Early first generation 18+ exterior dimensions? (edited)
Posted: November 16th, 2017, 12:14 pm
Can anybody provide exact height dimensions for the first generation (early 70's) 18+ models? I've been looking for factory dimension spec info, and can't find anything for the first generation models - this info is critical to whether I can fit a Chinook in the only RV space I have available - a not quite rectangular pad next to my garage.
The pad is 25' long, so that's not an issue, but the space is height-limited by a roof overhang and gutter, and width-limited by a fence on the property line. The rear of the pad has the least space - the narrowest dimension (garage wall to fence) is barely adequate at 8'5"; minimum vertical clearance in the same area is 8'5" (bottom of the gutter to the pad at the lower edge of the roof overhang, 2'6" out from the wall). From those points, the pad slopes slightly away from the house and toward the street - at the front of the pad, vertical clearance increases to 8'7"
Since the Chinook will need to be as close to the outer wall of the garage as possible, I need to determine whether it will fit under that roof overhang and gutter. From what info I have been able to dig up, the late 90's versions appear to have a total height of about 9'4" without roof ac, but I don't know if that's consistent with the earlier models.
The dimensions I need are specific to an early (pre 76) 1st gen 18+: a) the height from the ground to the step in the camper roof at two points - the right rear corner, and the left front side directly above the rear edge of the driver's side door; b) the width of the step in the camper roof from the vertical side of the camper body to the vertical side of the step; and c) the height of the vertical side of the step from the flat portion of the step to the main roof.
On an early unit with the vent hood cap on the main part of the roof, it's possible that the height difference between the top of the step and the top surface of the roof could be enough to provide some additional clearance. If the distance from the ground to that initial step is short enough for the edge of the roof to clear the bottom of the gutter (and the step is wide enough to get close enough to the wall to squeeze into that space) the rail could be removed and the holes fiberglassed closed.
Thanks in advance for the assistance - whether there's adequate space to squeeze into that area will determine whether I get on a plane to go look into purchasing a Chinook that's several hundred miles away.
The pad is 25' long, so that's not an issue, but the space is height-limited by a roof overhang and gutter, and width-limited by a fence on the property line. The rear of the pad has the least space - the narrowest dimension (garage wall to fence) is barely adequate at 8'5"; minimum vertical clearance in the same area is 8'5" (bottom of the gutter to the pad at the lower edge of the roof overhang, 2'6" out from the wall). From those points, the pad slopes slightly away from the house and toward the street - at the front of the pad, vertical clearance increases to 8'7"
Since the Chinook will need to be as close to the outer wall of the garage as possible, I need to determine whether it will fit under that roof overhang and gutter. From what info I have been able to dig up, the late 90's versions appear to have a total height of about 9'4" without roof ac, but I don't know if that's consistent with the earlier models.
The dimensions I need are specific to an early (pre 76) 1st gen 18+: a) the height from the ground to the step in the camper roof at two points - the right rear corner, and the left front side directly above the rear edge of the driver's side door; b) the width of the step in the camper roof from the vertical side of the camper body to the vertical side of the step; and c) the height of the vertical side of the step from the flat portion of the step to the main roof.
On an early unit with the vent hood cap on the main part of the roof, it's possible that the height difference between the top of the step and the top surface of the roof could be enough to provide some additional clearance. If the distance from the ground to that initial step is short enough for the edge of the roof to clear the bottom of the gutter (and the step is wide enough to get close enough to the wall to squeeze into that space) the rail could be removed and the holes fiberglassed closed.
Thanks in advance for the assistance - whether there's adequate space to squeeze into that area will determine whether I get on a plane to go look into purchasing a Chinook that's several hundred miles away.