends.
Like you, I thought it was a screaming bargain. Wait till you see all the new parts (brakes and suspension) side-by-side with the originals.... very confidence inspiring. Plus you basically reset your entire front end to zero miles.
Only things I did differently is that I had already put on new Koni FSD shocks, so I kept those; and I added a Roadmaster front bar instead of the stock/new Ford one. I did try it with the Ford one while at his shop, then did a back to back test run with the Roadmaster bar. I liked the Roadmaster one better, so went with that (it's thicker).
BTW a that time I also went with a Roadmaster bar in the rear (had Quadvan install it while I was there), but that just made the back end *way* too jumpy and harsh (though the cornering was nice). He put on various combos for me to try, which was really cool. In the end I went with the Roadmaster front bar, and an E-450 junkyard rear bar (which is about halfway between the original "no-rear-bar" and the Roadmaster bar. That kept most of the good handling without the hoppy rear. Ahhh, happy Chinook and happy Driver
If you were real heavy on the rear maybe the rear Roadmaster bar would be fine (?). My rear axle runs about 6300# when I'm not towing anything, and about 7,000# if I'm towing and loaded for bear, just for reference (our gross rear axle weight rating is 7,500#). A friend with an E-450 running about 10,000# on just the rear axle was fine with the Roadmaster bars on both ends.
1999 Concourse