Full solar system install with pictures, tears and all :)

[HoosierB]

[Dano]

Okay I WAS up to something!!!

I had to test fit my new TV bracket as it just arrived! The old piece of plywood the previous owner used served as a fast mounting surface. I was trying to get the old 19” TV mounted so it could sit there in place, in an always mounted kind of thing. I was trying to cram a 32” TV in there but it won’t open because the screen hits the upper cabinet when you try to extend it out and unfold the bracket

Then, I got silly and decided that if I could just make a quick mount/disconnect bracket, I can just leave the bracket exposed and store the TV above the front headspace or in my bed storage areas. I had thought in a previous post I would hang the TV but this bracket extends 24” towards you and I liked that bringing the TV forward, effectively “enlarging” the screen.

Then I thought if you are going to store the TV above your head, why are only going with a 32”?

The wide rectangular plate and vertical bars will remain on the TV and will have quick connects to attach it to the mount. I like the idea of not having a big TV bouncing around while I drive, more secure up top.

This photo shows the first installation. Eventually, it will be moved over to left so the cabinet door to the right open when no TV is in place.
Second photo shows the mount extending right into the middle of the aisle...I like it so far....but it could be BETTER!

[Dano]

BOOOOM!!

40” of LED flat screen joy!!

It sits centered between the upper cabinets and on that angle extends out about 18". The diagonal run costs you about 8" of extension but the size kind of make sup for it!
I made this cardboard cut out to see if the dimensions will fit into the hole. Like my previous post, you slide the narrower end in first, push it towards the back and then rotate it to fit through the hole. Sitting on one of my beds looking at this thing is like sitting in a friggin’ drive-in theater! Do we all remember those?

The whole TV when mounted swings to the side so you still have full access to the flip up compartment and pushes flat against that door when you go to sleep. You can leave it up until you are ready to hit the road and it's pretty much out of the way.

So now, I need to take careful measurements because Best Buy in the States has 40”, LED 1080P Smart TV’s for $150 bucks! Same thing here is about $350! Luckily we are close to the border and I can order one and go pick it up.

So yeah, I kind of got sidetracked today

[Dano]

Well, greedy me...According to one product review site, a 32” LED TV uses about 18 watts of energy. Moving up to a 40” LED increases that energy use to 31 watts.
How does this translate to battery consumption when boondocking? For instance, If I had 105 amp hours worth of battery, how many hours could you watch a 32" LED TV that consumed 18W of power before getting down to say, 50%?

I found a calculator but aren't sure if I'm doing this right...It says consuming 45 watts using 110V power equals .4091 watts. If I had 105 amp hour batteries, doesn't that mean I could watch this thing an awful long time?

[chin_k]

OK, Dano, you just cross a line there! This thread is meant for your solar install, and it is bad if you hijack your own thread! Your TV mounting info deserts its very own thread. I don't think Manitou charges us by how many separate threads we starts, so don't be shy

[Blue~Go]

I understand Dano's view, since cutting the roof is a pretty significant thing to do with the rig, and we have to worry about leak and figure out how to seal each hole off. I would prefer not to add more hole to the rig whenever possible, if we can get away with it with a reasonable solution.

I hear you, but that original roof connector is not confidence inspiring. I got a good look at mine when I removed it. I was surprised it had not leaked already (but then my Concourse was kept indoors by the previous owner). So I'd at least want to replace it with a proper gland, and at that point, there is less to be gained by re-using the old hole, IMO (plus who knows what's going on with that original 12AWG that runs between the roof layers - it's not something that can be checked really).

I think filling a disused hole with thickened epoxy and/or glassing over it is within most people's skill sets (well, people who would be installing panels and etc), and at that point there would never be any leaks - that area would be better than the original polyester construction. After all, people patch holes in the bottom of boats the same way. What I find to be a challenge is getting a perfect gelcoat finish. But I don't know that that's necessary on the roof and under solar panels. (I wouldn't consider it to be.)

Dano: Yes, the leads from solar panels are nearly always 12 AWG. That's a pity. But at least they are only two feet long. It's all about the length vs. the number of amps going through vs. the voltage they are at. You can get away with the 12 AWG leads because they are so short.

Anyway, it sounds like you have a plan and are comfortable with it. I will try not to instigate.

[Dano]

Instigate away Blue, we all benefit from challenging each other to be better. For the moment, since I'm still a foot deep in the snow and my original panel is covering the gland, we'll agree to check it thoroughly when I get it off, decision pending on anything after that.

Chin; my apologies. I got stoned on big screen goodness and got de-railed, back to the solar! (Well, I'm going to buy a TV today behind your back )

So, next in line, in order to get access to the side cover that hides our wiring, I need to take the interior out...AGAIN! Wish me luck!

Pics shortly....

[HoosierB]

OK, Dano, you just cross a line there! This thread is meant for your solar install, and it is bad if you hijack your own thread! Your TV mounting info deserts its very own thread. I don't think Manitou charges us by how many separate threads we starts, so don't be shy

Oh, it's a TV?... I thought Dano was doing a mock up for an "inside installation" of his 100W panel ....

[Dano]

Hold on a second, you're saying the panel goes on the OUTSIDE!!??

[chin_k]

Actually, I think the best place for the solar panels is under the chassis, right next to the drive shift. Plenty of space, and actually improve the aerodynamic by provide a smoother bottom.